New 20" Nitto Crosstek's installed - spec's - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:06 PM
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New 20" Nitto Crosstek's installed - spec's

Gents:

I just received my OEM '08 8-spoke wheels and went to NTB for Nitto Dura Grapplers after trolling the forum here and toiling for some time over the decision. Somehow I walked out $1500 later with 4 new Crosstek's. I need to verify what they told me about the size and thought maybe someone here could validate the info as well as provide some other answers/knowledge.
They told me the 2006 - 2008 OEM size/aspect ratio is 275/65R20 but the sidewall height looks taller than I recall on trucks that have the 20's on them already. Can any of you out there confirm if that is in fact the OEM size?
Also, I drove in on OEM 17" 5-spoke wheels with the Michelin LTX A/T 2 and I am now noticing alot more "shudder" from the truck over pavement irregularities. Is this normal when going to a 20" wheel tire combo in contrast to the 17" combo? I'm running 65 psi - fyi.

UPDATE 1/31/2014


In an effort to give back to the forum, I figured I would provide an update for those contemplating tire purchases and for those having front end issues.



The Nitto's I bought (Crossteks) have turned out to be very quiet over their approx. 40K+ miles and look like they will be ready for replacement at about the 55K mi mark. I tow a 5ver about 10% of the time so considering that data point, I think they've lasted reasonably well. They do pretty well on the street in rain and snow and I think the number one feature of this tire is how smooth it is. Smokes anything I've had prior including the Michelin LTX A/T2 from a smoothness perspective. Brand new, the tread does roll a bit.

The "shudder" I was describing that I thought was tied to the new wheel tire combo turns out to have a very different source. Apparently, the increase in un-sprung mass of the 20" combo exposed the issue before the OEM 17's did. After the last reported dealer visit the shudder occurred only if the 9000's were adjusted to anything but max firm. Ultimately, that ceased to stop it as well - it returned to stay.

So, I decided I had other things to do so I tolerated the shudder and drove the rig with my "all new" front end.

Then the 4WD began to dislike any temps below 20 degrees and would go on strike until it got warmer. Dealer could not find the "vacuum" leak. All parts other than transfer case and ECM replaced - no fix.

So I decided I had other things to do so I tolerated getting out and manually locking in the hubs.

During a recent trip to the dealer on other issues, I report the truck is wondering all over the road in the wind and low and behold - they report all ball joints are bad along with several steering linkage items. They replace them along with most of the linkage (again....I suppose) and not only does the front axle hold vacuum and the 4WD now engage in minus twelve weather reliably, the "shudder" is gone. Neither were the focus of the visit of course and of course this is the second time the ball joints have been purportedly replaced.

This is all FWIW. Either way, I am shudder free for the first time in 50K miles.

Last edited by CaptnKirk; 01-31-2014 at 10:24 AM. Reason: Update - Tire Life Summary/Front End Issue Identified - Maybe.
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Old 04-24-2011, 04:27 PM
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They are correct about the size. I bought an '11 with the 17" wheel due to having the '08 20" wheels in my garage I was running on my '04. The 275/65-20 is what has been coming on them stock since they started running 20's from the factory. As far as the shuttering...I can't answer that very good. The 20" size should play no part in that whatsoever!!!!! The only things I can think of is the tread pattern, which I don't know what that is on the new tires you bought could be a very different ride than the stockers that were very smooth. More aggressive could mean a little rougher. Or there could be a balancing issue with the new tires. I did run a set of firestone MT's that were a straight aggressive mud tire and they were supper smooth. My 2 cents is that the tires are out of balance or the rims could have something wrong with them. Also double check your lug nuts to all be tight.
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Old 04-25-2011, 10:14 AM
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Anyone have any other thoughts on ride differences expected when going from 17" to 20" OEM tire sizes?
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Old 05-23-2011, 02:15 PM
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Update - Gremlin Found - Let me Paint A Picture

I didn't get a lot of response from anyone, but I do know in talking with several members that I am not the only one trying to remove this issue in my front end.

FWIW................

I added OEM 20's with OEM tire sizes and the front end felt less stable. Went back to NTB and they checked the front end, said all is well. Went to dealer #1, they said the same thing. Both admitted they could feel the issue in the steering. Went back to NTB, removed the Crosstek's on the front and installed Michelin LTX A/T 2, problem actaully worse. Went to dealer #2 - they couldn't "feel" the issue and said front end was in great shape.

Then drove around trying to convince myself that I am an OCD case and that the average person wouldn't notice the issue. Realized I am not average person.

Went to dealer #3 - BUT - this is a Ford dealer that does not sell cars and only sells the SD and bigger up to and including OTR tractors. Forty minutes in the stall and I see them back it out. Walk up to service advisor ready to depart with commentary along the lines of the prior three efforts. Here's what they told me.

OEM says you have to dissassemble the ball joints to check them. One was bad, one was loose. Front tie bar bad, drag link rod assy bad, drag link rod end asy bad, steering gearbox out of adjustment. I asked why the others didn't catch this and this is the point of my rant - they said the average dealer is not able to truly load stress the front end of the SD suspension enough to actually take it to limits that expose front end parts that are exceeding OEM specifications. They said this is also why so many report death wobble yet "seemingly" can't find anything wrong.

So, I get in after a quick $100 check - gremlin not gone...all the way. Still there but not as bad. Thinking about pulling my hair out. I start thinking about a new GM product and about a 2011 SD. Two days later, I get a hair in my a** and I adjust my brand new Rancho RS 9000 9-way adjustable shocks up to their max stiffness just for sh**'s and gigglles and wait for it..........gremlin totally gone.

Go figure. I did the 9000's to begin with and never would have gone back to them if I wasn't sitting at my son's baseball practice passing time. Who'd a thunk?????
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