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Carli Suspension - Official Thread

921K views 4K replies 316 participants last post by  Alberta Advantage 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello Everyone,

I posted in the intro section but this is where I'll be living so here it goes again:

I am the Sales Manager for Carli Suspension. If you have any questions for me, feel free to reach out to me direct and I will either answer you or direct you to the appropriate technical source.

I will not be selling on here, but will point you to the appropriate distributor (site sponsor). I'm more here to answer any questions about our products and help with installation/application questions.

Feel free to reach out to me via PM, email: Dan@thecarlisuspension.com, via shop line: 714.532-2798 ext. 107, or post directly in this thread as I'll be checking all forums multiple times daily.

Thanks and Happy Truckin'

DT
 
#2 ·
It's always great to see when a company gets involved in the community.

I have a 11-F350 and have recently put on your 2.5 pintop system with full rear leafs. Everything is great, but since you guys are on here answering questions I though I would ask:

At what pressure are the king shocks pressurized to? I noticed the schrader valves on them and was just wondering if I need to ever pay any attention to them? Should this pressure be checked upon installation/arrival of lift, or is it pretty much good to go, out of sight, out of mind, and never worry about it.
 
#4 ·
They are pressurized to 225 psi and as far as maintenance is concerned, once they're pressurized they're good to go. As you said, out of sight, out of mind.

I would check them every oil change and just ensue there is no visible shock oil on the shafts and if all is well, keep driving and don't worry about them. A bit of oil from assembly is normal on a brand new shock but if it's noticably weeping it could be a sign of a bad seal and they should be checked. Hope ths helps!
 
#6 ·
I have a backcountry 2.0 kit with full rear springs and I love it. Hope to get tired mounted soon.

One question what do you guys do with the lines that run along the radius arms. After the lift they are not long enough to be put back into the holders.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
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#7 ·
As the kit comes with extended brake lines, i assume you're referring to either the vaccuum lines going to the hub or the ABS lines. If the Vaccuum lines aren't long enough, you may have the brackets mixed up (passenger side bracket bolted into drivers side). When bolted into the proper location, it should all bolt up nicely with appropriate slack.

If you're referring to the ABS lines, there should be enough slack after the install but they may need a bit of coercing to get it all perfect. if you shoot some pictures i would be happy to let you know exactly what you need once I can see the exact problem!

Hope this helps...

Dan
 
#8 ·
Welcome Dan I just purchased a Carli Pintop 2.5 kit with full rear leaf and stabilizer from George at Truck Gear and so far very happy.

Nice to see you all on here to help make the product better and provide answers to questions.

:ORG welcome:
 
#11 ·
I'll get a pic of it tomorrow. There's one on each radius arm that runs down the top of it. And then there's another line that seems like it wouldn't not work in the correct slot either. Like I said I'll get a pic tomorrow. Thanks guys.


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#12 ·
Another welcome Dan! I haven't spoken to you, but Pat L. helped me out with a small issue I had and all is good now. I appreciate the great customer service.

My kit is a pintop for an '08 and I also had issues with the vacuum lines and vent line. If you want to keep your line running in the factory retainers, you will need to extend the lines. It is not a big deal. Any Auto parts store will have the correct hose and couplers. The ABS lines do need to be coerced... but were long enough on my truck to stay in the factory retainers.
 
#13 ·
Alright rides dirt I will check them out and see what else I can do with them to make them work.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
#14 ·
Hopefully these will help. You can see the line on top of radius arm and the other right above the dif basically.


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Attachments

#15 ·
The one on your radius arm is ABS Sensor. The connectors should be attatched to your plastic inner fender well behind front tire. Remove from where it is attached to fender well and reattach to fenderwell somewhere lower. The one above the diff is vent line. If it isn't long enough then do as Ridesdirt said.
 
#16 ·
Ok thanks. It just amazed me that I didn't have to extend any of those on my last truck and it has 6.5 inches of lift. But I will give it a try guys thanks again


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#19 ·
You guys ever jumped Sage's super duty? I know one day I'm gonna wanna jump mine. I know I'm not gonna get the same kind of air I get with my dirt bike, but the rush from jumping something that's over 8k lbs is definitely my type of thing. Good to know if it can handle it. If the Carli guys say no, oh well then I'll have to stick to my bike for that.
 
#21 ·
At the end of the day, a little air time can hurt someone. We have a bunch of different systems, some of which are more than equipped to handle some air time. I would recommend you get really comfortable with the suspension and your abilities prior to trying anything, but when it happens; you'll run around the desert looking for the next place to get airborne.
 
#20 ·
These trucks can't handle alot of jumping, But 76-hauler on here caught some air last time we met up..

 
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#22 ·
Ridesdirt or new2diesel could u post a couple pics of how your abs lines are because I don't think I can get that much out of them. The one end is mounted in a steel can mount that has a connector on it. I think the other is the 4x4 vacuum line. Which I think can be extended with some longer hose.


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#24 ·
Welcome to the site Dan, quick question. Ive always wondered why you guys sell mostly the radius arm drop kits instead of 4 link setups? Ive dealt with Sage in the past great guy and a great company, I will be going with 4.5" system for my 6.0 when I get bored of stock height :thumb:
 
#27 ·
One reason I'm sure is to keep the price down. Another is there is real no reason to replace them. They provide great ride and allow you to run a wide tire. Versus a 4 link is alot of extra brackets and the only real advantage over a radius arm setup would be if your really trying to flex your truck out. Which is almost pointless seeing how these truck twist up so easily.

In the Dodge world Radius arms are desired for the same reasons's but a short 4 link has some limiting factor's
 
#28 ·
In the Dodge world Radius arms are desired for the same reasons's but a short 4 link has some limiting factor's
Glad someone finally mentioned this, Dodge's come with 4-link, but they want radius arms... Fords come with radius arms, but some want a 4 link... I guess you always want what you don't have...

I know there are reasons why the factory Dodge setup is limited and I am not saying that the aftermarket Ford setups are like the factory Dodge... I am just sayin'...
 
#29 ·
not trying to hyjack, but someone asked for this...

In this pic you can see the ABS line, vacuum line and diff vent. None of them are lengthened in this pic. You can see the ABS line (closest to the camera) connection was loosened from the inner fender and dropped down, the wire is still in the radius arm clamp. The 4x4 vacuum line is not long enough to stay in the factory radius arm clamp (white ring on radius arm), it needs to be lengthened (hanging just above the white ring, you can see the plastic 90 degree bend). The diff vent is stretched pretty tight, it needs lengthening too. Sorry, really crappy cell picture.

 
#30 ·
Thanks bud. I wasn't sure about pulling that white clamp out of the hole but I guess it would be better having it tight on the radius arm. I have to lengthen my vacuum line as well.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 
#31 ·
Welcome Dan! I will be going with Carli when I get around to it!
 
#32 ·
Dodge's come with 4-link, but they want radius arms... Fords come with radius arms, but some want a 4 link... I guess you always want what you don't have...
That's Funny!

My Dodge has a Carli radius arm conversion and my Ford has a Pure 4-link conversion.:tard:
 
#37 ·
Hi Dan,will the full rear spring packs work on an 06 f350 dually with 13,000 gvwr or will it require LT air bags.I am glad to see you guys took the time to come up with rear springs for the 05 to 07 trucks.I thought I remembered reading that because of the factory springs being shorter at the front than at the back it didn't look very good for improving the rear on these trucks.Are the full spring packs a straight bolt in or does it require moving the front shackel.Thanks.
 
#46 ·
Yes sir. They will work and we're still developing air bags. We do have a kit we're shipping out for the Fords but can't gurantee the fitment or warranty the kit given it may require fabrication to work. Unlike the dodge, Ford has 11 different frames for the 05-12 trucks, thus, it is impossible to predict which frame each individual has or to make a bracket that would fit all vehicles.

Know we are working on it though!

Which way do the rear reservoirs face on the rear drivers and passenger side shocks for the pintop 11 F-350 lift? Currently I have both reservoirs facing the rear, but on the passengers side I noticed that the reservoirs were scratched up from hitting the chassis while in travel. Tried to look for the answer in my instructions, but no luck.
Thanks
See Strapt's post!

Any plans for a 2.5in (height) kit?
Currently in development!

Left side


Passenger side should face forward

Dodge Picture but should be the same

Thanks Chuck!
 
#38 ·
Which way do the rear reservoirs face on the rear drivers and passenger side shocks for the pintop 11 F-350 lift? Currently I have both reservoirs facing the rear, but on the passengers side I noticed that the reservoirs were scratched up from hitting the chassis while in travel. Tried to look for the answer in my instructions, but no luck.
Thanks
 
#40 ·
Left side


Passenger side should face forward

Dodge Picture but should be the same

 
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