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post #1 of 3 Old 09-12-2013, 10:01 AM Thread Starter
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Brake issue! help thanks

so i have a 99.5 7.3, my front brake calipers were leaking so i did new pads and calipers, before and after i replaced them i had a rubbing/growling sound coming from my front left tire, when i hand turned the assembly it would get hung up in one section and then free up with a little extra force. The sound gets worse the hard i stop. My dad thinks its a wheel bearing, could this be just a warped rotor? Also if it is the wheel bearing, i cant seem to understand after searching if it requires i replace the entire hub assy or can the bearing be replaced, huge price difference. i have found a few tutorials, but most of them are ball joint replacements, they dont highlight the actual process, if anyone has this info as well thatd be good! thanks ahead
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post #2 of 3 Old 09-12-2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by awdtsi98 View Post
so i have a 99.5 7.3, my front brake calipers were leaking so i did new pads and calipers, before and after i replaced them i had a rubbing/growling sound coming from my front left tire, when i hand turned the assembly it would get hung up in one section and then free up with a little extra force. The sound gets worse the hard i stop. My dad thinks its a wheel bearing, could this be just a warped rotor? Also if it is the wheel bearing, i cant seem to understand after searching if it requires i replace the entire hub assy or can the bearing be replaced, huge price difference. i have found a few tutorials, but most of them are ball joint replacements, they dont highlight the actual process, if anyone has this info as well thatd be good! thanks ahead
You can just replace the bearing. Ford will tell you it cant but they just want to make money on you, The part number is B2110 its like 9 bucks at advanced auto. I just did this last weekend

To get to it you have to pull the brakes off then the rotor, then take the hub apart, thats pretty self explanatory as you do it, just make sure to pay attention how it goes back together. Then theres 4 bolts on the back of the knuckle that hold the hub on. Once those are off just start pulling the hub off. It will be on there good just work your way around it and it will start to come off.

The bearing your replacing is right on the backside of the hub. You need a bearing puller or just use a screw driver on the back side and slowly tap it out working your way around the bearing so you dont deform the bore. Then grease up the new bearing real good and put it back into the hub and i used a block of wood to carefully tap it back into place and then use the old bearing on top of new and the wood to tap it in the last quarter inch so it seats at the bottom of the bore.

Installation is the reverse and then you should be good theres another bearing in the hub itself but usually that one doesnt go bad often but its possible. Heres a link to a write up Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page

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With the issues fixed a 6.0 can run circles around a 7.3.
2000 F-350 7.3L ZF6
Standard 7.3 mods
SCT tuned
8" Fabtech lift 13" total
5:13 Gears
46" Goodyear MVTs Military takeoffs
Bushwacker Cut-Out Fender Flares
Ranch Hand front and rear bumper
On-board air W/Semi horns

1995 F-350 7.3L E4OD DRW
Standard 7.3 mods
PHP Hydra W/Tony Wildman tunes
160/0 Injectors
T-500 HPOP
E-fuel Conversion
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post #3 of 3 Old 09-12-2013, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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thanks alot for the part number!
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