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Old 01-03-2013, 03:32 PM
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Rear brakes dragging

I bought an 06 Superduty about 5 yrs ago used with 27,500 miles. It now has 48,700 on it now. It sits a lot to be honest and I know it's not good for it, but having time to drive it unless it's needed is hard to come by too. It's had the rearend limited slip rebuilt twice in two years [12k miles]. Once for failure and the next time for being done wrong the first time and not slipping at all [never releases and popped going around corners]. It was in for the rear brakes dragging when they decided that needed to be addressed. Anyway, they fixed the rearend and assumed the brake problems were caused by the popping and made the parking brakes too tight. It's been a pain to diagnose for all of us. Well, that can't be it. It seemed all was fine, the truck sat for a month+ before I drove it again, even had to be jumped off. Drove it 15 miles and noticed it seemed down on power. Got out and the rear brakes were extremely hot again. It sat for 1 1/2 hrs and the brakes released and rolled fine in the parking lot. Drove it back home and they were acting up again. It's been to the dealer twice and sitting there now. They can't get it to replicate the problem at all. I know it's nothing to do with parking brakes because they were never used. It has the disc brakes with the parking brake made inside of them. It's a 4x4 but it doesn't see mud at all. Help me! This thing is killing me taking it 50 miles to a dealer each time and paying for time to get nowhere. I want to blame a proportioning valve, assuming it has one since it has ABS but no way to prove it. Any ideas or places to point me, it's both rear calipers doing this and the dealer is getting nowhere.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:18 AM
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Maybe try temporarily disconnecting the parking brake cables on both sides and seeing if they overheat then. That eliminate the process down.
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Old 01-07-2013, 01:11 PM
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Thought it was the parking brakes myself, but the last time they acted up, the parking brakes were never set. It's been at the dealer since the day after Christmas with no answers. It won't act up in their shop.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:14 AM
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Time to update and finish this thread. Went to pick up the truck from the dealer since they couldn't get it to act up. Drove it around 30+ miles toward home and she was screwed up again. Made a U turn back up the interstate and had the service writer meet me in the bay. After inspecting it, they recommended both rear calipers be replaced and fresh fluid. $850 and she seems to be fine. I've driven her several hundred miles with no problems. They replaced both rear calipers, pads, and flushed the entire brake system.
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Old 02-17-2013, 03:14 PM
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Wow! For $850 I would have drove over there and done it for you! Gotta love dealership prices.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:17 AM
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It sounds bad, and was I guess, but it's still cheaper than a truck payment. To be honest, I wasn't positive they were right. It was kinda of a good place to start, but I wasn't sure it was correct, and I don't think they were either. When your loosing 5 mpg it won't take long to pay for that. I like the truck and don't drive it often, so it should last me a long time.
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Old 02-19-2013, 05:30 AM
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calipers sticking is kinda common on these and for 60 some bucks at autozone for a reman OEM caliper with hardware it's always a good place to start

Glad you got it figured and updated the thread
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:44 AM
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I was just messing with you. Don't feel bad. I took my truck to a diesel mechanic to run diagnostics. I had a spin but no start condition and checked everything on here to nail it down. Spent about $80 in parts fixing different things. Paid the mechanic $600 and picked the truck up after work but it wouldn't crank so I left it there. I went back and they finally figured out it was a $2 relay. We swapped the relay with the A/C blower motor relay and ran fine since. I could have done all that on my own but when you don't know you just don't know.
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