'99 7.3 with 5-spd. manual....shifting problems. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 12-27-2007, 07:34 AM
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'99 7.3 with 5-spd. manual....shifting problems.

1996 F250 2WD 7.3 Turbo with 5 speed manual.

I currently have 140K miles on the truck and have owned it since 35K. In my opinion, the truck has never shifted "right". The clutch has always disengaged right on the floor. (I have replaced the bushing several times, and done the mod with the cotter pin). The trans is always hard to get into reverse and first. It is even worse in the winter.

This winter, it has gotten unbearable....quickly. I replaced the clutch bushing again (it was worn). Then I checked the master cylinder and found it empty. I filled it and the clutch was almost back to "normal".
I am now convinced that the hyd. line has air in it and needs to be bled....How does one do this?
I read on one post where someone with similar symptoms was recommended to go to the Ford dealer and purchase the hyd. assembly, including master, line, and slave. Is this my best bet?

What kind of mileage can you expect out of a clutch. 90% of my miles are highway, and it is rare for me to pull anything. I have only pulled a heavy (10K #) trailer 3 times for short distances...total 1000 miles. I am easy on a clutch and never rest my foot on the pedal.

The master cyl. pushrod is oval'ed where the bushing goes, so it eat bushings rather quickly. During this repair, I want to replace that, but how does it come out of the master cyl?

The steel pin that the bushing goes on is misformed also, it is possible to replace that without purchasing the entire pedal assembly?

Your help is appreciated,
Mike
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:00 AM
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You may want to change the bushings on the rod that goes over the steering column. You can get a new adjustable push rod from NAPA. Don't know the part number, but I found mine on a rack with the replacement door handles and window cranks. You can remove the pedal assembly and weld a new pin on the end of the linkage. I have also seen some trucks using copper tubing for bushings, or you can replace the push rod with a heim joint rod end. I think you can find kits on ebay. The complete unit from ford is the easiest way to go, but very expensive. NAPA also sells a slave cylinder with a bleeder, but they are crap. You can try using an adjustable wrench on the clutch fork to make sure you get the complete stroke out of it when bleeding. It takes a while and you may need to let it set for a few minutes between bleeding sessions to let the air work its way up.
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Old 12-27-2007, 05:42 PM
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How do I bleed it?

Thanks for the great info. I had heard of adjustable pushrods, but could not find one. I'll check NAPA tomorrow.

How do I bleed the system, there is no bleeder, and the line does not appear to be "bleedable" by loosening it.

The bushings on the rod over the column do appear to be a little loose, so I'll get those as well.

Again, thanks a ton for the help. I figured that someone else out there has had the same fun!
Mike
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Old 12-27-2007, 06:16 PM
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Clearly your shifting assembly is the biggest trouble here and perhaps you may as well have trouble with sycronizer speed up due to the cold weather as well. Once you get the mechanical resolved then go to Amsoil gear lube, she will drive like a new truck!
Bob
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