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Body lift for 2007 F250 Diesel

5K views 18 replies 11 participants last post by  Mannysouza 
#1 ·
I'm looking strictly for a body mount lift kit, maybe 2-3 inches. My truck is my commuter vehicle, I put 140 miles round trip on my drive to work. So I do Not want to change the suspension in any way. I'm thinking a 2" body mount lift kit would be best, what do you guys think and where can I get a good quality body mount kit?
 
#3 ·
Body lifts are dangerous in my opinion. A small leveling kit can ride just as good. If not better than stock.
 
#6 ·
The problem with body lifts and the diesel trucks is the plumbing for everything. Your intercooler tubes, radiator lines, radiator fan, etc etc end up being a problem to deal with. When you raise the body 2" the engine doesn't get raised....

I just helped install one on a truck a few weekends ago. But it was only a 1/2"...

They are not really dangerous or anything like that. They just can look a little funny if not done right.
 
#9 ·
How the hell do you do that....LOL That has to be a home made kit or it is something ridiculous like an 8" home made body lift...LOL Or the guy just had his 6.0 just worked on and they forgot to tighten down the cab bolts. LOL.

Seriously though I have seen more broken wheels on lifted trucks then cabs coming off. There are (6) pretty dang large bolts that hold these cabs down.
 
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#11 ·
I've had a body lift on half ton trucks. But NEVER would I consider one on a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel. No way.
 
#12 ·
Well I'm curious why you guys think it's such a big deal on 3/4 or 1 ton trucks, but not 1/2 ton trucks.

Are the cabs/beds that much heavier in weight than the 1/2 ton trucks? Because that's the main factor - the weight of the cab/bed vs the gravitational forces (g) from accelerating or decelerating. Obviously the integrity of the bolts/washers/nuts is a factor, and you would have a slightly higher leverage factor with the 2" or 3" space increase between the cab/bed and the frame. With quality grade 8 or higher bolts/nuts, and washers large enough to have sufficient contact area, I can't picture it being an issue. The increased leverage factor of 2-3" shouldn't be a big deal.

Isn't Ford using the same cab on the 2017 F250's and F150's?

If the cabs/beds on our 3/4 ton trucks weighed 1000 lbs more than the 1/2 ton trucks, I would accept that there would be a definite difference there, but if they are roughly the same weight, I just don't see why they could be any more or less dangerous than other trucks which have been using body lifts for decades. Hell I had a body lift on my 1979 Toyota 4x4, and several other trucks, including my 2004 Chevy Avalanche. I've never heard of a problem with a quality manufactured body lift kit that uses heavy duty components.

Now a home-made kit with cheapo components - different story. I wouldn't trust that either.
 
#13 ·
Well I'm curious why you guys think it's such a big deal on 3/4 or 1 ton trucks, but not 1/2 ton trucks
from what I read only one person commented on the 1/2 ton? so there is no you guys IMO

personally I think they are crap for any application and a lot of work to show more frame

you have a lot of items like hoses and wiring that needs extended or is going to be stressed usually it's not addressed by the Body lift maker

then your 5th wheel hitches and other items may not fit properly

bumpers need addressed or look like chit a leveling kit is sooooo much better and easier IMO
 
#14 · (Edited)
OK Zmann I should have worded my question a little differently. Others said that they are dangerous, and that they have seen the cab come off - also signifying dangerous. I should have opened up the question to include why people think they are dangerous and would never put them on a truck. And why are some people such as yourself so against them?

On some trucks the additional view of the frame is not that bad - on my Avalanche, the AMP Research steps totally hid the frame.

I didn't ask to compare and contrast the benefits/drawbacks to a suspension lift, or about the difficulties with a body lift such as bumpers, lines, cables, hoses, etc. The high quality kits I have used in the past addressed all of those issues - they had custom brackets to relocate everything that needed to have stress relieved or be repositioned. Not sure how many body lifts you have installed, but I've installed a total of 5 on trucks - some owned by me, and others owned by friends. In every case, the kit I used was complete with every bracket, bolt, and part needed.

I've never used a 5th wheel hitch before, so I can't really comment on that point.

The OP specifically stated he wanted a body lift, and did not want a suspension lift in any way. I just don't see what's so bad about them. Your opinion that a suspension lift is better is fine - I like suspension lifts too. Body lifts do have some advantages, like not raising the center of gravity as much as a suspension lift.

Curious why you think they are crap for ANY application.

On my Avalanche - I wanted to run 40" tires. I used a 12" Bulletproof kit for the suspension, but that alone didn't give me the clearance I wanted to run the 40's, so adding a 3" body lift was the perfect solution. To go another 3" on the suspension would have cost me thousands in custom fabrication. The body lift was about $300.

The same thing can hold true for others. The difference between a 6" and a 9" suspension can be significant in terms of cost. That extra 3" requires larger more expensive components, in addition to other issues like custom driveshafts, clocking/lowering the transfer case, custom steering components, custom shocks, etc, etc, etc. However going with a 6" suspension combined with a 3" body lift would get you to the same place for considerably less money.

Again, I just think it's a viable option in some cases, and don't see why people think it's so bad.
 
#15 ·
The main reason they are not sold is that it is alot of work to get a 3" body lift to work on these trucks. You have to be able to fab and weld. Nobody has a kit that you can buy for a diesel truck. The gasser trucks are much easier to deal with.
 
#16 ·
Not dangerous at all that's silly. The bolts zMANN? Body lift or not you could use cheap or good bolts, nothing to do with length. Yes the length of a bolt does reduce its strength but 6x grade 8 plus will hold together well past the rest of truck. Don't base your opinion on annomolies, your better than that. Body lifts, wheel spacers, lift blocks, all are safe and have a higher load failure point then all the parts they are connected to. Anything will fail if put together wrong.

Statistics are about sample size. Your sample size is one, this your logic is flawed. How many body lifts run without fail? If you took a sample size of one, on anything in life your logic will be off. If you see one side of a quarter, and is heads, with a sample size of one you would conclude with all certainty that all quarters have Gmans face on all sides. Your better then that, know your an independent thinker based on your resistance to herd logic (Archoil sales pitch) lol. No offense meant but body lifts are safe. Now Laysons right, more pain then they worth. You can add 2" to a solid axle truck in under an hour with blocks and coil spacers, so why body lift? That would be a whole other topic.
 
#17 ·
I think they just aren't as viable solution to raise a truck as opposed to a suspension lift for all the reasons mentioned in previous posts about how much modification needs to be done to do it correctly. Years ago they were the "cheap" alternative to a proper lift and as such many aspects of the engineering where shortcut or just not addressed. Case in point: the toyota lift I saw on a friend's truck didn't have anything to support the bed (which had bracing underneath that sat on the top of the frame rails) so anything heavy in the bed would have caused the center of the bed to get a permanent bow....
 
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