Ultrapower parts, Anyone using them? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 08:08 AM Thread Starter
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Question Ultrapower parts, Anyone using them?

Hey everyone, I took my X into an alignment shop where I really trust the guys, he said before I get it aligned I had one ball joint with a little bit of slop (lower left) he suggested replacing the upper and the lower when I had everything apart, although I will probably do both sides just because. He also suggested replacing my steering arm tierods and sleeve, they were in good shape still and the upper was still in good shape also, but there was a lot of rust on the threads near the sleeve and he told me its common for him to try to make an adjustment and not be able to due to the threads just being eaten away from rust, for this reason he said I "may" want to replace the tierods and sleve (he said the fine threads they use are terrible). I could risk it and he can try to adjsut it, but he wanted to forewarn me. I am planning on taking the X on a 4000+ mile roadtrip this summer and would rather replace parts now then on the side of the road during my trip.

His sugestion for ball joints was to use Moog brand, he said they are good quality and arent overly stiff, and thats what he uses on his own truck.

So I stopped at local autoparts joint and got pricing:

x2 Moog K80026 - Ball Joint (Upper) - $105.54
x2 Moog K8607T - Ball Joint (Lower) - $161.34
X1 Moog ES3422S - Adjustable Sleev - $21.72
X1 Moog DS1439 - Tierod End (long) - $156.46
X1 Moog ES3423 - Tierod End (short) - $69.30
Shipping - None
Total - $545.22


Then I checked out rockauto for the same parts: RockAuto Parts Catalog

x2 Moog K80026 - Ball Joint (Upper) - $57.58
x2 Moog K8607T - Ball Joint (Lower) - $87.98
X1 Moog ES3422S - Adjustable Sleev - $11.77
X1 Moog DS1439 - Tierod End (long) - $84.79
X1 Moog ES3423 - Tierod End (short) - $37.79
Shipping - $33.98
Total - $313.89


Then I checked Amazon Prime with free 2 day shipping

x2 Moog K80026 - Ball Joint (Upper) - $18.49
x2 Moog K8607T - Ball Joint (Lower) - $44.34
X1 Moog ES3422S - Adjustable Sleev - $15.04
X1 Moog DS1439 - Tierod End (long) - $91.73
X1 Moog ES3423 - Tierod End (short) - $44.55
Shipping - Free 2-day
Total - $276.98



So I am leaning towards ordering it from AMAZON, but decided to check out RockAutos "Off brand" and see what cost difference was:

x2 ULTRAPOWER K80026 - Ball Joint (Upper) - $15.46
x2 ULTRAPOWER K8607T - Ball Joint (Lower) - $18.06
X1 ULTRAPOWER DS1439 - Tierod End (long) - $43.79
X1 ULTRAPOWER ES3423 - Tierod End (short) - $18.58
Shipping - $18.47
Total - $114.36
*No sleeve, would order moog from Amazon @ 15.04 with free shipping
Grand Total - $129.40



So I guess usually I lean towards cheapest available parts, but I am also thinking the moog parts are probably better quality... Then Again, the price is so great on those other ones is the moog really worth the extra cash?

Not trying to make a Moog vs another brand type thread, but just want to inform that my decision is between moog or cheapest available and the cheapest available is ULTRAPOWER, I am hoping to get some feedback on the ULTRAPOWER brand (good or bad) to help me make a better informed deciscion. I already know the Moog is a good brand, and I already know of other brands out there like XPS, so please refrain from the "I use moog and they are really great" or "try XPS instead" replys, because there is a lot of other threads covering that info. Lets try to keep this centered on this ultra power brand and if anyone has experience with them.

Thanks Gents
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post #2 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 09:17 AM
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I know you said to keep this limited to those that have used that unkown brand (and good luck with that), but seriously..for the amount of work it is to replace the balljoints..why try to "cheap out" on it? I completely understand shopping around for parts, but these parts aren't that cheap to replace again (especially if you have a 4x4).

As an edit: You may even want to take a look at the Motorcraft/Ford balljoints also. Think how long they lasted the first time...and then think if the aftermarket ones could do better.

If you are replacing balljoints and have a 4x4:
You should seriously consider replacing the u-joints on the front axles at this time. The u-joints wear pattern is limited to the typical turning radius that they see. When the knuckle is removed, the u-joint will flex beyond that area. Once this happens (speaking from experience) your u-joints will not last very long at all.

You will need knuckle seals (sold each, need 2, part number 5C3Z-3254-AA) and o-rings (sold each, need 2, part number 5C3Z-4A322-AA).

This would be a good time to rid yourself from the "hula hoops" that are typically on the front axle tube as a result of failed axle tube dust seals (see first pic below).
There is a new(er) upgraded axle tube dust seal that Ford came out with in the last couple years that FINALLY address the problem that made them fail so easily/frequent.
The new dust seal is part number AC3Z-1S175-A (sold each, need 2).
You have to make sure that, whoever installs these seals, remove the rust on the axle shafts before pushing the axle through the seal (or the rust will act as an abrasive and tear into your new seal).

First, the typical seal failure:



Now the upgraded part (installed):


Last edited by NYC F-350; 02-03-2014 at 09:25 AM.
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post #3 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
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NYC, thanks for the good reply. I am thinking I will probably just buy the moogs, the reason behind this is I have spent the last few hours looking up how-to change the ball joints and its a bit more involved then other cars I have owned. I have replaced a few dozen ball joints but usually it has been on cars or trucks with CV axles (or halfshafts, whatever you want to call them) and you can just disconnect it from the hub and push the CV out of the way, pretty quick and painless. Now that I see this is a bit more time involved and you have to remove the hubs and how the axles come out. I am going for longevity over price. If it was an easier replacement I would probably go with the cheaper parts.

I am still interested in hearing if anyone uses these, but I will not be.

I now know I will also need 2 new "yellow o-rings" and dust seals (2 different kinds, each side)

I will probably but the moog setup from Amazon, now just shopping around for them seals.

*Caught the Diesel bug*
2000 VW Jetta TDI 1.9L ALH Diesel
- New head, timing belt, waterpump, etc; 5-speed swap, oversized 5th gear, New Yokohama 90k mile tires

2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4, 7.3 PSD.
- Had a lift and big tires when I bought it
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post #4 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 10:03 AM
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I see now that you may be talking about your 2000 Excursion, (I didn't pay attention to your signature). I assumed you had the 05-up 4x4 system, and I am not sure if those part numbers would be the same for you. Please verify before purchase.
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post #5 of 8 Old 02-03-2014, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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I do believe it is a different part number, but appreciate your input none the less

*Caught the Diesel bug*
2000 VW Jetta TDI 1.9L ALH Diesel
- New head, timing belt, waterpump, etc; 5-speed swap, oversized 5th gear, New Yokohama 90k mile tires

2000 Ford Excursion Limited 4x4, 7.3 PSD.
- Had a lift and big tires when I bought it
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post #6 of 8 Old 02-05-2014, 12:09 PM
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For what it is worth my Moog ball joints didn't hold up well at all. My XRF joints have been far superior and were much cheaper.

2014 F150 SCREW XLT 4x4 Ecoboost.
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post #7 of 8 Old 02-05-2014, 12:49 PM
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My XRF balljoints did not last 30,000 miles. Had to replace all 4 of them. Went with MOOG problem savers 2 years ago. No problems.
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-27-2016, 06:43 AM
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1978 Ford Ranchero----Ultra-power tie rod ends. Should Grease zerts be installed on new units before installing on vech? If so what is the procedure?
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