I had 2" add-a-leaf + 3" hangers with a five inch rear block and it was tail low. I ditched all of the bolcks for a Pro Comp 6" rear spring and it was about right.
What did I learn? If you are going to do your own lift, take GOOD measurements and not guess what's going to work. The next time I lift one, I'm buying a lift kit and be done with it!
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Thanks for the input. Maybe your rear springs were sagging, idk. Did you take measurements or was it just obvious?
Let me share my experience. I wanted to maintain the best ride possible for the least amount of money.
The only reason why I bought new oem is cause I wanted a fresh start on the suspension and I though mine might be worn out, but the new springs made no difference.
I used brand new oem v code front springs and pmf 4in front hanger kit. Put 3in blocks on top of my 2in blocks. Rear was still quite a bit higher, 2.5in difference in wheel well openings and looked obvious that the rear was still high.
Added new rear top overloads to the new front springs. Rear measures around 1-1/4" higher still by measurements. To the eye its close but if you really look at it on flat ground, there is a very slight slope/rake.
I guess every case can be different. I also didn't want the added stiffness from lift springs, my c codes are stiff enough. Oem is also cheaper than lift springs from what ive found. Lift kits ive seen also make the trucks look higher in the front from what ive seen as well. Not always but a lot of times. Thats my 2 cents.
After doing it this time, I know what I need if I had to do it again. I have heard typically you want 1in higher in the rear to appear level, but not from my recent experience with my truck.
Im also going to do traction blocks, so I want to be absolutely certain of what size block I want to run.
Sorry for the long post, got carried away