Leveling kit accessories - how do I install the cams and trac bar? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-07-2013, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
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Leveling kit accessories - how do I install the cams and trac bar?

I installed a set of 2.5" Icon springs and a set of Bilstein 5100s yesterday on the front of my '06. We ran out of time to do the alignment cams and trac bar though because we weren't quite sure how to go about either. It turns out that I don't have tools big enough for the trac bar anyway...

So here are my questions -

On the cams, once you remove the top ball joint nut, how do you get the original cam out from around the ball joint stud? Does it just pop out? Any tips/tricks?

On the trac bar, what size tools do I need? That is some BIG hardware on this thing!! Any tips/tricks for this one?

I'm hoping to knock both of these things out next Saturday and then be done with the front end!
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-08-2013, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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No one here has done this before?
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post #3 of 9 Old 01-08-2013, 07:11 AM
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Cams pop out easy.

Track bar needs 400+ ft lbs so use a 3-4' extension and give it hell

Get a 3/4" sliding T and a 1 3/16 socket with a adapter if a 1/2" drive, see picture
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post #4 of 9 Old 01-08-2013, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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Good to know on the cams. I'm going to go in search of tools later this week and will be picking up a 30mm socket (per the BD instructions) and a hopefully a something with a 3/4" drive for it. do I have to put a wrench on the backside of the track bar bolt?

Just for curiosity, how much torque can a 1/2" drive ratchet usually handle? The ones that I have are Craftsman, if that matters.
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-08-2013, 11:45 AM
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You need what I showed...back of the frame track bar bold usually has a built in stop so no wrench will be needed.
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-09-2013, 05:13 PM
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The cams dont always just pop out. The get corroded and rust and I have even seen it where the spindle had to be removed to drive cam out from the back. But there is a special tool to pull those cams out , it slides around the ears of the cam and uses a bolt thru center that pushes against the balljoint and then it is easy. When i did mine at home I had to use an air hammer. Jim

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post #7 of 9 Old 01-09-2013, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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That is what I was afraid of! I'm going to take the ball joint nut off Saturday morning and see what I'm dealing with. I guess the idea is that you just have to pry under the lip of the old cam, and it pops out, right? By air hammer, do you mean air chisel? If I can't get it out without too much trouble, I'll just save them and let an alignment shop mess with them, since I plan on getting it aligned when I get new tires anyway.

I picked up a 3/4" breaker bar and a 1 3/16" socket, so I should be all set to do the track bar this weekend as well. I'm hoping that my 2 jaw gear puller will be enough to break the taper on the passenger side of the track bar. If so, it shouldn't take too long at all to replace the whole thing.
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post #8 of 9 Old 01-09-2013, 05:30 PM
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Yes air chisel, Not uncommon for them to come out HARD. Borrow or rent the tool. JIM

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post #9 of 9 Old 02-04-2013, 06:40 AM Thread Starter
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Well, I finally got around to working on the front end of my truck. Installing the adjustable track bar wasn't too terribly difficult. It was actually harder to put the new track bar together (the bushing is a bear to get in!) than it was to put it on the truck. I used a two jaw puller to get the old track bar off, and then just installed the new one. A big 3/4 drive ratchet, a piece of pipe, and some muscle got it all back together.

The alignment cams, however, are a different story. I couldn't get the passenger side one to budge at all, and ended up breaking off part of the ear. I stopped at that point so that I didn't do any more damage. Hopefully the alignment shop can get it out and put the new ones in without too much issue.

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