second guessing traction bars

[toddyman88]

I know for a fact I need some type of restraint on the rear axle since I installed the 6" skyjacker. I sat on the ground and let the wife pull the truck up and back and saw just how much the rear end tips up when you give it some gas.....WOW! Now I undrstand the vibration.

So heres the delema.......have read over and over and over the posts on making your own bars....I even had my buddy cut the gussetts out for under the axle with his plasma cutter and have bought the ends. Not sure what size pipe to use.....1.5 or 1.25 sch 40? 80 is way overpriced. Second guessing my decision would I be better off buying tuff country bars or pro-comp bars instead?

Beating myself up over this........HELP!

Thanks guys

[CT Performance, Inc.]

DOM only steel to use. Make sure you have a front shackle. Rize only bars I like.

Cary

[Adamvabeach]

Ive been wondering this myself????? Has any body seen the New Diesel World Magazine. It has an article about this co Dynamite Diesel making traction bars. Thick azz metal tubing and looks good. Im gonna look into it myself. Driveline is not somewhere to skimp

[DCSpecial]

I agree on using DOM....0.25" wall or 0.125" depending on how they are designed and how much force that the bar sees.


I disagree on Rize bars being the best....they can and do bind under certain circumstances.

[toddyman88]

DOM meaning domestic steel made in the usa? I looked at some 2" sch 80 today that the local metal supplier can get me for $80 per 20' stick. Its 2.375 od 1.939 id with a 0.218 wall thickness. Solid seemless pipe. Cant imagine that not being strong enough. Mine will be made like the other homemades on here with the cat 2 tractor supply joints on each end. Double 1/2" plate welded to the axle and frame with all 3/4 grade 8 hardware. I was checking plumbing supply houses for sch 80 and it was almost $300.00.
When I install these should I crank some tention back against the rear axle to push the pinion down to be on the same angle as the driveshaft comming ino it? Its a tad higher than the shaft angle now.

[Newman]

DOM means: Drawn Over Mandrel IE, its seamless!

[Adamvabeach]

Originally Posted by toddyman88

DOM meaning domestic steel made in the usa? I looked at some 2" sch 80 today that the local metal supplier can get me for $80 per 20' stick. Its 2.375 od 1.939 id with a 0.218 wall thickness. Solid seemless pipe. Cant imagine that not being strong enough. Mine will be made like the other homemades on here with the cat 2 tractor supply joints on each end. Double 1/2" plate welded to the axle and frame with all 3/4 grade 8 hardware. I was checking plumbing supply houses for sch 80 and it was almost $300.00.
When I install these should I crank some tention back against the rear axle to push the pinion down to be on the same angle as the driveshaft comming ino it? Its a tad higher than the shaft angle now.

Can you post pics of what your doing and having built? I have a local machine shop that is very good and I gonna see if they can build me some.

[Newman]

Just out of curiosity... Why reinvent the wheel. Good Heims are like $100 each. So your in it $400 before any other material and you still have to put time in designing them then building them. IMHO you'd be better off just buyin some. I know when I start making some real power I'll be getting some OUO Bars.

[toddyman88]

Thats what im not using heims. I dont want to spend that much on a stock output truck. If I did, I would buy some all made and save myself the trouble. Just need to stiffen the axle is all.

Comming from the world or pipefitting, DOM always means Domestic to us and IMP is import refering to the counrty of origin that the steel came from in the pipe. My sch 80 im looking at is seemless. Should be ok for stock HP, defenatley needed with the lift.

Im at 22$ for grade 8 bolts ect, $22 for plate and channel, $80 for the pipe, $42 for the cat2 joints plus some misc welding rod and grinding wheels and paint so roughly $175 w/o any of my cheap labor...lol Not bad for the satisfaction.

Need to figure out how long these really need to be.

[Chadahootchie]

buy some tractor links at your local farm store and cut them in have half, weld a long pipe in the middle. links are like $30 plus the pipe