used lift kit

[00Turbo444]

I just picked up a used 8 inch lift kit. I know I need the drop pitman arm and trac bar bracket. I should probably replace the u bolts and the leaf spring bushings. Any tips on where I should order these parts and any pointers for install would help too. Thanks

[englewoodcowboy]

I would suggest finding a spring shop near you. Who knows what size bushings are in the existing springs and a shop that deals with that stuff daily would stand a good chance of having everything in stock and you can get them to press them in. If they are urethane, you can pry them out and contact the MFG and see about getting a new set. If your U-bolts are in good shape I dont personally see a need to replace unless you want too. I know places say you should but on the 99-04 trucks they also say not to use blocks for the front lift/leveling. I have seen many trucks with the blocks, mine has had them since new (160K on the odometer) and they are still right where they belong, no signs of wear and I have had my truck running over 100mph sustained several times and it handled beautifully. I have yet to see a failure in normal every day use. If you are heavy off road, then you might want to reconsider. I went with a 3" block front and rear to clear 315's. The taller tire reduced my final gear ratio (stock is 373) and improved my mpg by 2.

[maddawg89]

Dang.... I would have traded you the stock running from yours for my 8in.....

[Karls03]

I've been under mine way too many times, here are some things that came to mind to help out.

A good visual of the bushings should answer your question there. I bought used springs and didn't change the bushings, no issues.

If the u-bolts aren't twisted or otherwise mangled, use them. Although a thread chaser would be advisable to clean them.

I would avoid stacking blocks in the rear, I've seen them get spit out. No reputable suspension builder is ever going to use blocks under the front springs.

I would start at Top Gun Customz for the pitman arm and track bar bracket. As for the sway bar links, flipping the mounts to the bottom of the frame will get you a couple of inches of drop. Tough Country includes this in their instructions for some of their lifts.

If you don't have a carrier bearing drop you're probably going to need one. DO NOT use one that simply shoves the bearing straight down, you will be buying a new bearing. The bearing needs to be clocked to maintain driveshaft angle. OUO (one up off road) sells a nice carrier bearing drop/clocking bracket.

Remove the front bumper and a cooler bracket (7 or 8mm I think) to get the leaf spring bolts out. I recommend either a HUGE helper, or a long breaker bar, those suckers are tight! Those cooler bracket bolts can be a real PITA to put back in.


My final tip, find a friend or two to help, re-centering that front axle after changing leaf springs SUCKS! Leave the shackles loose until the axle is on the springs, then tighten up the shackles. You're gonna need some movement in the shackles to mount the axle.

[00Turbo444]

Thanks for the help guys lots of good info. I got my pitman arm and track bar bracket in today. Probably next weekend I will install. I got some carrier bearing shims with the kit. I have an sc/sb I think I have a one piece drive shaft do I still need them?


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[Karls03]

4 door short bed will have carrier bearing, extended cab short bed (my truck) does not. If those shims don't clock the bearing as they drop it then they are going to accelerate the wear on the bearing.

It's hard to explain typing, but when you get under there you will figure it out. If nothing else, look at the long box trucks that have 2 or 3 carrier bearings, they are not vertical, they are clocked back to not destroy the bearings.

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[00Turbo444]

Thanks ill crawl under there tomorrow and take a look. Gonna try and get everything painted this weekend


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