Carli Radius Arm Drop VS 3 Link - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 02-06-2014, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Carli Radius Arm Drop VS 3 Link

Hello all,

Found out the hard way, that wasting my money on a 4.5" Rough country kit was Not the way to go for my new 2014 F250 6.7..

After buying Trevors Floating 7" track block has taken care of the rear, but now the front ends wandering and some seem to think it's because of the flimsy Radius arm drop brackets supplied in the RC kit.. Plus the supplied shock are over extended so new shox are also needed..

Been wondering if going to Carli's drop brackets with factory radius arms opposed to a 3 link will be fine..

Also looking at Carlis coil springs and bilstein 5100 all from diesel power products...

can anyone shed some quality light on the direction I'm considering going or possibly another while attempting to keeping costs down..

Thanks in advance

2014 F250 Lariat 6.7 SC Short box, PMF 7" floating traction block kit and adjustable track bar, RC dual stabilizer kit, winter setup, factory 18" wheels/Toyo open country A/T II 35/11.5/18

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post #2 of 14 Old 02-06-2014, 09:50 AM
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Assuming that the wandering is from the RC brackets flexing then the Carli drop brackets will be an improvement. Since correct drop brackets put the radius arm at a flatter angle than a new arm that mounts to the stock pivot point they will ride a bit better. Of course the final ride also is counting on improved spring rates, shock valving, and wheel/tire/psi choice.

BTW- There are a few helpful Carli dealers on here as well.



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post #3 of 14 Old 02-06-2014, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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I spoke with the guys at DPP and they say they've not heard of "flexing" radius arm drop brackets as some seem to suggest..

I've feel I've spent enough on the truck to this point, but feel the front end ride is decent now, but don't need to find out the coils in a few years they need to be replaced..

I'm wondering if I should just get the adj track bar installed and castor set and see how that is, but didn't want to have front end set up Again then fid out I need other replacement components than have to have it aligned again afterwards..

2014 F250 Lariat 6.7 SC Short box, PMF 7" floating traction block kit and adjustable track bar, RC dual stabilizer kit, winter setup, factory 18" wheels/Toyo open country A/T II 35/11.5/18

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post #4 of 14 Old 02-06-2014, 03:39 PM
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The wandering you feel is probably due to not enough positive caster. Do you have your alignment sheet from the shop?
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post #5 of 14 Old 02-06-2014, 03:49 PM
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Agreed

you mentioned radius arm drop bracket flexing and I couldn't comprehend that

i would entertain a 4 link but i think caster is your problem also

why would you ever need new coils ?

you can get shock extensions
adjustable trac bars are to center the axle if yours is centered now you wasting $$

Just because I have a banner that states "Moderator"
does not mean you can't argue with my opinions !
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post #6 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 07:58 AM
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i went from a icon 4.5 to icon7.... i kept my adjustable track bar, but its just as long as the stock bar now since i used the drop bracket for the track bar...so you can do that as well, but then you still have that stupid bushing to worry about.
Castor ive learned myself is a big deal with these trucks. mine was in the negatives and drove AWFUL, like i wanted to jump it off a bridge. then after alignment i was only able to get to +1*castor. Huge improvement and i will eventually do a 3 or 4 link to get the rest of the castor i need (4.5-5*) is what ive been reading is the best for these rigs. So take that for what its worth
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post #7 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys for the suggestions..

RC replaced their 3 week old leaking rear shocks and knowing it will likely reoccur again, I brought up a full set of Bilstein 5100 and installed rears only in the snowy driveway and they have improved ride but still stiff.. PMF's 3/4" top mounted U bolts are about 6" longer than need be and stick up higher than the top of the rear tire and they need to be removed and cut,, but what a Huge improvement they've made for solid feel in rear and think the traction bars still on go on will help even more..

Called Offroad Addiction who initially did alignment and they couldn't tell me spces they set it to, but man it wanders as bad as my ol 94 3500 12 valve..Other offroaders have suggested for this truck I should be needing Negative 4-4.5*, so I don't know after reading Big Smokeys post... The front axle is off center currently over 1" and it looks like and old dog tracking farm truck and hopefully Trevors Adj Track Bar corrects that.. What bushing are you referring too BS?? in the end of the Adj Track Bar?? do they wear out prematurely ??

Now that Spring I think might be finally here, I want to get this work done and get the truck feeling and driving as a new truck should..

2014 F250 Lariat 6.7 SC Short box, PMF 7" floating traction block kit and adjustable track bar, RC dual stabilizer kit, winter setup, factory 18" wheels/Toyo open country A/T II 35/11.5/18

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post #8 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 06:44 PM
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Stock track bars have a bushing, PMF's bar will have a Heim joint.

David Frost

2005 F250 Harley 6.0 CCSB
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 07:07 PM
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First of all I had the 6" RC lift on my truck with the flimsy drop down brackets and it hunted all over the road. The drop down brackets are there to keep the caster geometry in the oem position.
What I can tell you is: I replaced my radius arms out with Fabtech arms and tossed the drop down brackets and immediately had a truck that went where I pointed it for the first time. I later installed Icon 7" coils along with RS9000 shocks. This greatly improved the ride of the truck. I initially installed the Fabtech radius arms because how awfull the oem arms looked hanging down like a teeter totter. I think you need to put a quality lift on a brand new truck not a cheapie like RC.
Track bar does need to be addressed if your tires are hanging out off center. Did a drop down bracket get installed? The oem frame bolt for the track bar wears out the rubber encased bushing extremely fast. Partially due to the fact that the bolts threads are inside the bushing of the track bar and grinds it away. Getting a quality adjustable track bar is a must, I have a Pure Performance along with a custom made frame side bolt that's entire shoulder in the eye is smooth solid grade 8 steel. I machined it in the lathe with .010 clearance through eyelet bushing. The oem bolt had .085 slop plus the thread issue. Yea it's a issue.

Don't mean to go off here but you are working with a brand new truck it deserves a quality lift. You are going to end up throwing it all out before your done I'm afraid. I certainly did........


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Last edited by mhatlen; 03-29-2014 at 07:11 PM.
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-29-2014, 09:00 PM
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These are the replacment arms I would run on these trucks. Don't worry about running drop brackets.

2001 - 14" OUO 525 - 38x15.5x20 Toyo & 20x12 Weld Cheyenne's. Hybrids, 38R, BTS, Spearco, Terminators..



Quote of the Day:
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Originally Posted by Mannysouza View Post
You will get some axle wrap with a heavy trailer, I can feel it when towing my gooseneck with some heavy equipment. My Deavers will wrap enough to make the tires rub the front of the rear fender well if I give it too much throttle on aceleration.
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