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Old 03-30-2012, 07:33 PM
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B&W Turnover Install 2012 Super Duty

I can't even remember how many threads I have read with questions about the the B&W Turnover ball gooseneck and people wanting to know if it is easy to install. I just put one into my new truck so I decided I would show everyone step-by-step how I did it since i have not seen one.

Disclaimer: This is just for information purposes. Please follow B&W's instructions (they are actually quite good). I Just want people to see how easy it is.

To start off you'll need to pull out some tools:

Ratchets & different length extensions
10mm socket
7/16" socket
1/2 " socket
9/16 " socket and wrench
3/4 " socket and wrench
1 1/8" socket and wrench
4" hole saw + matching bit for pilot hole
1/2 drill bit
Punch
Measuring tape
Masking tape(optional)
Torque wrench capable of 80 & 120 ft lbs
Pencil and square/ruler
Scrap 2x4
Rounded file or some kind of deburring tool
Shop Vac
Spare tire key
Jack and lug wrench kit from inside truck(i'll explain later)
Rope
Adhesive Spray

Option 1:
Sawzall, dremel, jiggsaw or even tin snips if you have some good hand power. Anyways, something to cut sheet metal.

Option 2:
T50 Bit

The gooseneck comes in two boxes. These are the parts for a 2011/12 super duty:



Parts out of the box:


Organized in their sections:




I have slightly altered the order of the steps from B&W's instructions- i'll try and explain why when i do.


Step 1:

Measure out the hole. 46 1/8" from rear of bed (don't forget to add if you have a bed liner) and center between the wheel wells. This is definitely one of those times where you should measure a few times!




I don't drill the hole at this point because I like to know what I'm drilling through and depending on the placement of your heat shield you may drill through it.

Step 2:

Drop the spare tire. You will need:

Into here:

And let her down. If you are installing this hitch hopefully you could have figured that out on your own.....

Undo the exhaust bracket:



Remove the heat shield from above the exhaust:




And now you should be good to go back up and drill your hole.

Step 3:

At the intersections of your marks that you measured use a punch to create a starter for your pilot bit:


Drill your pilot hole:



Use the hole saw to cut out the hole where your gooseneck will come out:

Yes, it is scary no matter how many times you do it!


Use whatever tool you like to de-burr the hole and clean it up nicely.

Step 4: Getting the rails in.

There are a couple of ways to do this and i will show you both.

Option 1(As per the instructions)

Measure and cut out a notch 1 1/2 inches back from the front cross member on the truck bed. The notch per the instructions needs to be 3/8 " from the bottom up and 7/8"wide(center of that width is at the 1 1/2 inch line):


In real life you'll find that most people end up cutting out a bigger notch than that due to the trickiness of turning the cross members.

Option 2:
I'm not a big fan of cutting my trucks up so I go about this another way which i find just as fast if not faster when saving you the headache of trying to get the cross members in place. Please do not do this if you are not comfortable lining your box back up after.

Loosen all 8 Torx bolts holding the bed down to the frame:

I then wedge a little pice of wood under the bed cross members on each side:


For both options slide the cross members through and into place. For option 1 you will now see why that notch is so important when trying to rotate the cross member into place. Yours will look different as your cross members will be quite square instead of tilted over like mine(due to the extra room).



At this point we're going underneath to install the center section. If you used option 2 you can take out the wood or leave it there for the extra room with the center section then take it out after.

Put the center section in. I work from the drivers side towards the passenger side lifting over the exhaust and the moving it into place. Be careful of all the lines/electrical.

I start with the center bolt at the rear to help hold it up then place the other two. I the go to the front and do the same. All hand tight.

For option 2 if you have not removed the wood yet do this now.

Get up into the bed. This is where the scrap wood and jack will come into play with your random rope.

This picture should be pretty self-explanitory, but does a great job of holding the center section up and centered for when you tighten it up.



Step 5: Put the side plates on with bolts as per diagram:





So that my pictures don't confuse anyone please tighten and torque all of the center section bolts first to 80 ft lbs. Then remove the jack holding up the center section by the rope and make sure the hitch is square. At this point follow the order on the pictures doing the 1's first then the 2's and so on.


Step 6:

Get your drill with a 1/2" bit and your latch handle and hardware/wrenches and get back under the truck. If you used option 2 you'll want to make sure you've already lined your bed back up and secured it back down before drilling.

Drill out the 4 holes closest to the ball section:


Then install the latch handle:


(That's a 9/16 bolt/nut for the record)


Go back up and drop in the u-bolts after cleaning up your holes:


Back under to install the hardware:


to be continued..
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:36 PM
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Part 2:

Next up is re-installing the heat shield. I like to re-check the torque on the center section bolts before doing this

I tend to only spray the areas that are actually going to make contact with the metal- works out to about 4 evenly spaced strips.


Step 7: Re-install the exhaust with the new bracket:





Now with some model trucks there is talk about how the exhaust relocation bracket drops the exhaust tips drastically- I've read numbers up to 5 inches on some of the forums. So for those of you that are curious:



And that's about it. Make sure your ball latches correctly and everything's torqued up properly. I like to re-check all the bolts after a couple weeks just to be sure.

All installed:



Hopefully that will help some of you guys out. If i missed anything let me know and I'll edit it in.
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:46 PM
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Links to the B&W Instructions:

http://www.turnoverball.com/sites/de..._30_2011_0.pdf

And extra instructions for relocation bracket:

http://www.turnoverball.com/sites/de...ket_letter.pdf
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Old 04-29-2012, 04:44 PM
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Excellent write up. I wish I saw this a few days ago. I just had the same hitch installed for $595. Plus $150 for the plug mounted in the bed.
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2012, 04:34 AM
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If you paid 595 for labor only, you got effhed
B&Ws are really pretty easy installs. Did my second one on an 06 2500 Dodge. Had everything ready to be tightened up in an hour. Did the whole install plus bed plug in about 3.5.
I will say this: you pay what you get for. The kit is VERY solid. Very good instructions. Very well put together. Very well thought out. It. Is. Nice. I just don't like their Companion Hitch.
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:43 AM
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Yeah I've done a few of them and I'll say the first time is a little nerve racking when you drill that hole! But over all pretty easy.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:12 AM
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The only issue I've run into is getting the bolts to thread into the front cross member cause you have to keep the hitch section pretty high, and that sucker is heavy. Hence the jack idea

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
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b & w, b&w, gooseneck, gooseneck install, turnover

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