Truck wanders is this why? (alignment report inside) - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-31-2012, 03:58 PM
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Truck wanders is this why? (alignment report inside)

Well I had to get an alignment and I couldn't go to my regular place. So I went to another dealership. I got the alignment report but from what I hear I should have more camber and toe? Someone tell me what kinda specs I should be looking for. My truck is a little darty and on a rough surface at highway speeds it tends to wander.

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Old 01-31-2012, 05:02 PM
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Need more positive camber should be close to 0 as you can but a little more caster wouldn't hurt. Your toe is fine but wouldn't hurt to get it evened out. Are you sure all your steering and suspension components are in good shape
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:20 PM
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Is the steering wheel sloppy/have play in it? Remove the driver side charge tube and there is plenty of access to the steering box to snug it up. Loosen hex nut, twist in allen till it bottoms, then back out a little. Hold allen, tighten bolt.

How are your ball joints? Jack stand under axle, 2' 2x4 under tire, lift up, any movement means bad ball joints

With jack stands under axle, grab tires at 9 and 3 and shake/move. Any clunking or slop indicates bad tie rods. Also look for slop on both ends of the drag link while axle is supported. Also check out your unit bearings, I believe a 12 and 6 grip and shaking the tire for slop will find this.

With tires on ground (this takes two people) watch the upper trac bar and mount while steering left to right. Mine was loose, made a thunking noise.

This is just basic front end trouble shooting stuff. Maybe you'll find something.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:29 PM
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Ball joints replaced Jan 5th
New tierod. jan 5th
new draglink and ends. jan 5th
Adjustable trac bar and drop bracket.
drop pitman arm
duel steering stabalizer.

everything is brand new. Trac bar bracket was loose tightned it got rid of clunking but steering is still dodgy. Tires are cupping and worn and is part of the problem but I thought I need more caster.

I will try tightening my steering box, what should I shoot for caster? 3.5ish? what about camber?

I'm taking it to a front end shop in another city once I get a day off.

Last edited by 20046.0; 01-31-2012 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:39 PM
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Rotate tires. Sorry, but once they start cupping, a chrome plated, factory new front end won't help. Then look up what causes cupping in an old school front end manual. If the items that have been replaced are the "usual suspects", rotating them to the rear should end your wandering.

How do you thing I figured out that my drop brackets for my shackles were loose before I went to springs up front? A 1970s front end book! All of that old technology still applies to these trucks, believe it or not.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karls03 View Post
Rotate tires. Sorry, but once they start cupping, a chrome plated, factory new front end won't help. Then look up what causes cupping in an old school front end manual. If the items that have been replaced are the "usual suspects", rotating them to the rear should end your wandering.

How do you thing I figured out that my drop brackets for my shackles were loose before I went to springs up front? A 1970s front end book! All of that old technology still applies to these trucks, believe it or not.
My ball joint were bad causing the cupping of my tires. I'm going to replace tires soon just wanted to make sure my front end was up to proper spec..
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:12 PM
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If anything your camber being in the negative will help out..

Personally I think you need a little more caster. This gives you more stability on road. However it may make turning your truck at a stand still a little harder to do.

I would never adjust a gear box that has been used. It's the same case if you were to tighten your rear axle by tightening the pinion nut. You mess up the gear pattern. It's there for preload and gear pattern when they first build it. I've scene people snap their shafts afte doing this.

If it's a worn gear box replace it.

If the truck has gotten a little more "darty" after your ball joint install there can be some time to break those in. I normally see this when going to a Dynatrac ball joint. They are very tight from the get go and loosen up after 500 miles

What are you using for a steering stabilizer?
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Old 01-31-2012, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Strapt In View Post
If anything your camber being in the negative will help out..

Personally I think you need a little more caster. This gives you more stability on road. However it may make turning your truck at a stand still a little harder to do.

I would never adjust a gear box that has been used. It's the same case if you were to tighten your rear axle by tightening the pinion nut. You mess up the gear pattern. It's there for preload and gear pattern when they first build it. I've scene people snap their shafts afte doing this.

If it's a worn gear box replace it.

If the truck has gotten a little more "darty" after your ball joint install there can be some time to break those in. I normally see this when going to a Dynatrac ball joint. They are very tight from the get go and loosen up after 500 miles

What are you using for a steering stabilizer?
Currently using the Icon Dynamics Dual steering stabalizer, with VS 2.0 shocks I believe.
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Old 02-01-2012, 02:46 AM
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^^ I agree negative camber can help in some vehicles but if he is having darting problems than negative camber is going to just add to it. Negative camber can cause your tires to follow grooves in the road more. If you don't get rid of the camber you need to at least even them out.
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Old 02-01-2012, 03:18 AM
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I was taught to adjust a steering box with it at a partial turn. Most of the wear happens in the center position going straight down the road. If you adjust it at that point it will bind on turns as no wear there and will be too tight. But I was also taught it was a temp fix as the right way was to replace a worn box.I have adjusted a lot of play out of a steering box on older tight budget vehicles and bought some time.I have seen a worn steering box move the pitman arm up or down, changing the toe in just by starting the motor.I used to check toe in with the motor running for this reason and it's easier to set the steering wheel to center.Also be sure to have the truck loaded with what ever you normally have in it when you take it in for an alignment. If you normally drive with a 1000 lb tool box in the back don't take it out.This doesn't apply to straight axles.Check your air pressure before you take it in. Before doing an alignment all components should have been checked, but doesn't always happen. Worn tires will cause a lot of grief, rotate and see if it helps.
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