replacing castor bushings...... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 08-28-2013, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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replacing castor bushings......

How difficult is it to replace the factory castor bushings with the Carli or Icon bushings? I'm considering a 2-1/2" Carli or Icon leveling kit on my 2013 Super Duty 6.7. I don't think the install will be that tough except for the bushing change. I've installed several lifts on Toyotas but I've never attempted any ball joint work on a Ford. My truck has only 500 miles so nothing should be seized or rusted. Suggestions, help and advice appreciated.
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post #2 of 4 Old 08-29-2013, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by highmileage View Post
How difficult is it to replace the factory castor bushings with the Carli or Icon bushings? I'm considering a 2-1/2" Carli or Icon leveling kit on my 2013 Super Duty 6.7. I don't think the install will be that tough except for the bushing change. I've installed several lifts on Toyotas but I've never attempted any ball joint work on a Ford. My truck has only 500 miles so nothing should be seized or rusted. Suggestions, help and advice appreciated.
Easy....

1 - Jack truck up and support axle with jack stands.
2 - Remove wheel and tire.
3 - Remove cotter pin and upper ball joint retaining nut
4 - Remove the factory sleeve sandwiched between the knuckle and the ball joint.
5 - Install adjusted caster sleeve onto ball joint ensuring proper orientation. (usually thicker side to the front).
6 - Hold the adjustment collar with a wrench while torquing the ball joint nut to factory spec ensuring the adjustment shim orientation remains the same (doesn't twist).
7 - Install new cotter pin
8 - Install wheel and tire and repeat on the other side.
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post #3 of 4 Old 08-29-2013, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by OCVeloMan View Post
Easy....

1 - Jack truck up and support axle with jack stands.
2 - Remove wheel and tire.
3 - Remove cotter pin and upper ball joint retaining nut
4 - Remove the factory sleeve sandwiched between the knuckle and the ball joint.
5 - Install adjusted caster sleeve onto ball joint ensuring proper orientation. (usually thicker side to the front).
6 - Hold the adjustment collar with a wrench while torquing the ball joint nut to factory spec ensuring the adjustment shim orientation remains the same (doesn't twist).
7 - Install new cotter pin
8 - Install wheel and tire and repeat on the other side.
It's even easier to toss them at the alignment tech and have them put them in when you take the truck in for the alignment.



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post #4 of 4 Old 08-29-2013, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys !!
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