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Welcome to the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Ford Diesel Community on the internet! You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
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| What a Powerstroke is for, Towing and Hauling FAQs, How To's, What do you pull, 5ers |
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I prefer the trailers without perminent sides- if you want sides, then add them using the stake pockets and return to flat when you dont' need them. I've also had cars that could not get the doors open when there were built on sides- so check the door bottom height verses side height if you want sides... The beaver tail is nice- the longer the better- mine has just 3' on 18' but it helps- and the lower the trailer deck, the lower and longer nosed cars you can load while hooked to the truck on level. The trailers do not need to be lifted- fat chicks can still get on them... ![]() If you can swing it you might want to get up a size on the trailers- I thought a 16' would be good, so I bought an 18'... and the widest bed is the best- never know what you will want to try and move with it! I tried to get a nose tool box, but they didn't offer one, so I added an ammo can to it- large one, so it hold the jack, lug wrench (different size lugs than the 250) and straps, chains and binders... Also, look at atleast one spare, if its more local hauling, and two if you plan to use it alot or long distances... and new tires if its to be used alot- some manufacturers will offer with used tires or new at added cost- mainly custom manufacturers, not just locals... (mine came from Branson, MO area and I live in MI- pickup was alot less than local resellers of same trailer) Just my
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I see you are in Maryland.There is a small manufacturer in Bear Delaware,that has been designing and manufacturing small trailers for well over 20 years.He had well over 10 differant trailers that fit the bill of what you mentioned...to include: full metal deck,tilt deck, two split decks,pressure treated deck or he will custom make one to fit your desire. For example I saw he had a model that had two 3500 lb axels ...i was interested in 5000 pound axels but on the shorter bed. He said no problem at all. His prices were better than any I have seen on the web or ebay (except for one manufactuer in Missouri) If anyone is interested in making the trip to northern delaware ,i will provide the info via email .Oh...he uses Dexter Axels and does some pretty clever designs. |
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Check out Kremin Welding. The site is Custom Built Trailers - Welding & Fabrication - Kremin Welding - Custom Built Stock Cars - Walnut Grove, Minnesota - MN. They have some of the nicest car trailers I've seen at the races for open trailers.
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As said before an 18' is about the best bet, you want to be able to move the car around to get the load balance and that extra 2' makes all the difference. I have had my 94 F-350 crew cab long box dually on mine with a few inches front and rear to spare. Also, you want good tie downs, I had 8 Heavy d-rings welded to the side of mine and it was only $80 more. Also, for a trailer that will haul no more than 7k brakes on both axles won't be nececary, however if you ever plan to use the trailer for work stuff or haul comercially you have to have brakes on all axles (DOT regs.) With the lighting make sure you use a company that runs all the wiring in coduit and not stapled to the bottom of the deck, If you can afford it LED is the only way to go. BTW, mine is a straight deck (no dovetail) with 5' ramps, I can get most "low" cars on without any problems and I have more deck to use, just my thoughts.
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Good info, thanks guys.
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