Drive Shaft - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 61 Old 12-02-2013, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Drive Shaft

I am going to a driveline store today and want to make sure I have all of my duck in a row. I have an 07 CCSB 4wd and going to have them make a 1 piece drive shaft. Talking to them over the phone they want to make it 4" because of the length. The stock 2 piece drive shaft looks like there is a flange at both ends of the drive shaft with no slip yoke at the transfer case. Is this even possible?

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post #2 of 61 Old 12-02-2013, 07:32 AM
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the slip is near the carrier bearing

you will need the same setup minus the carrier
they will probably put the slip near the upper flange

take your truck in for them to look at IMHO it is your safest bet

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post #3 of 61 Old 12-02-2013, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMANN View Post
the slip is near the carrier bearing

you will need the same setup minus the carrier
they will probably put the slip near the upper flange

take your truck in for them to look at IMHO it is your safest bet
Thanks Zmann. Figured it out but couldn't update from my phone. Took it in for them to look at and they want me to fix my pinion angle first. They measured all my angles and told me what they should be set at. They were super nice and trying to save me some money. Didn't even charge me for checking all the angles and said if I fix the angles I might not even need a new shaft. ....We'll see, I sure hope not.

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post #4 of 61 Old 12-02-2013, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, adjusted my pinion angle and still vibrates, changed shims on carrier bearing, still vibrates, done several combinations of the 2 and it still vibrates. No matter what I change I get a vibration at around 50 mph, nothing I have changed makes it worse or better. Shouldn't changing shims on the axle or bearing change the speed or severity of the vibration?

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post #5 of 61 Old 12-03-2013, 09:59 AM
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U-joints? How about rotating some tires or check to see if they are all balanced up.
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post #6 of 61 Old 12-03-2013, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, rotated tires, still there. Will be ordering a one piece driveshaft tomorrow.

2007 Lariat Crew Fx4, 20x9 D.E.J Wheels, 37x13.50, Toyo MTs, 6" Lift, Billet grill, '08 Mirrors, 4" TB Diamond Eye, AFE CAI, PMM coolant filter, Blue spring mod, Scangauge II, Pod mount FP gauge, SCT X3 - Looney tune
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post #7 of 61 Old 12-04-2013, 07:38 AM
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Are you stacking shims or clocking the carrier bearing? Stacking shims will destroy a cb. You are trying to put an angle where it was never meant to be. Clocking the cb keeps it straight and removes vibration. I think OUO has a piece to do this.

Look at the carrier bearings on a large moving truck, they are clock (perpendicular to driveshaft centerline.

A 4" shaft is needed because anything smaller will act like a jump rope at that length and self destruct.

In the end, clocking the cb will be cheaper, safer, and just as effective as a 4" one piece.

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post #8 of 61 Old 12-04-2013, 08:01 AM
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Have you tried replacing the carrier bearing

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post #9 of 61 Old 12-04-2013, 08:31 AM
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not sure I would use the term "clocking" if your referring to
matching the carrier bearing angle to match the drive shaft? you can clock the front transfer case to help the front shaft but the rear CB is more of matching angles

He's ordered the 1 peice so He will know soon enough if He has a problem somewhere else

I just used a carrier bearing drop bracket that let you align everything and had no issue



I will say that was nice of the shop to spend the time on your angles

06 KR 4x4 BPD remote OEM Oil cooler /EGR cooler/water pump6 phase FICM , ARP studs,
Rize 4 link Toyo 37" camper modified special
For a truly terrible firearm experience I suggest Taurus

Last edited by ZMANN; 12-04-2013 at 08:34 AM.
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post #10 of 61 Old 12-04-2013, 11:00 AM
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That would be the part I meant. Rotate, clock, however you want to say that you're maintaining a straight line through the carrier bearing.

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TRICO Force wiper blades
Yellow Military Aircraft Valve Stem Caps
Offensive "Stick Family" Decal
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