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Realistic towing capacity (newbie ??s)

42K views 26 replies 18 participants last post by  Ren 
#1 ·
(disclaimer: I'm mechanically challenged, new to the forum, and new to the diesel world. In other words: be gentle, it's my first time. :nutkick:)

I bought an '08 F250 6.4L, 4X4 Lariat this past spring, completely STOCK. I tow a 24' toyhauler/camper that weighs in around #8000 fully loaded. No issues there. I'm looking at upgrading the rv this winter, and am finding I really can't tow as much trailer as I had hoped. Ford :icon_ford: says I can tow #12,500 on a 5th wheel. Most of what I'm looking at will put me in the #14,000 range. I know I can beef up the springs and such to help out with the load distribution, but what of the limits of the motor and transmission? :dunno: And by adding airbags, etc, how can I then determine what I can SAFELY load and pull with the truck?

I leave my fate in your hands, oh most omnipotent bbs overseers. :hehe:

TIA
PJ
 
#2 ·
Your engine and trans arn't the issue. For me it would be stability of the truck. Its a F250, I would want a F350 at least or a dually for me to safe. Springs and air bags will keep the truck level, but if a nice cross wind hits that camper that truck will be all over the road.
 
#3 ·
Engine and transmission will be fine. They use the same powertrain all the way up to the F-550 (with different gearing). Where you are going to run into problems is with GVWR. If your truck weighs 7400# ready to roll, that only allows you 1400# of trailer pin weight. Assuming your pin weight is 17.5% of your trailers weight, that allows you to pull a fifth wheel trailer weighing only 8000#.

On an F-250 you're going to hit your GVWR before you ever come close to hitting the combined weight rating. Now thats not to say a lot of guys don't excede these numbers, but thats what the sticker inside your door says.
 
#4 ·
There's no getting around the legality of what your truck is rated for vs what it is capable of towing. The 250 and 350 SRW are essentially the same except for the labels. 14k isn't an issue for a 250 if you drive smart. Put some airbags under it, make sure your tires are in good shape and properly inflated and you'll be fine.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Check this link:
https://www.fleet.ford.com/showroom/rv_trailer_towing/2008/2008_default.asp - Check #19 - The numbers in here are different than the numbers you show above.

Just passing it on.

Also, FWIW, PLEASE make sure you are looking at the GROSS trailer weight when shopping for a trailer. I've seen too many people saying "Hey, I can tow THIS trailer, it only weighs #### empty." Yeah, true enough, but who ever tows it empty? You're wanting a toy hauler - I can guarantee you won't be towing empty. :nod:
 
#8 ·
Also, FWIW, PLEASE make sure you are looking at the GROSS trailer weight when shopping for a trailer. I've seen too many people saying "Hey, I can tow THIS trailer, it only weighs #### empty." Yeah, true enough, but who ever tows it empty? You're wanting a toy hauler - I can guarantee you won't be towing empty. :nod:
Yup, I am indeed. the #14K is loaded, mid-11s dry weight. DEFINITELY won't be towing empty! Thanks for the reminder... and the link.
 
#6 ·
I agree...
 
#7 ·
I wouldnt worry about what it says within reason. I mean i put 15k+ on mine, no its not legal but it pulls it no problem. You will be fine with 14k if you drive with sense. You need to check weight limits of tires, rims, and axles. Those are your weak links.
 
#9 ·
So, can I come to the loose conclusion that a significant amount of people are towing above what the manufacturer recommends as maximums? Can I also conclude that as long as I am not going WAY over my limits, driving smart, and making the correct the mods/adjustments I should be ok?
 
#10 ·
It is hard to quantify 'a significant amount', but, yes, there are many people who tow over the limit. Some never have an issue, some do. As pointed out above, if ya behave yourself, you should be fine. Ultimately, the call to tow heavy is yours. Be as well informed as you can to make the best decision you can...for your safety and that of your family.

I am on an RV Forum as well (I also tow a regular 5er - 12k) and this topic comes up a lot. Some of the stuff that is said: (paraphrased)
Yes, your truck can probably tow way more than recommended, but....you gotta stop it too. Yes, the trailer will have brakes, but how much are you taxing the brakes on the truck.
Be careful how much over you tow. If you're in an accident, your truck/trailer may be weighed - if you're overweight, you could be found at fault. (depending on the circumstances)
.........and it goes on.
 
#12 ·
The down fall of 3/4 tons is there payload capacity. they can pull the same as a 1 ton but can't carry the load on thier back. As far as being overloaded I would be less worried about the police and more concerned about a civil suit. If you hurt some even if not your fault someone can lawyer up and have everything wieghed and you won't have a leg to stand on.
 
#13 ·
What the truck can tow safely and what some drivers can tow safely with the same truck can be vastly different.

Back in the late 80's my dad purchased an 83 toyota 4x4 truck,lifted it enough to install 15-38 monster mudder tires underneath then installed a gooseneck hitch in it so that he could transport an 85 HP 4x4 tractor and loader 15 miles one way twice a week to feed cattle. iirc the trailer had no brakes with several hills involved in the trip. He had to always use low range when pulling, going thru 2 transfer cases in the process. This went on about 5 years with no problems.

Do I think this was wise thinking? not at all, but I am sure there are a very few people who could have safely driven a truck like that towing or not. Experience is a very important part of the equation.
 
#14 ·
I have a 2005, F250 that is registered for 12000Lbs in my Province. The GVWR is 23000Lbs.

I tow a trailer with a Gross weight Rating of 15500 and empty hitch weight of 2000Lbs.

The truck has one extra long spring ply to protect the main ply and its were capable to handle the trailer.

I tried to add a shorter ply instead of the longer ply to smooth out the ride and it just made the truck unstable, and I would think its the same as air bags would act like.

The dual main ply added stability and made the ride very comfortable in the wind.

My tires are 265-70-17 loaded at 75PSI empty. With the trailer on the rear tire pressure is 80PSI.
 
#15 ·
you post topic is "realistic capacity" that has nothing to do with GVWR. the sticker says what it says.. i have been towing the biggest fithwheels for 15 years, and even doubles for many years and never been stopped or checked. I recently moved from Alaska to Las Veags in the dead of winter and had to move all my belonings down the ALCAN highway in the dead of winter, my 40' toyhauler is 13.5 empty.... i had to weight it for re-imbursement purposes and I wont post the weight on this forum, but the trailer alone was well over 20k, the combined was well over 30k.... my truck is lifted on coilovers... my point is, its all about the driver.. i could manage a 20k fifth wheel in a ranger, though i could not pull the speed limit..... just be smart and get er done... you already have experience pulling your 8k trailer, so just pick what suits your family and dont stress the weights.. as always, your going to have to drive smart, safe, and within limits... good luck
 
#16 ·
Wait a sec, aren't the 250's & 350 SRW rated at 15k for the 5th wheel, 12.5k bumper w/ WDH?? 23k GCWR??

You'll be fine. :thumb:

Your limiting factor, like stated, will be your GVWR--which should be 10k (It is on my 06 anyway). This will leave you with ~2k of hitch weight to work with. However, you can exceed the GVWR within reason, but stay under the GAWR (Gross axle weight rating) and tire ratings. Going over them will get you in trouble.

You will need some sort of supplementary suspension (i.e. airbags, Timbren SES [which I have and love], SuperSprings, etc) to keep her level.
 
#19 ·
Yep.



Yep, I was thinking the same thing. My identical '08 250 is 12.5k on the hitch and 15.4k with 5th wheel. Never done either, but Ford says it's alright!

Tim
 
#17 · (Edited)
Where the people get into trouble is how they registered the truck for the weight. There are hotshots that I know personally that tow up to 40,000 lbs. gross with a F-350 dually. Legally, I can run as heavy as I want as long as it's registered for that weight with the right equipment.

Just make sure that you run with an E-rated tire and you're good to go. Plus the manufacter's weight rating is actually for the warranty work (I have a good friend who works for Ford.). Just check your per axle weigh in when you get a change to know where you are for the weight. As far as the airbags are concerned, I would have them as needed because you never know. I have them on mine, but used them only a few times. Also, mine bags each have their own air line, it really helps if you have some sway when the wind hits.
 
#18 ·
Good info from you guys. Thanks! I'm not trying to push the limits of the truck or grossly surpass it's limits. But, I do want to utilize the max that Ford says is possible without extensive modifications, add-ons, etc. I'll surely do the airbags/springs, correct tires and so on. But I don't want to drop a ton of $$ into the truck on upgrades (I do enough of that with the bike!).
 
#20 ·
Thanks for the chart information SuperCrutyPS.

A question for anyone who knows; How can I determine what my axle ratio is? Is there a way to tell from the Vin? I have a 2003 6.0 CCPS Long Bed. I have a foggy memory of being able to decipher that from the VIN.
 
#22 ·
If it is a SRW, it will be a 3.73. You can look at your door sticker and at the bottom right side will be "axle" and under it will be a code such as "3L". This is your axle ratio code. You can look at this chart to determine what ratio it is:

AXLE CODES:

37- 3.73

3L- 3.73 LS

41- 4.10

4N- 4.10 LS

43- 4.30

4L- 4.30 LS

48- 4.88

8L- 4.88 LS

53- 5.38

5L- 5.38 LS


It is also on the axle tag at the top of the rear diff cover.
 
#21 ·
In Arizona the DOT has roadblocks once in a while, where I haven't seen one in a few years, used to be common. I worked at a lumber yard and our trucks were always getting stopped, weighed, lights checked,etc.The stops were for all commercial trucks. Now Az says any truck over 8,000 lbs in a commercial truck, meaning any 8 hole wheel or any truck with a non stock bed.A 64 Toyota with a piece of plywood on the back in place of a stock bed is a commercial truck now.The state is broke, so as soon as they can swing the manpower I'm betting the road blocks and resulting fines are coming.Watch your gross weight limits. Not sure what the fine would be, but I know you won't be allowed to move untill the officials are happy. At the lumber yard we paid more than a few fines and had a couple trucks towed that ran just fine.Any other states out there doing this stuff? What about crossing state borders at Ports of Entry? A friend of mine got stopped at the Calif border, in the desert sun for 12 hours until he paid almost 800 bucks in fines for a new truck that had the license plate 3 inch too high. Big Brother is watching, and he needs the money!
 
#24 ·
Now I will not go to Arizona, British Columbia, Manitoba, Ontario and Novas Scotia. But I do have a good time everywhere I go anyway.
 
#26 ·
My biggest concern with going over the max GVWR is holding back on long steep grades. I think anything over a 14000 lb trailer should have a truck equipped with either a 4.10 or higher ratio rear end or better yet an exhaust brake. A gas engine will do more holding back than will a diesel without an exhaust brake. If your not going to be pulling anything for hills than it is less of a concern.
 
#27 ·
That Chevy is ruining the picture! :bump:

My personal advice is buy more truck. Simple, yet expensive advice.... but after trashing a tranny in VA, and basically ruining a great vacation I swore Id never pull over what the truck was rated at ever again. Nothing worse than needing a transmission re-build to get you home.... highway robbery anyone? BTW... this was on a older 3/4 ton GMC.... so take it for what its worth.

Always buy more truck than you think you will need.
 
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