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post #1 of 10 Old 03-07-2013, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Replacing Ball joints and tie rod ends

Iam in need of new passenger side upper and lower ball joints and all outer tie rod ends I am thinking about doing all moog problem solver greasable parts. Rock auto seems to be the cheapest on the Moog parts what brands are you guys all running?

2005 FORD F250 CREWCAB LARIAT
9 INCH LIFT
37x13.50x20 TOYO M/T'S
PMF TRACTION BLOCKS AND BARS
MBRP 4 INCH TURBO BACK
ARP'S,STAND PIPE'S, DUMMY PLUGS ALL THE UPDATES
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-07-2013, 10:07 AM
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I used Moog Problem Solver upers and lowers on my 2003, I couldn't see trusting my 6 year investment to some Circle K $35 ball joints.

As long as you're in there, may as well do both sides and get it over with, I did.

Karl and his 2003 6.0

Barefoot Accelerator Pedal
TRICO Force wiper blades
Yellow Military Aircraft Valve Stem Caps
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post #3 of 10 Old 03-07-2013, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah I already did the drivers side with Moogs upper and lower, But I am wondering what other options that are out there or opinions.

2005 FORD F250 CREWCAB LARIAT
9 INCH LIFT
37x13.50x20 TOYO M/T'S
PMF TRACTION BLOCKS AND BARS
MBRP 4 INCH TURBO BACK
ARP'S,STAND PIPE'S, DUMMY PLUGS ALL THE UPDATES
SCT LIVEWIRE SRLxx
2008 SUPERDUTY TAILLIGHTS
OPT7 LED HEADLIGHTS AND FOG'S, 50 INCH LED BAR
AMP RESEARCH POWER STEP'S
AIR BAG'S TRAIN HORNS AND AIR COMPRESSOR
CUSTOM STEREO
XDP COOLANT FILTER
PSC HYDRAULIC ASSIST STEERING
RCD EGR DELETE
EXCURSION CENTER CONSOLE
2007 REAR VIEW MIRROR AND MIRROR SWITCH UPGRADE
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-07-2013, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banshee-rider View Post
Yeah I already did the drivers side with Moogs upper and lower.
In that case, I would DEFINITELY use the same Moog on the other side.

Karl and his 2003 6.0

Barefoot Accelerator Pedal
TRICO Force wiper blades
Yellow Military Aircraft Valve Stem Caps
Offensive "Stick Family" Decal
Big Ol'Honkin 1 1/4" Shank Receiver Hitch


WHAT!?! I was trying to list stuff that everyone else
hasn't already listed for their truck!




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post #5 of 10 Old 03-07-2013, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Cool thanks for the input man!

2005 FORD F250 CREWCAB LARIAT
9 INCH LIFT
37x13.50x20 TOYO M/T'S
PMF TRACTION BLOCKS AND BARS
MBRP 4 INCH TURBO BACK
ARP'S,STAND PIPE'S, DUMMY PLUGS ALL THE UPDATES
SCT LIVEWIRE SRLxx
2008 SUPERDUTY TAILLIGHTS
OPT7 LED HEADLIGHTS AND FOG'S, 50 INCH LED BAR
AMP RESEARCH POWER STEP'S
AIR BAG'S TRAIN HORNS AND AIR COMPRESSOR
CUSTOM STEREO
XDP COOLANT FILTER
PSC HYDRAULIC ASSIST STEERING
RCD EGR DELETE
EXCURSION CENTER CONSOLE
2007 REAR VIEW MIRROR AND MIRROR SWITCH UPGRADE
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-08-2013, 08:49 PM
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never checked rock auto but check amazon.com almost half the price oreilly wanted
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post #7 of 10 Old 03-08-2013, 08:54 PM
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Re: Replacing Ball joints and tie rod ends

Rock auto has some that are far less than what I paid, too, but I'm not trusting my truck to $15 ball joints. I can be hard on my truck and that's when you seperate the good parts from the garbage. Definitely don't want to launch your Souper Doody on cheap parts.

I don't try to, but it happens none the less.

Sent from my LG-VS700 using AutoGuide.Com Free App

Karl and his 2003 6.0

Barefoot Accelerator Pedal
TRICO Force wiper blades
Yellow Military Aircraft Valve Stem Caps
Offensive "Stick Family" Decal
Big Ol'Honkin 1 1/4" Shank Receiver Hitch


WHAT!?! I was trying to list stuff that everyone else
hasn't already listed for their truck!




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post #8 of 10 Old 03-11-2013, 10:59 AM
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Look into XFR ball joints, or even the greasable motorcraft joints.... If u stay with MOOG go to partsgeek.com. prices are slightly lower then rockauto and shipping is far less.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...all_joint.html

FRANK THE TANK
DIY INTAKE - HYDRA CHIP - MARTY'S E-FUEL - 250/200s
05 AXLE SWAP 3.73 - 2.5" PURE PERF. LIFT COILS - FOX SHOCKS
BTS TRANS - TYMAR DOWN PIPE - 4" EXHAUST
Waiting To Be Installed... gtx4294r, studs, springs, HPOP?
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You are so smart Frank, I dont care what Terry says.

Last edited by ol_Blue97; 03-11-2013 at 11:21 AM.
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post #9 of 10 Old 03-11-2013, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol_Blue97 View Post
Look into XFR ball joints. If u stay with MOOG go to partsgeek.com. prices are slightly lower then rockauto and shipping is far less.
I tried XRF, both upper and lowers on both sides, 2 years ago.
Last year, I had to replace the upper and lower on the drivers side again..so instead of wondering when the other two would fail, I replaced them with Moog. If these fail anytime soon, I will drop the cash for the dynatracs.
Hate doing the same job every year or two.
Not saying the XRF are junk, just that my experience was less than stellar.
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post #10 of 10 Old 03-11-2013, 11:30 AM
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Thats good to know..... Those dynatrc joints are awesome but $$$$, in your case doint the job twice and having to replace seals every time u do it, u would have broke even most likely.

Ive never had a problem with MOOG joints in the past but it does seem their product is changing. More and more i think about it, i may just stick with motorcraft as i know they usually last 80-100k and that all i will put on ball joints regardless if they are still goof or not.... well except the dynatracs.

FRANK THE TANK
DIY INTAKE - HYDRA CHIP - MARTY'S E-FUEL - 250/200s
05 AXLE SWAP 3.73 - 2.5" PURE PERF. LIFT COILS - FOX SHOCKS
BTS TRANS - TYMAR DOWN PIPE - 4" EXHAUST
Waiting To Be Installed... gtx4294r, studs, springs, HPOP?
Quote:
Originally Posted by STROKED_NY_023 View Post
You are so smart Frank, I dont care what Terry says.
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