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post #1 of 10 Old 11-17-2013, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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winch ideas

To start off I just traded my big tex 22gn yesterday for a Big tex 14et gooseneck I had trailer built to 25ft so my cclb would fit on it if need be. Since I was special ordering the trailer I had them install the winch mount option. on the way home I picked up a 12k badland winch from harbor freight. The idea I have is to mount a receiver to plate on trailer and then mount winch to a hitch so I can take it off and put in a pickup if need be. while doing this I was going use warn coupler ends and make up cables to run from battery on both my pickups to the box and run another set through neck of the trailer so I would have quick disconnects at trailer coupler and at winch location then use another set with jumper cable ends in case someone needed to borrow my trailer. looking for thoughts or opinions from guys who have winches

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post #2 of 10 Old 11-18-2013, 01:50 PM
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Sounds like you have it pretty well figured out. The description is spot on from what I'm thinking. Congrats on the new purchase.


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post #3 of 10 Old 11-18-2013, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. It's a huge downsize but better fits the needs. Trying to figure if 2 gauge is heavy enough cable or not


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94 F-250 reg cab 4x4 5spd 7.3 stroke. 3inch downpipe, 4 in exhaust. super duty turbo with 1.0 non wastegated exhaust housing ww2 and 360 thrust kit. Intercooler, MB diesel hpop, driven diesel complete efuel, 6637 air filter, kingpin dana 60.

09 F150 Lariat crew cab 5.4L v8



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post #4 of 10 Old 11-20-2013, 04:20 AM
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I would not want to rely on a harbor freight winch for your truck out on a trail. I've had too many better brands fail. I have a warn on my truck and a Superwinch mounted in my toyhauler and flatbed. The cheaper ones only last about a month past their warranty period, I don't know how they time it so well. As far as mounting, you can't go wrong with reciever hitch style. Did you say your going power it via jumper cables? Don't know how well that will work, cables can be finicky and the winch is going to need some solid juice.

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post #5 of 10 Old 11-20-2013, 04:29 AM Thread Starter
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I was going to run cables from the front to the back it's main purpose is for my trailer. I can't justify 1200 bucks for a warn to get used a couple times a year maybe


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94 F-250 reg cab 4x4 5spd 7.3 stroke. 3inch downpipe, 4 in exhaust. super duty turbo with 1.0 non wastegated exhaust housing ww2 and 360 thrust kit. Intercooler, MB diesel hpop, driven diesel complete efuel, 6637 air filter, kingpin dana 60.

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post #6 of 10 Old 12-16-2013, 05:38 AM
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Honestly having any sort of cable running from your truck battery to the winch will probably run you around $100 or more just for the cabling. I bought some for my race car battery wire that was 2 gauge and 18' long which cost about $50. I looked into this option also for my race car trailer and it was a lot cheaper to just buy a $20 battery box and a good $40-50 battery. I used a $15 weber charcoal grill cover to cover the winch and it kept it looking like new. My truck is 20' long and you would need something like a #1 or 1/0 welding wire in that length plus some to handle the amperage. It has to be welding wire because of the strand composition.


See this also for some good info:
Extending winch battery cables

Here is an amp draw chart. At max pull yours is somewhere around 380 amps.
http://www.directwireusa.com/resourc...rage-chart.pdf


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Last edited by merc123; 12-16-2013 at 05:47 AM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 12-16-2013, 06:19 AM
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1. the winch:
excluding the big names, most of the mid grade winches are all the same just re-branded, you can get a bull dog winch and have the company put your name on it.
That being said, there is a HUGE quality difference in HF vs warn, but you do not have to go the top of the line to suite your needs.
when I started out I went the cheap route because I didnt have the money and I've personally had cars roll out of control off the trailer because the brake inside a HF winch broke and let the line free spool. Now the winch on my trail rig is made by MileMarker and its a fraction of the warn price but way better quality.
So if you use a cheap winch make sure you ALWAYS plan for it to fail, or spend a few extra dollars and get a level up.

2. the wiring:
Its easy to over engineer this and get way over budget.
Cable, big gauge connectors, and circuit breakers are not cheap so unless you plan on going all in on this deal I would just put batteries on the trailer and buy a battery tender to charge em. Then down the road you can wire the truck with an isolator.
this way you don't have the money upfront out of pocket, the trailer is self contained and cannot short out the truck, and in an emergency you can always use jumper cables on the trailer.

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post #8 of 10 Old 12-16-2013, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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Problem is trailer is parked where I can never put any sort of a charger on it so I would always be pulling the battery I bought a 12k winch figuring I only needed a 9k to do what I want. From research I've done warn and super winch only run 2 gauge cable to rear of vehicle for rear mount winches


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94 F-250 reg cab 4x4 5spd 7.3 stroke. 3inch downpipe, 4 in exhaust. super duty turbo with 1.0 non wastegated exhaust housing ww2 and 360 thrust kit. Intercooler, MB diesel hpop, driven diesel complete efuel, 6637 air filter, kingpin dana 60.

09 F150 Lariat crew cab 5.4L v8



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post #9 of 10 Old 12-16-2013, 04:02 PM
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I watched a guy load a Camaro drag car on a trailer and asked him why he didn't use his winch, it was the same S4000 Superwinch I had in my trailer. He said it didn't have enough power, he was running the cables from the front of the truck, you lose a lot of juice running cables that far. The funny thing is, I had the same winch he had, I have the battery next to the winch, and I load Bentley's and have loaded a Crew Cab, F250 4X4 with the same winch he couldn't pull a 3000 lbs car on with.

Just put the battery on there, it takes 2 minutes to take it off, take it home and charge it. Get a good marine battery, problem solved.

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post #10 of 10 Old 12-16-2013, 04:12 PM
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2 gauge is what we use as upfitters, even for a rear of vehicle mount. If you're worried about voltage drop, upsize to 1 gauge. Anything more is overkill.
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