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post #1 of 6 Old 07-20-2013, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
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wheel size

When I bought my 2005 f350 4x4 crew cab it had a lift kit and 18" wheels. I pull a 5th wheel travel trailer and when I hook up I have about 3" of clearance between front of trailer and the sides of the bed. this causes the front of the trailer to be so hi that much more weight is on the rear axle of the trailer. I have blown 2 rear axle tires on trailer. I have a set of 16 in wheels and tires. Also having that small clearance between the trailer and bed sides of the bed makes it very difficult when pulling into fuel station without the trailer and truck touching. I have adjusted 5th wheel hitch down and trailer pin up all I can without trailer and truck touching. If I change to the 16" wheels will that be ok ,giving me 2 more inches of clearance, also can I remove the 4" riser block from the rear springs if the u bolts will still work.
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post #2 of 6 Old 07-20-2013, 12:25 AM
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I don't believe 16's will fit on an 05.... Thought about maybe gettin rid of the lift and goin to maybe a leveling kit?

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post #3 of 6 Old 07-20-2013, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip64 View Post
When I bought my 2005 f350 4x4 crew cab it had a lift kit and 18" wheels. I pull a 5th wheel travel trailer and when I hook up I have about 3" of clearance between front of trailer and the sides of the bed. this causes the front of the trailer to be so hi that much more weight is on the rear axle of the trailer. I have blown 2 rear axle tires on trailer. I have a set of 16 in wheels and tires. Also having that small clearance between the trailer and bed sides of the bed makes it very difficult when pulling into fuel station without the trailer and truck touching. I have adjusted 5th wheel hitch down and trailer pin up all I can without trailer and truck touching. If I change to the 16" wheels will that be ok ,giving me 2 more inches of clearance, also can I remove the 4" riser block from the rear springs if the u bolts will still work.
What size are these tires? 33, 35? As previously mentioned, 16's won't fit on an '05. Next, tire size/diameter is more important than wheel size. I've got 16s on my truck and 17s on my 2007 Mustang, guess which has the taller tire.

How does the truck sit unloaded? If it is tail high, removing a block could make it sit level. However, this will most likely make it tail drag when loaded without air bags. I like the idea of removing the lift and adding a leveling kit. Unless you're rolling 37s, your existing tires will fit with just a leveling kit. Then sell your existing lift to buy air bags.

Finally, what about the trailer? Are the axles on top of the leaf springs or below the leaf springs? If the axles are on top of the leafs, then simply flip them to the bottom of the leaf springs. If they are already below the axle, then why not slip in blocks on the trailer to lift it up? I've seen it done before when towing behind a lifted rig. I mean, how in love with the lift on the truck are you?

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post #4 of 6 Old 07-20-2013, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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the tires and wheels that are on it are 325/60R18. for the hi or low back end ,IF I am measuring at an equal spot on front and rear the bed is about 4 inches higher than the front. I checked the axels on the trailer and they are on top so I could gain at least 4 inches by doing that, but I'm not sure that is the safe thing to do. So if that all be the case I can lower total between raising the trailer and lowering the truck I should be about 6 inches closer to level w/load. Now here's thing, Now granted I DID NOT take the 18 inch wheel off and actually put the 16 inch wheel on,,, but I took a machinist dial and the bolt pattern was 2 1/2 inches on both the 18 and the 16. Like I said I could be wrong about it until I actually try it. Either way I can keep my 18's and still increase my bed to trailer distance. IF the 16's were to fit ,which would I get better performance and mileage out of the 16's or 18's? Thank you both very much. I appreciate the help. Now if someone will give me an idea about my brakes, my other post
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-20-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip64 View Post
the tires and wheels that are on it are 325/60R18. Those would be 33x13.50s for the hi or low back end ,IF I am measuring at an equal spot on front and rear the bed is about 4 inches higher than the front. If it sits that much higher, then you could remove the 4" blocks and not have to do anything to the trailer. You should be able to see four inches of rake just by looking at the side view of the truck. As far as the u-bolts go, cut and re-thread them, I did when I ditched my blocks. I checked the axels on the trailer and they are on top so I could gain at least 4 inches by doing that, but I'm not sure that is the safe thing to do. Sand Mountain in northern NV isn't far from here, I can't tell you how many toy haulers that I have seen that have the axle UNDER the leafs. It's plenty safe, but you could always check with the RV dealer. So if that all be the case I can lower total between raising the trailer and lowering the truck I should be about 6 inches closer to level w/load. Now here's thing, Now granted I DID NOT take the 18 inch wheel off and actually put the 16 inch wheel on,,, but I took a machinist dial and the bolt pattern was 2 1/2 inches on both the 18 and the 16. It's not the bolt pattern, it's the brakes that are the issue with 16s. Like I said I could be wrong about it until I actually try it. Either way I can keep my 18's and still increase my bed to trailer distance. IF the 16's were to fit ,which would I get better performance and mileage out of the 16's or 18's? Thank you both very much. I appreciate the help. Now if someone will give me an idea about my brakes, my other post
I inserted my feedback in red.

Here's what I would do if the tail was that high on my truck. Unbolt the u-bolts, jack the truck using a drop hitch (easy way to lift the entire rear), remove the taller black, lower it back down on to the axle with the shorter block in place, and see how it looks. If it was too low, I would take out the short block and insert the taller, then re-evaluate. If I couldn't find a happy medium, I'd stuff both blocks back in and flip the axles to the bottom of the leafs on the trailer.

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Barefoot Accelerator Pedal
TRICO Force wiper blades
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Offensive "Stick Family" Decal
Big Ol'Honkin 1 1/4" Shank Receiver Hitch


WHAT!?! I was trying to list stuff that everyone else
hasn't already listed for their truck!





Last edited by Karls03; 07-20-2013 at 02:46 PM.
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-20-2013, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip64 View Post
When I bought my 2005 f350 4x4 crew cab it had a lift kit and 18" wheels. I pull a 5th wheel travel trailer and when I hook up I have about 3" of clearance between front of trailer and the sides of the bed. this causes the front of the trailer to be so hi that much more weight is on the rear axle of the trailer. I have blown 2 rear axle tires on trailer. I have a set of 16 in wheels and tires. Also having that small clearance between the trailer and bed sides of the bed makes it very difficult when pulling into fuel station without the trailer and truck touching. I have adjusted 5th wheel hitch down and trailer pin up all I can without trailer and truck touching. If I change to the 16" wheels will that be ok ,giving me 2 more inches of clearance, also can I remove the 4" riser block from the rear springs if the u bolts will still work.
I would lose the lift and maybe donate it to John Galt...
that said...
was it the same tire on the rear? I have heard of sticky trailer brakes heating up tires and blowing them especially if there is a weight differential.
just a thought

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