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Suspension & Steering Discuss OEM & aftermarket suspension, lifts, air ride suspension, shocks, steering components, etc.

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post #1 of 17 Old 03-08-2012, 06:10 PM Thread Starter
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noob questions

I bought a 2007 F250 with a 6" fabtech lift. They installed the 6" in the front and put a 4" block in the back so the rear end sits 2" lower. (basic math yes i know haha)

I want to level the truck out without the consequences of axle wrap. What is the best method?

I'm thinking completely removing the 4" block and purchasing a set of 6" leaf springs, found here: Pro Comp Part No. 23311 - Leaf Springs

I know I will need to purchase new shorter u-bolts, any suggestions as to which ones?

Or should I scratch the idea of a leaf spring and removal of 4" block and just purchase a 6" block or stack a 2" on top of my 4"?

I don't know what is best.

When doing this will I need to do anything else to the truck? pinion angles, longer drive shaft, etc.

I'm new to diesels and fords and I just want to do it right.

Thanks.
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post #2 of 17 Old 03-08-2012, 07:43 PM
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you can put an add a leaf in the rear. get a zero rate, or get a 1" block to stack on top. and no block stacking isnt bad. tall blocks (single or stacked) = longer u bolts which isnt good when off roading. if its only a street truck then you'll be fine with a block imo


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post #3 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 05:34 AM
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PMF traction blocks or leaf springs.
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post #4 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JD_MILLS View Post
you can put an add a leaf in the rear. get a zero rate, or get a 1" block to stack on top. and no block stacking isnt bad. tall blocks (single or stacked) = longer u bolts which isnt good when off roading. if its only a street truck then you'll be fine with a block imo
how much lift will an add a leaf give? i want to level the truck so i need to make sure i get atleast 2" of lift in the rear.

Ive been looking through add a leafs on some websites and there are many lengths and lbs and such. im not really sure what im looking at buying. i want to get something ordered in the next day or so.

i dont do much offroading at all. small trails here and there (1-2 times per year) and pulling my buddies stuck pathfinder and chevys out the thick stuff. I stay out of it all. Mostly my truck is for road use with the occasional red light race against the kids and their ricers around town.
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post #5 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 06:46 PM
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The bigger the block the more axle wrap you will have. Stacking blocks is going to give you some bad axle wrap and could fail while your driving causing injury.

You could switch out the 4" block and go with PMF traction blocks. Now a traction block is different then a normal lift block. It had floating traction bars (ladder bars) which connect your rear diff and frame together. This greatly reduces axle wrap. PMF stuff is pricy, depending on how long your U-bolts are you may have to change them.

website: HOME - Precision Metal Fab

Or Install a leaf pack in the rear to make up for the 2". I would personally suggest going with a 6" rear springs. Leaves good ground to lift the truck more in the future.

You should not need an drive shaft modification in the front. I never had my rear ds dropped when I had a 6" lift kit, but you might have too.

I would contact a vendor(s) and figure out what works best for you.

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post #6 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 06:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 20046.0 View Post
The bigger the block the more axle wrap you will have. Stacking blocks is going to give you some bad axle wrap and could fail while your driving causing injury.

You could switch out the 4" block and go with PMF traction blocks. Now a traction block is different then a normal lift block. It had floating traction bars (ladder bars) which connect your rear diff and frame together. This greatly reduces axle wrap. PMF stuff is pricy, depending on how long your U-bolts are you may have to change them.

website: HOME - Precision Metal Fab

Or Install a leaf pack in the rear to make up for the 2". I would personally suggest going with a 6" rear springs. Leaves good ground to lift the truck more in the future.

You should not need an drive shaft modification in the front. I never had my rear ds dropped when I had a 6" lift kit, but you might have too.

I would contact a vendor(s) and figure out what works best for you.

Thanks for the great info. PMF is pricey. I'm looking to spend maybe 400.00 tops on this modification. My cheapest route seems to be the add a leaf. Are there any that is recommended or a link to some that would fit?
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post #7 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 2007F250 View Post
Thanks for the great info. PMF is pricey. I'm looking to spend maybe 400.00 tops on this modification. My cheapest route seems to be the add a leaf. Are there any that is recommended or a link to some that would fit?
TGC - Suspension Lift Kits, Leveling Kits, Wheels, Tires, Shocks and More!

2" rough country add-leaf is well in your price range.

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post #8 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 08:40 PM
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If you don't want to spend the coin on some one up Offroad traction bars. Just get a new set of blocks. 2" of extra height on block isn't going to change anything. I wouldn't mess with springs for 2". You could possibly see more axle wrap with a taller and softer spring. An add a leaf will ride like dog ****.

Just get a new block, u bolts. And maybe an additional shim on your carrier bearing (if you have one).

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Quote of the Day:
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Originally Posted by Mannysouza View Post
You will get some axle wrap with a heavy trailer, I can feel it when towing my gooseneck with some heavy equipment. My Deavers will wrap enough to make the tires rub the front of the rear fender well if I give it too much throttle on aceleration.
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post #9 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 20046.0 View Post
TGC - Suspension Lift Kits, Leveling Kits, Wheels, Tires, Shocks and More!

2" rough country add-leaf is well in your price range.
Will the rough country work on the super duty? I see where the pro comp specifically mentions the super duty.

What is the difference between short(rough country) and long(pro comp)?

Is the ride quality better on one opposed to the other?

I really appreciate all the assistance here.
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post #10 of 17 Old 03-09-2012, 09:24 PM
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You get what you pay for. If it is cheap it will ride real stiff. Do you like the way it rides now?

2001 - 14" OUO 525 - 38x15.5x20 Toyo & 20x12 Weld Cheyenne's. Hybrids, 38R, BTS, Spearco, Terminators..



Quote of the Day:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mannysouza View Post
You will get some axle wrap with a heavy trailer, I can feel it when towing my gooseneck with some heavy equipment. My Deavers will wrap enough to make the tires rub the front of the rear fender well if I give it too much throttle on aceleration.
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