Bigger Hitch or distribution hitch

[bucko89]

So I am a little confused as to what i need to tow at my f250's max capacity of 12500# I know I need a distribution hitch I'f I use the factory ford hitch but if I swap it out to a bigger hitch can a run legally with out the distribution hitch?

[F250SixOH]

A WD hitch will keep your truck more level and tow better. They aren't very expensive. I would go with one if you intend to tow a lot loaded up that way.

[countryraised]

The truck is only rated to 12500# if you have a weigth distributing hitch, no matter how much the hitch is rated for. A WD hitch works like a lever to transfer down pressure(weight) to the front end of the truck, to keep it from getting light with too much tongue weight.

[bucko89]

But wouldn't a bigger hitch and bags keep the front end down too? I think I'm going to go with a WD hitch but I just want to see what the other options where

[bucko89]

But wouldn't a bigger hitch and bags keep the front end down too? I think I'm going to go with a WD hitch but I just want to see what the other options where

[GreenF350]

Originally Posted by bucko89

But wouldn't a bigger hitch and bags keep the front end down too? I think I'm going to go with a WD hitch but I just want to see what the other options where

Not exactly...A bigger hitch won't do anything for the weight, but ensure the hitch itself doesn't break and the air bags won't do much, if anything for the weight on the front of the truck. Think of it this way....If you have a teeter-totter with "X" amount of weight on one side and without changing the fulcrum point you raise the center up some (air bags) it wouldn't really change the weight on the other end of the teeter totter. Air bags just help level the truck out and take some of the strain off the springs. The load distributing hitch has two extra bars that act as a level and tried to force the front of the truck down to distribute the load better. I know it is hard to explain, but if you see a load distributing hitch at work in person it makes sense. My buddy has a Dodge 2500 that we used to tow a 7k lb camper with. We would hook it up to the hitch and get a good drop at the rear. We would hook up the load distributing bars and it would lift the back up 2 or 3 inches and add weight to the front of the truck.
-Aaron

[bucko89]

Thanks for taking the time to explain that

[StarDriver]

If the rear is squatting, airbags will level it out and make it handle better. Plus, will help your ride when empty.

[Highbeam]

New stout classV receiver is just over 200$, you won't need a WDH with any trailer under 12,500. A new WDH setup can be nearly 500$ to as little as 300$. I use and recommend a WDH as required by the receiver's label which for the OEM hitch is only a 5000 lb (maybe 6000lb)trailer. I especially recommend WDH for RV trailers or big tall enclosed trailers.

Now when you're hauling a flatbed car hauler with a tractor, the WDH is a PITA. It makes for a smoother tow but is a pain when loading and unloading weight from the trailer and driving in rough areas. I plan to set up the equipment to prevent WDH usage for equipment hauling. Easily done with properly rated hitch/receiver equipment.

The only WDH requirement is on the factory receiver. I like the idea of upgrading that weak receiver just for peace of mind even when I use the WDH.