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Aggie007 Traction Bars

7K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  Aggie007 
#1 ·
I finally got around to building my traction bars. I bought the materials from Ballistic Fabrication. I painted last night so hopefully in the next few days I will have installed pics. Here are some for now though, sorry about the crappy cell-phone pics:






 
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#5 ·
good looking welds... i gotta work on my welds.. im building up too much material and its not laying out flat

why didn't u run 4 poly bushings?
 
#6 ·
I put a heim at the top because a poly joint wouldn't flex as well and bind as the rear axle articulates and the springs compress and decompress. A heim at the upper mount will let the bar rotate and pivot. A poly bushing will too, just not as well.
 
#7 ·
Those turned out great. Have any pics of them installed? When you want me to have my truck in College Station to install mine?:woot:
 
#8 ·
I went out of town without mounting them. My misalignment spacers hadn't come in the mail yet. I will install the bars Monday and take some pics, I assume my spacers are in by now. Any time you want to make the drive we can fab a set of bars for your truck. Long as you are buying beer.
 
#9 ·
looks good i have a similar setup but made all my mounts out of 3/8 plate and used a piece of sch40 1in sleeved by a piece of 1-1/4 sch40 cause the pipe was free so was the plate the only thing i paid for was the 4 heim joint and the 4 adapters 2rh and 2lh so i can put a strap wrench on them and make em really tight for zero wrap at all :thumb:
 
#11 ·
Those turned out great. Now you need to fab up some pinchweld covers LOL
 
#14 ·
I haven't had a chance to really lay into the skinny pedal yet, but soon. I know they will help me hook up and limit my axle wrap.

If you have a stock height truck, I would make the bars around 60 inches long. Mine are 64.5 inches long. Your rear leaf spring compresses in an arc. You need to build the traction bars to move in the same arc, if not they will bind and your truck will ride stiff since the bars will fight with the leaf springs. There is a couple different ways to measure.
 
#15 ·
Aggie, do you have a parts list of what you bought from ballistic fab ?? I absolutely love the way you made them and would like to make a set for myself.

I have a factory height 08 extended cab 4x4 and was wondering what length to make them it sounds like 60" is a good start do you happen to have a link on how to measure the correct distance?

thanks

Nick
 
#17 ·
You might go a tad shorter, around 58-59". That will put you just behind the front fuel tank strap. Mine are just in front.

Ballistic Fab Part's List:
(2) BUS-664-41 which are the 2.63" poly bushings
(10ft) 1.5x2.25" DOM tubing
(1) BRK-1007 which are the lower axle mounts
(2) RE-905 which are the 3/4x5/8" rod-ends for the upper mount
(4) SPA-554 which are the SS spacers for the rod-ends
(2) JAM-709 jam nuts for the rod-ends
(2) TA-213 for 1.5" OD tube inserts for the rod-ends

I built my own upper brackets but you could use the
(1) BRK-1072.
 
#16 ·
SUBBED
JER-1
:icon_ford:
:thumb:
 
#18 ·
Aggie this is off topic but I just went through and looked at your cummins conversion....might be the nicest and cleanest conversion ive ever seen. Very nice. Great job
 
#20 ·
Thank you so much I really appreciate the help!! :thumb: would you mind if i pm u if I need any additional help?

A yes you do have one of the cleanest cummins conversion out there!!

Nick
Thank you for the compliments. PM me any time.
 
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