Grinding Noise Front Passenger Wheel - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 26 Old 03-09-2013, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
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Grinding Noise Front Passenger Wheel

So about 2 weeks ago I was driving my truck and it was making a grinding metal on metal noise. It sounded to be every few rotations. I looked at the inside of the wheel, some how the heat shield got pushed up against the rotor.

I bent it back out the best I could without taking the wheel off. Drove it the other day and it didn't make any noises. Today I go to take it out, (about a week n a half without driving it), and it doesnt make any noises. Drive to the gas station, fill it up some, get it up to about 60mph. no noises. Then when coming home, it starts making the noise again. But very random. I cant tell if its making it when I'm getting on the pedal due to exhaust, but when coasting itll randomly make the noise. or if at cruising speed (like 15-25) itll randomly make the noise. Coming to a stop it sometimes makes the noise. I really cant figure it out. I need my truck back so I can start hauling stuff again. Can ANYONE help me out?? ( Oh yeah. The truck is 4wd, with the front hubs locked right now. Thought it was the needle bearing but it still makes the noise with the hubs locked.)

I've jacked it up and checked for looseness of all parts, drove with the hubs locked and not locked. I really cant figure it out. Does anyone have any advice or things to check out. i REALLY need to get this fixed ASAP. Thanks in advance

Tony Smith

2006 F250 Fummins with Allison Transmission
Fully loaded with all the goodies

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post #2 of 26 Old 03-09-2013, 04:33 PM
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So, it makes that noise with the hubs Locked?

If so, are you Sure they are locking? (jack up each side and check)
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post #3 of 26 Old 03-09-2013, 11:28 PM Thread Starter
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I never thought to check and see if they were actually locking. I just jumped the gun and assumed they were. The first time I heard the noise I had locked them and the noise went away. Now with them "locked" the noise is back. Ill jack it up tomorrow and see what is up with them and if theyre locking or not. Thanks for the tip, Ill update after

Tony Smith

2006 F250 Fummins with Allison Transmission
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Dreaming of: Injectors, Twin turbos, Dual cp3s, and all new custom tunes

Planning for: 2011+ front end conversion and American Force rims
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post #4 of 26 Old 03-10-2013, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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So when I jacked up the front end and locked the hubs. When I spin one wheel, the other doesnt spin, but the front drive shaft does spin. So I guess they are locking. But I noticed that my tire has some top to bottom movement. Not a lot, but I think enough to cause some grinding upon bumps and turns in the road. Im going to pull the assembly tomorrow or tuesday and check to make sure everything is tight and probably throw in a new needle bearing as well for added security. I really hope this is the problem.

Tony Smith

2006 F250 Fummins with Allison Transmission
Fully loaded with all the goodies

Dreaming of: Injectors, Twin turbos, Dual cp3s, and all new custom tunes

Planning for: 2011+ front end conversion and American Force rims
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post #5 of 26 Old 03-11-2013, 11:57 AM
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Go to partsgeek.com. same items, lower prices and much lower shipping costs. I priced up stuff from rockauto and it was gonna be almost 500 to my door (60 for shipping). Same stuff from parts geek and upgraded to EBC slotted rotors and pads (for my car) $380 to my door (8 bucks for shipping)..

FRANK THE TANK
DIY INTAKE - HYDRA CHIP - MARTY'S E-FUEL - 250/200s
05 AXLE SWAP 3.73 - 2.5" PURE PERF. LIFT COILS - FOX SHOCKS
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You are so smart Frank, I dont care what Terry says.
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post #6 of 26 Old 03-11-2013, 12:26 PM
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They have timken bearings for under 200, and motorcraft for under 300

01 2001 Ford F350 Super Duty Wheel Hub Assembly - Driveshaft & Axle - First Equipment Quality, Motorcraft, National, PartsMaster, Pronto, Replacement, Timken, Front - PartsGeek

FRANK THE TANK
DIY INTAKE - HYDRA CHIP - MARTY'S E-FUEL - 250/200s
05 AXLE SWAP 3.73 - 2.5" PURE PERF. LIFT COILS - FOX SHOCKS
BTS TRANS - TYMAR DOWN PIPE - 4" EXHAUST
Waiting To Be Installed... gtx4294r, studs, springs, HPOP?
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You are so smart Frank, I dont care what Terry says.
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post #7 of 26 Old 03-11-2013, 12:37 PM
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I deleted ALL of those AFU posts I made. I was going to try to edit them back to what they should have been, but sometimes you should just kill it.

Thanks, ol Blue97 for the info. I'm going to put my helmet on and sit in the back of the bus for awhile.

Karl and his 2003 6.0

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WHAT!?! I was trying to list stuff that everyone else
hasn't already listed for their truck!




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post #8 of 26 Old 03-11-2013, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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So what are you guys suggesting that I order and replace? The driver side is nice and tight and makes no noise whats so ever and has no play in it. The passenger side is the problem. So what do you guys think I should order to replace? Just the needle bearings and o-rings or something else? I REALLY appreciate the replies. Im not very good with axles and stuff like this haha

Tony Smith

2006 F250 Fummins with Allison Transmission
Fully loaded with all the goodies

Dreaming of: Injectors, Twin turbos, Dual cp3s, and all new custom tunes

Planning for: 2011+ front end conversion and American Force rims
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post #9 of 26 Old 03-11-2013, 12:46 PM
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If the needle bearing that you are referring to are on the outer axle, behind the hub, refer to ol Blue97's link for bearings, that is a SMOKING price for Timekin bearings.

Up and down movement can be ball joints or bearings. Have someone move the tire and watch the ball joints for movement for an answer.

Karl and his 2003 6.0

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WHAT!?! I was trying to list stuff that everyone else
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post #10 of 26 Old 03-11-2013, 12:53 PM
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If u have play up and down on the wheel, your bearing is most likely bad. Check your ball joints too. Or just replace them while u have it apart. I would also pull you axle shaft and replace your u-joints with SPICER and or higher grade joints, nothing comes to mind but im sure they are out there (Not percision, neapco, or cheepys).

Id at a minimum replace your wheel bearing hub, u-joints, and all your seals, dust seals, and hub o-rings. U may destroy your hub getting it off so be prepared for that, and u need a special driving tool to drive the large vacuum seal on or make your own, DO NOT try to tap on with a hammer like normal seals as the tolerance is too tight. There is also a special hub removal tool that attaches to a slide hammer if it is seized. I will try to find a link for ya on the two tools.

If it was me... while its apart i would replace your ball joints since your most of the way there and ANTI-SEIZE everything, every contacting surface and every nut and every bolt.

Vacuum seal driver for 99-04 (05+ uses a bigger driver for a bigger seal just FYI)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015PKC5W/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1363032211&sr=8-1&pi=SL75 http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015PKC5W/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1363032211&sr=8-1&pi=SL75


Here is the 4x4 hub puller... altho u may just want to destroy them and replace them and u may not have any problems what so ever removing them
http://www.quad4x4.com/cgi-bin/comme...acton&key=1124



And just a lot of good info and part numbers in here with links.
http://quad4x4.com/ford60f1999-2004f250-350.html

FRANK THE TANK
DIY INTAKE - HYDRA CHIP - MARTY'S E-FUEL - 250/200s
05 AXLE SWAP 3.73 - 2.5" PURE PERF. LIFT COILS - FOX SHOCKS
BTS TRANS - TYMAR DOWN PIPE - 4" EXHAUST
Waiting To Be Installed... gtx4294r, studs, springs, HPOP?
Quote:
Originally Posted by STROKED_NY_023 View Post
You are so smart Frank, I dont care what Terry says.

Last edited by ol_Blue97; 03-11-2013 at 01:16 PM.
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