ADVICE NEEDED: SWD to DWD and Gooseneck!!!!

[RJ's325ITS]

So I need tons of info to help me make the right decision, the ultimate goal is to buy a gooseneck trailer to haul 2 cars around the SE (GA, FL, AL, SC, NC, VA)

What I have to play with is a 2001 F-250 2WD/SWD with a rear hitch, with stinger/draw bar/ball mount in it has a lot of play, even front to back... the hole where the pin goes in are not 100% round, they are a bit oval looking.

So my truck came in with a homemade gooseneck, pretty much a C channel welded in between the frame rails, with a whole in the middle with a ball hex nut alse welded to the C channel. <<<< My plan, is to check the welds, if they look good add some reinforcement in the type of gussets. >>>> The last owner use the truck in a farm, this is what I was told be the dealer where I bought it (small town Ford dealer). The truck had on the bed this universal rails installed, I think that's where the safety chain where secure to, am I right? I mean there is nothing else but a hole where the ball goes thru the bed.








SO moving on to the dually conversion:

I've been reading and so far all the info I gather does not fall in place, plain and simple I don’t know what way head to, and how much is going to cost me!

So I found adaptor to install in all four wheel hubs to be able to use the F-320 dually wheels. I guess if I go this route all I would need are: wheels w/proper towing tires and the fenders for the bed.

I also found a couple of threads where they day that the proper way to do it is to swap the dually axle and front hubs.... but there is a million things that might need replacing... such as driveshaft, rear brakes, leaf springs to comply with 350 towing standards, hubs are a maybe if 4WD, proper gears for towing, get an ambulance rear end bc it comes with an LSD, etc....

So you might say, sell the truck and buy a dually.... believe me I thought about it but, I still 2K to 4K under by doing the conversion my self and buy used parts only, not to mention I have not found the first 6spd, 8ft bed, red dually w/170K miles...

The ultimate goal is to end up with a solid hauler, something that I can feel safe towing my precious race car!

SO ANY INFO YOU HAVE IS WELCOME, OR POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION!

I HAVE NOT FOUND A NICE COMPLETE THREAD DOCUMENTING A COVERSION LIKE MINE!

Here is the truck in question:



Thank you,

[StarDriver]

1. The truck goes by the weight rating, so if you do the conversion, it won't change the weight rating. Is the 2 car trailer going to be an open or enclosed?

2. An F-250 isn't rated high enough, doesn't have as good of brakes and is geared too high if you go with an enclosed trailer.


3. I wouldn't hook anything to the homemade piece of crap in the bed.

4. If you're going into business hauling cars, you won't make enough pulling 2 cars on an open to survive. (Now if you aren't going commercial and only doing this every now and then to haul the race cars in your sig, you may be ok. This also applies to #1,2,3. )

5. If you're hauling the two cars in your signature, another option, I'd go with a 32-34 ft tag hitch trailer and I'd just replace the hitch on your truck, you do not want slack in that pin home the way you described it.

6. The rails you show, were probably for a camper 5th wheel, you may be able to find the adapter plate for it for a gooseneck. If not, I'd scrap all of it and put a B&W turnover hitch in it.

[RJ's325ITS]

Originally Posted by StarDriver

1. The truck goes by the weight rating, so if you do the conversion, it won't change the weight rating. Is the 2 car trailer going to be an open or enclosed?

If I read the chart bellow correctly, I will loose 300Lbs of towing capacity with the conversion. And yes, I hope the dual car trailer is an enclosed trailer

2. An F-250 isn't rated high enough, doesn't have as good of brakes and is geared too high if you go with an enclosed trailer.

Back to the chart it looks like I can tow more bc the 250 weights less than the 350. This is the reason why I posted here, some say the 250 is pretty much a 350 with very little difference, for and instance ther 350 has one more leaf spring, different wheels, bolt pattern, and the beds.


3. I wouldn't hook anything to the homemade piece of crap in the bed.

I have the same initial thought when I found out, but the more I look, and search the web the more I find people that will rather built their own rather that buy the name brand. I've even seen pro-welders backing up the home made ones. In all honesty I would've much rather build it my self with known welds and materials, but for now a good inspection with some reinforments will have to do. Removing the old one would be a pita, and I rather keep it simple and don't go crazy with the project

4. If you're going into business hauling cars, you won't make enough pulling 2 cars on an open to survive. (Now if you aren't going commercial and only doing this every now and then to haul the race cars in your sig, you may be ok. This also applies to #1,2,3. )

No, my intencions are not commercial at all, just my car and my GF's car to track/race weekends

5. If you're hauling the two cars in your signature, another option, I'd go with a 32-34 ft tag hitch trailer and I'd just replace the hitch on your truck, you do not want slack in that pin home the way you described it.

I though about it but I was already a victim of trailer sway, thanks God nothing realy bad happen.... I've been told by people that tows for living that once you tow with a gooseneck you realized how crazy was to tow with a pull/tag type trailer!


6. The rails you show, were probably for a camper 5th wheel, you may be able to find the adapter plate for it for a gooseneck. If not, I'd scrap all of it and put a B&W turnover hitch in it.

If I scrap them then where will I could connect my safety chains from? that's why I kept them with that only porpurse, I dont want to deal with a 5th wheel

I love the dually set up in your sig, that type of trailer is what I would get if I could, enough for 2 cars plus spare tires and tool

[1BADTON]

Originally Posted by StarDriver

1. The truck goes by the weight rating, so if you do the conversion, it won't change the weight rating. Is the 2 car trailer going to be an open or enclosed?

2. An F-250 isn't rated high enough, doesn't have as good of brakes and is geared too high if you go with an enclosed trailer.


3. I wouldn't hook anything to the homemade piece of crap in the bed.

4. If you're going into business hauling cars, you won't make enough pulling 2 cars on an open to survive. (Now if you aren't going commercial and only doing this every now and then to haul the race cars in your sig, you may be ok. This also applies to #1,2,3. )

5. If you're hauling the two cars in your signature, another option, I'd go with a 32-34 ft tag hitch trailer and I'd just replace the hitch on your truck, you do not want slack in that pin home the way you described it.

6. The rails you show, were probably for a camper 5th wheel, you may be able to find the adapter plate for it for a gooseneck. If not, I'd scrap all of it and put a B&W turnover hitch in it.

Agreed with what Stardriver said, homemade hitch good luck, wouldn't trust it for my early bronco let alone go into an hauling bussiness. Can you afford to replace the stuff your hauling, when you insurance carrier find out it is a homemade hitch? and dosen't cover the load let alone drops you? Do it right! Never be afraid to buy the best you will never be disappointed!! Also even though alot do it , the heavier the truck the lighter the trailer load.

[351fifty]

super duties use a dana 80 rear axle as opposed to the srw trucks using the sterling 10.5, go ahead and purchase the correct hitch, b&w turn over is one of the best, and as for the bed i beleive the SD's your going to need a whole bed not just the fenders, the front you can just buy spacers for and run dually rims, but that isnt totally necessary either you can keep those rims and tires that are there, good luck with your conversion tho

[1snakedoc]

the 250 will scream pulling a 2 car enclosed trailer. you need 4.10 or higher.
plus the pin weight will be high.

i have pulled some big heavy loads with my 250, then i got a 550 makes 14000lbs pull like an empty truck.
i say if you are going to be doing this a lot find a new truck 350+. you will be much happier.

[countryraised]

one thing your not realizing on that chart, the 250 is rated for more trailer weight because the 350 dually weighs more, as soon as you add the better rear axle and extra tires to the 250 you have taken that away from what you are rated to pull.

[StarDriver]

Originally Posted by RJ's325ITS

I love the dually set up in your sig, that type of trailer is what I would get if I could, enough for 2 cars plus spare tires and tool

You won't hook a 250 up to my sized trailer and pull it safely. You're going to need a F-350, and I'd try to find one with 4:30s, instead of 4:10s.

Again, you can do the conversion, but that LEGALLY doesn't raise the vehicle weight rating. It's gonna suck if you get popped and they find you overwight.

Do it once, do it right.

[sootman73]

Bottom line for you to be safe is trash that hitch in there now that looks like its held together with bird **** welding.

Get a good bought hitch for less than $400, install it per instructions.

Forget the dually conversion on your f250. you dont need it for pulling a 2 car gooseneck trailer. I've pulled that much weight with a bumper pull. The dually conversion won't help your weight rating and is a waste of money and time on that truck.

If you want duals go buy a F350.

If you want added capacity(not legal weight carrying) get an airbag setup on the back axle to take some weight off the leaf spring suspension.

Thats how i'd tow that trailer and i tow 20,000# dozers with 1 ton trucks. (yes its legal in Ohio/Michigan with apportioned plates)