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Going to Lift soon, need help.

2K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  Skyd Ram 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok guys, so I basically don't really know anything about suspension. I know more about my motor than I really know about suspension at all so I need some help. Situation is this...

My tires on my truck are going bald. I've known I was going to lift this thing since I bought it (last January). I really don't want to shell out money for new tires to then NOT lift and have to wait years for the tires to get run down and I don't want to just lose the the money I put into new tires by selling them so I'm on a tighter budget than I wanted...

I am 99.5 percent sure I want to go 6 inch lift with 37" Nitto Terra Grapplers (don't know if G2 or original cause I don't know the difference.) Probably stick with 18 inch rims (thats a whole other question, I know nothing about rims but know I need to go 10 inch wide for them right?)

So looking at lifts obviously ICON and Carli and stuff are up there with high price tags I probably can't afford. I was looking at BDS but I really can probably only afford the NON 4 link system. Then I was also looking at Zone who I've heard good things from with an attractive price tag...

I'm leaning towards Zone because BDS says the rear will sag without the springs and
A) I might not be able to afford the springs yet and
B) I've heard that BDS springs arent the ones you want anyways....
C) I really don't want a saggy rear...

SO down to the questions. If I went with a kit like zone...

1) How hard is it to switch the blocks to a rear leaf later on? (I think leafs would be better right?)

2) I've heard a bunch about how 4 link system is a lot better, is it? Do I want that? and how hard would it be to convert the system over to 4 link later after I get the money?

EDIT *** 3) What about BDS and getting different rear blocks so it doesn't sag? Would that also be an option? I just really like BDS warranty.

Basically I just need to get the truck in the air to put the tires on in the next 4 months or so around the price tag of hopefully around 4500 bucks? Doable?

I know the post is long but I could really use the help. Thanks guys. Happy football day. :thumb:
 
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#2 ·
I'll tell you what I did on my truck. First off I went for a quality ride and did not go with a kit.

Put on Fabtech radius arms $800
Icon 7" coils. $375
Pure Performance trackbar $375
Carli/Deaver rear leaf springs $1200
Drop down bracket for trackbar $200
Drop down pitman arm $150
Crown brake lines $200
Fabtech 2.5 steering stabilizers $400
Rancho 9000 shocks $300

And I was off and running. My truck has a beautiful ride that just floats down the road. I pulled off a Fabtech complete lift with rear springs and truck drove like a Sherman tank. I didn't add it up but I'm sure it's less then $4500. 18" wheels are wise because more sidewall equal better ride. I went with Toyo 38/15.50/18 tires and they go 50-60K if you take it easy on them. My last set went 55K
Wheels are Pro Comp 18x9

The Nitto tires will not make 40K I have run them before, at least the grapplers.

One thing I would do different today is I would go with a OUO or PMF 3 link radius arms. They are slick, 4 link can get a bit dicey to get right on the F250. There are guys that love them so if you go 4 link get info on doing it right.

Good Luck on your build.
 
#3 ·
Hey thanks for the reply. I guess I wasnt clear. Unfortunately. The 4500 is including for the tires and rims. I'm also a bit worried I really don't know enough about the lifts enough to do the piece together option. Like I said. I just want the truck in the air and later down the road I'll put the springs in the back and convert from radius arms ( if that's easy and possible. )

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#4 ·
Yea tires and wheels were close to $3,000 alone for me. If you are in Sacramento area I will set you up with 95% of a 6" lift.
 
#5 ·
Haha nope. I'm in colorado. Well so that's one thing that I'm not sure about is how to select w wheels other than size and look. Looks like I can get a new set maybe a hair over a grand or so. Then the tires are just a slight bit more. So I figured those are keeping me around 2500 or so at least. So keeping me to only 2k for the lift.
It's POSSIBLE that I might have a slight bit more money for it but not a ton.
So you say the terra grappler isn't that great? I've heard nothing but greatness about it. Surprised to hear about it not lasting, I thought it was rated higher on tread wear than most all terrains. I know the trail grappler goes a bit faster and probably louder which it's why I was looking terra.


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#6 ·
Oh hey sorry. I didn't realize my phone automatically signs in with a different account I had to make for other reasons a month ago. dockjumper and myself are the same person haha. Sorry. I'll try to keep everything else in this name.
 
#7 ·
i'm beholden to PMF...

i'm also beholden to quality over price, but it works out because trevor doesn't overcharge for his stuff...

lifting a solid front axle truck is fairly to the point... big things to address:

* front springs- because they are coil, you must address the track bar which locates the axle under the truck side-to-side and keeps it from kicking left or right when suspension actuates..

* track bar addressed above- adjustable OR drop track bar bracket, or if you're going over 6" both... adjustables mostly come with a superior heim joint... well worth it.

* address the new drive shaft angle- most shim, others put adjustable..

* either drop brackets for radius arms, OR (and I'm waiting on a set right now) adjustable 3 link PMF- locates axle front to rear and provides both the castor and the pivot for suspension actuation. lots of folks use drop brackets... I was one of them... I'm simply at a point now where I'm ready to change and recover my factory castor.

* you can block the rear axle if you like... personally i think it's an accident waiting to happen- these things have far too much torque and with the big (assuming 13.5" width @ 37" tires) stickies, there will be even more applied torque- and those blocks could become spitwads... not good... PMF integrated blocks with traction bars.... I went with 7.25" on the blocks to maintain factory rake. you won't believe the smoothness of traction bars... I went with PMF over OUO because I don't see a lot of off-road, if I did offroad at moderate speeds I'd have likely gone with OUO... that's what the XJ is for- beating on.. I ain't beating on this girl, but it's nice to have the capability if I need it.

* small parts- brackets that relocate brake lines- brake line extensions, drop pitman arms... what I rec you do for this is look at somebody cheap like RC- check out their kits and build a list of all the small parts..

you're looking at $2k for a good lift... you're looking at another $2k for wheels and rubber... if you go 12.5" wide on the tires like I did, you don't need the 10" wheels, but they are nice.... I went with 20"x11" w/ -21mm offset wheels and have a square profile on the 37" STT Pro's by cooper... it gives me the stance I want, which is to say 1.5~2" outside the wheel well but covered almost even with the flares.

against convention and good sense that most here will provide you, I see nothing wrong with the basement lifts so long as you realize you're not done and will be returning to parts and pieces... do the rear right from the start- PMF integrated blocks... drop radius brackets and OE arms will suffice until you can scratch up for the 3links... the MSRP on the 4.5 RC is somewhere around $500... for the small parts that don't really matter it's good to go- and the springs have a lifetime on them if they ever sag or misbehave.

just my .02....

 
#13 ·
* front springs- because they are coil, you must address the track bar which locates the axle under the truck side-to-side and keeps it from kicking left or right when suspension actuates.. Adjustable OR drop track bar bracket, or if you're going over 6" both... adjustables mostly come with a superior heim joint... well worth it.
Agreed. Up to 4.5" of lift, most performance suspension systems use an adjustable track bar because dropping the track bar requires a drop pitman arm and, the way these cycle, you need a much longer bump stop drop as the front end won't cycle to full compression with the drops. Extending the track bar and drag link allows for more compression-travel cycling. When you get to 6", you have no choice but to drop the track bar and Pitman as the angle gets extreme and you run out of drag-link adjustment.

* either drop brackets for radius arms, OR (and I'm waiting on a set right now) adjustable 3 link PMF- locates axle front to rear and provides both the castor and the pivot for suspension actuation. lots of folks use drop brackets... I was one of them... I'm simply at a point now where I'm ready to change and recover my factory castor.
Drop brackets aren't problematic in either of these areas depending on lift height. If you drop the radius arm pivot to match the lift on the spring, you're not only maintaining your factory caster, you're also ensuring the axle maintains the most linear travel path through the articulation stroke. Raising the pivot with an adjustable radius arm pulls the axle back on droop and pushes it forward on compression.

* you can block the rear axle if you like... personally i think it's an accident waiting to happen- these things have far too much torque and with the big (assuming 13.5" width @ 37" tires) stickies, there will be even more applied torque- and those blocks could become spitwads... not good... PMF integrated blocks with traction bars.... I went with 7.25" on the blocks to maintain factory rake. you won't believe the smoothness of traction bars... I went with PMF over OUO because I don't see a lot of off-road, if I did offroad at moderate speeds I'd have likely gone with OUO... that's what the XJ is for- beating on.. I ain't beating on this girl, but it's nice to have the capability if I need it.
Just to add my $0.02 to your comments, block eliminating leaf springs are even better in the ride quality department. Removing the factory block and putting springs directly on the axle removes the fulcrum points and thus, leverage the power has over the spring. We have great luck with these on modified trucks. For high-HP trucks, I usually tell people to look into a floating ladder-bar setup (both PMF and OUO have these, i believe) that run a shackle on the ladder bars to ensure the bars can match the fore-aft and axle roll spring shift without binding.
 
#8 ·
Don't skimp on the lift if you can help it. I went with Fabtech because it's a nice happy medium and great quality. Doing a 6" with wheels and tires for 4500 might be a stretch unless you shop around and find some good deals. I got my wheels months before the rest but I saved almost a grand on them! I'm still almost 4000 into wheels and tires but also running 22x14s with 40"s. I love the toyos as well and have always gotten the most life out of them over nitto. You can find good deals on those as well I got 4 22x15.5x22 for 1900 and most places were asking around 3000 for them. Take your time and search a lot before you pull the trigger is my advice. PMF and OUO make an outstanding product but it will break the bank quick. For me at least I know the Fabtech will be more than enough for how I drive my truck but it might not work for someone else that wants to jump dunes with their 250... Everything I got from fabtech for around 8000 would have been almost 20k from OUO. Almost did it but it was overkill and unnecessary for me. Look at tons of pics and flood the forum with lift questions that's what I did >:) but in the end I have no regrets on the purchases I made with all the advice I received on this forum.
 
#9 ·
No I had trail grapplers and they went fast on my old truck and I drive like a old lady. I don't recommend them, I also was surprised to see the Toyo M/T was 30 lbs heavier. Toyo makes a good tire and they last. You are going to want a wheel with around 4-3/4" backspace if you want to keep your tires under the truck.
Now there are guys swinging those 14" wide wheels that hang out a mile. Me I think they look like $hit but to each his own.
My wheels are Polished Aluminum 18X9 and my 38/15.50/18 are flat across the tread and look good.
Me I like as wide as I can get, I really wanted 36" tires but 12-1/2" wide is too narrow for me.
 
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#10 ·
Ok well I'll double check on Toyos and see if there is anything I like. I had just heard such rave reviews on the Terras that I really thought they would be the best for long life, low noise, and still having something in the all terrain category. So if anybody has any more input on the Terras that would be awesome.

I agree with your opinion of the stance. I would like to tires to sit right about where the fender flares will be. Most of the lifts say they need 5 inch of backspace. What I find weird though is some 6 inch lifts say they only clear 35s.... why would some clear 37s and others only 35?

So I could run a 9 inch wheel if I wanted?

So basically as to my use of the truck... it's mainly a road truck, however I'm a hunter. Not to mention the fact that I know after performing these mods on my truck, whenever a situation gets sticky, everybody is going to say "hey lets take your truck". So while I certainly choke at the thought of jumping my truck off a sand dune, I need it to be capable in dirty situations.

If I was going to piece something together I figured I would go with Icon springs, I've just heard great things. Thats what you said you got right hatlen?

I also definitely don't WANT blocks in the rear, but I figure I'm just not going to be able to afford the springs yet. Blocks might stay for about a year or so until the additional funds come in for the springs. And I was possibly thinking Icon on those too???

Something that would be EXTREMELY helpful if I was going to go down this route would be if somebody might be so kind as to make a really quick list of A) Items not to skimp on (Items that will really be important for durability/ride quality) and B) Items that I can try to save a buck on by going RC or something like that....

Oh yeah... Sorry to have to ask... What does PMF and OUO stand for? Haha.

Thanks guys input so far is great. And like was suggested, I'm not making these purchases right now, I've got a couple months to shop, however, the bad side is I have a couple months to over think everything also. If I just didn't have to spend 2k on a clogged oil cooler/two injectors that I think are going bad then I'd have that much more for this lift. Or if I could get any sleep at night if I were to choose to do the lift first and repair later, but that would just be neglectful.
 
#12 ·
Ok well I'll double check on Toyos and see if there is anything I like. I had just heard such rave reviews on the Terras that I really thought they would be the best for long life, low noise, and still having something in the all terrain category. So if anybody has any more input on the Terras that would be awesome.
They're awful... Soft sidewall requiring over-inflation, terrible off-road, terrible in wet and I never drove in cold but it sounds like they're pretty bad there too.

Only good thing, tread life. I hated them but ran them until i could justify replacing them and that was around 40K.

I agree with your opinion of the stance. I would like to tires to sit right about where the fender flares will be. Most of the lifts say they need 5 inch of backspace. What I find weird though is some 6 inch lifts say they only clear 35s.... why would some clear 37s and others only 35?

So I could run a 9 inch wheel if I wanted?
It depends what you're after. We do 2.5" and 4.5" lifts. We recommend 35" on 2.5" lift and 37" on 4.5" of lift. We have customers run 37" tires on 2.5" of lift without an issue. Fitting tires is all about wheel width and backspacing. 9" wide, 5" Backspace and you can fit a 37" tire on a 4.5". A lift doesn't determine tire fitment as much as the wheel spec until you get over 6".

So basically as to my use of the truck... it's mainly a road truck, however I'm a hunter. Not to mention the fact that I know after performing these mods on my truck, whenever a situation gets sticky, everybody is going to say "hey lets take your truck". So while I certainly choke at the thought of jumping my truck off a sand dune, I need it to be capable in dirty situations.
Performance is limited by your wallet in these rigs. We're one company that pushes the envelope on the capability of the platform. Great street ride, Great Mild-Off-Road with 4.5" lift and Full Progressive Leaf Springs in the Rear (as you mentioned you didn't like blocks) can be had for a few thousand dollars. Once you throw in the "jumping the sand dunes" part, it starts getting expensive.

Remember, any truck can jump a sand dune, not many can land and drive away.. Check out the videos in my signature, haha.

If I was going to piece something together I figured I would go with Icon springs, I've just heard great things. Thats what you said you got right hatlen?

I also definitely don't WANT blocks in the rear, but I figure I'm just not going to be able to afford the springs yet. Blocks might stay for about a year or so until the additional funds come in for the springs. And I was possibly thinking Icon on those too???

Something that would be EXTREMELY helpful if I was going to go down this route would be if somebody might be so kind as to make a really quick list of A) Items not to skimp on (Items that will really be important for durability/ride quality) and B) Items that I can try to save a buck on by going RC or something like that....
It would be worth it to look up our product if you're looking to the high end. If you've poked around the suspension section, there's more info on our lifts than nearly any other brand.

As for a list, the things you'll need to address at 4.5" and 6" are different and i can help you compile a list. If you're planning to spend time off-road, cheaping out on anything could lead yourself down the path of expensive repairs & trail fixes. You'll find that, once you break everything down to included components & start upgrading (wanting coils up front, leaf springs rear, etc), premium brands aren't much more than the cheaper lifts and you're getting WAY more for your money and WAY better product all while supporting American Manufacturers.

Oh yeah... Sorry to have to ask... What does PMF and OUO stand for? Haha.
Precision Metal Fabrication & One-Up-Offroad.

Thanks guys input so far is great. And like was suggested, I'm not making these purchases right now, I've got a couple months to shop, however, the bad side is I have a couple months to over think everything also. If I just didn't have to spend 2k on a clogged oil cooler/two injectors that I think are going bad then I'd have that much more for this lift. Or if I could get any sleep at night if I were to choose to do the lift first and repair later, but that would just be neglectful.
We've all been there. I spend $7,800 rebuilding my 6.0L for the second time right before I traded it in on my 2016. The most expensive lesson to learn it the one you learn twice.

When it comes to a lift on a 7,500lb. truck that needs to haul, ride well on-road and ride well off-road, don't cheap out; you get what you pay for.
 
#11 ·
i've ran terragrapplers and i'm not a fan... they are heavy and soft.. they wear and are loud, and they straight up suck on anything cold. not too high on them off hardpack, either with the one exception of beach sand... they're okay there.

my boss has a set of g2's, and literally the first day he had them he blew one out on a self tapping bolt in the road.

i run cooper STT pro's- which are heavy, loud, and they are tough as nails- they would have laughed at that self tapper my boss snagged... the sidewalls are silly strong... they wear- decent.

there is a set left using discount tire direct of some pro-comp 37x12.5x20's in their AT tire that has really good reviews- they are $350ea right now, and if you want them you better beat me to them.... I'm considering snatching them up and replacing the STT Pro's @ about 50% and while i can still get a good amount for them. especially with winter coming up... the stt pro friggin' ROCKS in anything cold.
 
#16 ·
Hey so just wondering, was going through looking at lifts again and saw PMF's 7inch system which uses the 3 link replacement arms up front. It looks like I can get that lift for around 3400 or so, however that is with blocks. Icon's 7 I can get the stage 2 with the rear springs for about the same. SO...

Assuming my budget were to allow for one of those would I be better to...

A) Go with Icon and convert to the 3 link arms later or
B) Go with PMF and convert to the rear spring later?

(All assuming I probably can't afford the 4400 dollar tag of getting both.)

I like how if I DID go with blocks (though I hate that idea) that at least the PMF kit comes with the traction bars, makes me feel at least a little safer.

Everybody keeps saying how PMF is really good to talk to and helps with setting people up so I might give them a call this week and see what they say.
 
#17 ·
the height of the tire isn't that important to the width of the rim- but the width of the tire is huge... the safe play is the game of thirds- a nine inch wheel's third is 3", and that makes a 12" tire the widest you'd want to go... I'd run (and have) a 12.5 on a 9" with zero issues.. I'd NOT run a 13.5" on a 9" , though...

but.... let's talk about the inconsistencies in tire manufacturing and rating...

the section width of the g2 in the 37" is 'supposedly' 12.5... they're actually close- which is NOT the norm... but the footprint (tread width that meets the road at proper inflation) is only a bit over 10"... which means that tire/rim width is not a problem at all.

the STT Pro's I run are 37"x12.5" with a section width of almost 12.25 and a tread area of a touch over 11. the rim width i run is 11.5"... the tire assumes a square profile and presses every bit of the tread to the terra...

the 12.5" wide tires i ran on a 9" rim i also ran on a 8.5" rim... they took a rounded profile and wobbled... they were fine for road use at full pressure, but off road there was no opportunity to deflate. they would have rolled right off the rim.
 
#18 ·
First off on the wheels, I have 38/15.50/18 Toyo M/T tires on my truck with 18X9 aluminum wheels and my tires are flat across the tread.
I have run two sets already and on my third set now. The Toyo M/T will go 50-60K with no problem if your not spinning tires.

As for the lift option:

PMF makes quality stuff for sure and his 3 link setup is awesome. I think he uses Icon coils in his lift kits.

Icon springs are awesome and second to none except for Carli/Deaver which may be a draw actually. The Icon front coils is as good as you will ever find, especially in a 7" lift. I have not been in a truck that had Icon rear leafs in it. But I would have to think they are top notch riding leaf springs. But that is coming from history and reputation because I have no first hand knowledge.
I do have the Carli rear leaf springs and they ride awesome. My truck became a completely different vehicle after installing them. But they have a bad side to them..... your rear axle centerline will move forward a full inch. So if you are running a big tire you will see it for sure, your tire will be 1" from the front of the fender and 3" away from the rear.
It is due to how Carli set it up for compression, so that your tire won't rub back of fender at full compression which is like at 13" or so?
The spring has a beautiful ride and I mean beautiful but rear tire will be off a bunch.
I made a custom 1-1/2" angled block with 1" offset pins to get springpin where it belongs.

Now as far as the Icon rear leafs if they have a set in 7" I would see that as a plus because you will block free.
I will tell you right now once you lift your truck 7" using front radius arm drop brackets you're going to want to puke when you see how bad it looks. The radius arms will be horizontal and hanging down below the frame a lot. They are a high center risk for sure and look like chit.


So if I were you knowing what I know after installing two lifts on 2006 F250 trucks I'd go with the Icon kit. Then as soon as I had the money I would get the PMF 3 Link arms for sure.
I wish I bought his 3Link instead of the Fabtech radius arms..... and I really do mean that. You have so much adjustment and control of the front axle and they look good.

Only thing I don't know first hand is how the Icon rear leaf springs ride. You might do research on them. Also going with rear springs for 2008 and newer will give you a even better ride because they are longer. You would need to relocate your front spring hangers forward for the springs to work. No cost to do that except for the 1/2" grade 8 bolts.


I hope this gives you some idea of what is what.
 
#19 ·
Here's my Two Cents on a bunch of your questions and concerns:

First off 9" wide wheels are about perfect for 12.5-13.5" wheels so as long as you don't run your tire pressure too high they will wear just fine. Too much pressure and the wider tires will wear down the middle regardless of rim width. Plus they can handle a bit funny and obviously ride much rougher.

Based on your budget ($3-$4K), your desire to run 37's, have it ride better than stock, and your admittance that you know nothing about suspension, I would stick with a complete engineered system as opposed to mixing and matching components and hoping for the best.

You can easily clear 37's on your '08 with a 4.5" system (and even a 2.5" kit is you pay close attention to your wheel specs) so going higher would only be for cosmetics and make it harder (and more complicated) to keep a good ride. With your budget you really couldn't go wrong with a Carli 4.5" Backcountry kit (with or without the full leaf option). I will go out there and say that I would put that system up against anything in the $3500 price range as far as being the best riding, handling, and performing system out there. It is also the most complete and well thought out and "tuned" system in that price range as well.

Don't get too hung up on which aftermarket arm is best at your price range as there really isn't anything wrong with the stock arms and many run them very hard without issue (myself included). Your money is better spent on the best possible springs and shocks that are tuned specifically for those springs. That in the long run will make the overall biggest difference in the ride quality and performance. Items like different arms/ etc. can always be added later if you feel the need/have the money.
 
#20 ·
OK, so it really does sound like everybody is in consensus that 9 inch rim is ok on the 37's... so I dunno maybe I'll go that route. Anything wrong with running 10 inch anyways?

Skyd -
Yeah I hear you on Carli, however I really was looking at the 6 inchers (or I guess 7 from Icon or PMF) because I'm more a fan of a balance between the lift and the tires. I feel like 37s on a 4.5 looks relatively stuffed. I dunno, I GUESS maybe pictures could change my mind... Wouldn't you get rub if you fully locked your suspension one way or the other? (not that I plan on it but... you know... functionality) Also, one of the reasons I'm drawn to putting the 3 link in (and a reason zones cheaper lift is appealing) is because I'm like some others, I hate the look of those radius arms and if their at eye level (exaggeration) then I'll like them less.

mhateln-- How are those M/T's on the highway? I really am not a fan of road noise and while the functionality is better in the muck, I'll hear the noise way more often than I'll get the functionality. I feel like I should stick to the A/T lines in that case...

Thats weird about the springs. I would have figured that center of the wheel well would be best for not touching

Yeah I had heard good things about the Icon 7 inch springs so I'm pretty much set that if I can go higher end no matter what I'll get those. I was thinking Fox 2.0 shocks if I don't go with Icon's lift. I've heard good things about those, I don't have the money to go with resi though.
I DO wish I could get some feed back or experience about Icon's rear springs. If they arent awesome I would maybe just grab their cheaper stage 1 and then get better springs somewhere else. ALSO, they are listed as 5 inch but they come in the 7 inch kit? So are they used in conjunction with the factory block? Or is it because the back end gets lifted less than the front for level? I want to make sure that the stance is level or MAYBE slight rake... definitely no squatting.

I really have to thank you guys, I've already learned a lot about suspension just talking to you about it. Do I feel like I am any closer to making a decision? Not at all!!! But thats not your fault... I just have to gauge what I can afford and where the priorities lie. And actually now I'm even more confused about what route to go with tires. Haha.

Also, how stupid of an idea would you think of me to try to get this lifted with a buddy of mine? He's researched lifts a lot but never done one. My background is in being a helicopter mechanic for the Coast Guard. So I know my way around tools. I completed my own EGR delete this last winter by myself (only took about 15 hours :hehe:) If I did it I would make sure that the truck can be down for several days so I can take my time. Part of my motivation is BECAUSE I don't know suspension, but through this I will learn (just like the EGR delete). And secondly because since I'm pouring so much into the lift I really don't want to pay for it. :shrug: Oops... long post.
 
#25 ·
I guess that it all in the eye of the beholder. I personally think that 37's and 4.5" lifts look just about perfect on the 08-10 trucks with quite a bit of room in the wheel well. Here's my old 08 with 4" of lift and 37" Hankook MT's. I ran 17x9's with 5" of backspace and only needed to trim a little bit of the inner plastic liner:



With that above setup I never got any rubbing on road or off:



Like others have said, the Toyo M/T's are actually pretty quiet but you could always do the R/T's if you wanted an aggressive looking tire that is almost as quiet as an A/T.

In the rear of these trucks the front of the spring is solidly located and the rear of the spring mounted to a shackle that swings backwards as the suspension compresses. So whenever the suspension compresses on a bump the axle not only moves up into the wheel well, it also moves back in the wheel well. So Carli moves the center pin forward on their spring design so that the tire ends up centered in the wheel well on big bumps. When running 37's on these trucks with the stock style leafs the tire can contact the back of the wheel well on big bumps especially when towing.
 
#21 ·
The Toyo M/T tires are honestly pretty quiet on the highway. I had Trail Grapplers and they howled going down the road bad.

If you have the proper tools including good floor jacks and jack stands it can be done at home. I have never paid to get my lifts installed.
But you really need two good floor jacks, the front of these trucks are damn heavy.
I bought two 6x6 posts and cut them to 18" and stacked them and capped off with 3/4" plywood. Then I placed my floor jacks on top of them to give me enough height to get truck up enough.

You are right about seeing your radius arms at 7" of lift. It looks Horrible..........

Shorter lifts it's not as visible and is hard to see.
 
#22 ·
Did you mean 2 good jack stands? Or floor jacks? I wouldn't see a need for 2 jacks... I have 2 jackstands that are rated for the weight, and I would go buy the jack because I should have a good one anyways (plus anything is cheaper than paying to have it installed). Also might buy a compressor... been wanting a reason.
 
#23 ·
Lol no I meant two Floor Jacks.

I have a 3-1/2 ton and a 3 ton floor jack and they don't like the weight of my truck. Plus it's much safer to lift on each side of the frame with separate jacks.
My 3-1/2 ton is a very nice jack but it strains bad to lift entire front of my truck. Best way to do it is: jack up truck with tires up around 4" inches off the ground and then get jack stands under frame.

Pull off front tires and get to it.

You will need a socket or wrench for the big nut off the steering box pitman arm.
Also make sure you have a socket for big bolt holding track bar up on frame.

Also will need a pickle fork to remove trackbar at ball joint on axle. $25.00 tool or so. lol at least I think, been long time since I bought mine.


Borrow another floor jack if you can or borrow two. But really you can always use a floor jack with these trucks.

I'd wait on compressor for now and put your money into a lift you will be happy that you bought.
 
#24 ·
Also doing it yourself you are going to need to get jacks under the front axle to raise and lower it so you can replace the springs, shocks and trackbar etc etc.


Here's a late answer for the Carli rear leafspring pack. Their springs are designed for off-road racing and they will do everything you will ask of them. They are designed for I think 13" of compression where our factory springs are around 5"-6" compression. So if you have your truck setup for off-road there is another 6" of travel with the Carli leafs. The leafs are longer in front of axle the behind it and the axle moves back under compression. Tires will hit the rear of the fender if they didn't move the springpin forward the additional 1".
But 99% of us are not going all race and have the rubber stoppers set up around 5" of maximum compression... like myself.
The springs are awesome and I mean AWESOME !!!! I highly recommend them because they will really tame the ride of the truck. That said I would have to guess the Icon leafs are nice as well. I am sure the rear axle is centered because they are surely made for a street application.

Tires are going to be what gives the truck a buff look to it and width is everything in my book. Wheels have gone from 10" to 9" as a standard mainly since your president passed the fuel wasting letigation BS tax penalty on all tires over 12" wide. 10 years ago you could get 36/16.50/15 tires like popcorn and lots of companies made them. I myself wished I could get a set of 36/15/18 but nobody makes them. My old truck had 15X10 wheels with 36/15.50/15 Fun Country Radials and I loved them. I had 5-6 sets over the 24 years I owned my Chevy 4X4.
My 38/15.50/18 are square across at 35 psi and wear perfectly across the tread. I am extremely happy with my Toyo M/T tires and will keep running them unless something better comes along.

My truck with the suspension and tires rides as good as my wife's Chevy Tahoe. It's really amazing because it rode like a Sherman tank with the full Fabtech lift it had on it.

Shocks are going to play a role for sure on your truck. I have been using Rancho 9000 shocks and I set them down very low on compression settings. I honestly think they do very well especially for what they cost. I plan on replacing them with icon Resi shocks but that's down the road for sure. No matter what I will only go with a adjustable shock setup so I can fine tune the ride.

Ok there is a Hunka Chunka of Posting there......... hope something in it helps you get a idea of what's what.
 
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