Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fallon, Nv
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I've been under mine way too many times, here are some things that came to mind to help out.
A good visual of the bushings should answer your question there. I bought used springs and didn't change the bushings, no issues.
If the u-bolts aren't twisted or otherwise mangled, use them. Although a thread chaser would be advisable to clean them.
I would avoid stacking blocks in the rear, I've seen them get spit out. No reputable suspension builder is ever going to use blocks under the front springs.
I would start at Top Gun Customz for the pitman arm and track bar bracket. As for the sway bar links, flipping the mounts to the bottom of the frame will get you a couple of inches of drop. Tough Country includes this in their instructions for some of their lifts.
If you don't have a carrier bearing drop you're probably going to need one. DO NOT use one that simply shoves the bearing straight down, you will be buying a new bearing. The bearing needs to be clocked to maintain driveshaft angle. OUO (one up off road) sells a nice carrier bearing drop/clocking bracket.
Remove the front bumper and a cooler bracket (7 or 8mm I think) to get the leaf spring bolts out. I recommend either a HUGE helper, or a long breaker bar, those suckers are tight! Those cooler bracket bolts can be a real PITA to put back in.
My final tip, find a friend or two to help, re-centering that front axle after changing leaf springs SUCKS! Leave the shackles loose until the axle is on the springs, then tighten up the shackles. You're gonna need some movement in the shackles to mount the axle.
Karl and his 2003 6.0
Barefoot Accelerator Pedal
TRICO Force wiper blades
Yellow Military Aircraft Valve Stem Caps
Offensive "Stick Family" Decal
Big Ol'Honkin 1 1/4" Shank Receiver Hitch
WHAT!?! I was trying to list stuff that everyone else
hasn't already listed for their truck!
Last edited by Karls03; 02-21-2013 at 11:47 AM.