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  #1  
Old 04-30-2008, 04:52 PM
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Traction Bars

I plan to make my own here soon for my truck and I just wanted to know what the idea behind the length of the bar was and how long it should be.

This is going to be on a stock suspensioned truck and I know that tire size does not matter at this point, but they're only 285's. It'll be on a crewcab short bed truck w/ a w/b of 156" but I don't think that matters.

I basically want someone to tell me how long the bar should be, and why...



(The Green part). Like my MS Paint drawing at work?

Patrick? I know we've spoke about this... but never delved into the length needed.
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:06 PM
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I have mine built so that at no suspension level (unloaded or fully loaded on the bumpers) they do not torque the pinion angle. The geometry took more time to figure out than the actual fabrication. The angle exactly matches that of the drive shaft at any load. I made my loops mount to them. I can remove them in five minutes. I have run them on the street for 30,000 miles with no problems. They make it feel totally different when you get on it, no rear end spring deflection at all.
I had them off for a while and took off too quick with my trailer, BAD DEAL. Since then they have stayed on.

If you are interested I could send you pictures of the setup. They are also very light, not over 30 extra pounds. Not over $150.00 in them.
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:53 PM
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I take it that your are experiencing some wheel hop with that go-pedal depressed Marty?:
I see that you have that monster back on the road.
Sorry dude,,,,,,I've missed 2 weeks off the org and still catching up!
Glad that money tree is still producing
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moore20017.3 View Post
The angle exactly matches that of the drive shaft at any load.
This is what I wanted to hear... I figured it had to do with the axle dropp and up travel...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Freak View Post
I take it that your are experiencing some wheel hop with that go-pedal depressed Marty?:
Glad that money tree is still producing

Not so much, but I'm putting limiting straps on the front and traction bars on the rear to help me on the track... both the sled track and the race track. And if the money tree was still producing I'd be buying new ones, not making them
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:59 PM
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From my experince you will want the bar to mount to the axle centered on the tube. Right now your drawing shows it on the bottom of the axle tube.

As for length the ones I see on trucks by me are about 48 inches long. They are a double bar design meaning they have two bars mounting to the axle but only one mounting point at the frame. Making them look like ladders. Hence the reason why they are called ladder bars.

As for your drawing I would go with that set up just move the mounting point on the axle to the front center of the axle tube. Basically so your mounting point is at 9pm.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:26 PM
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bigcountrysg- For traction bars,..it is normally attached at the 6:30 position,....if he mounts it where you are suggesting,...it will zero effect in prevent axle wrap.

the length you will need is 7'1" for proper arch when the springs compress.


Maintain...if you want some REALLY good quality bars....with HEIM joints,..and all the proper grade 8 hardware....at a ridiculously good price...PM me.
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2008, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigcountrysg View Post
From my experince you will want the bar to mount to the axle centered on the tube.
I don't see how that would help with axle wrap? It would keep the axle from coming forward, but that's not really the problem since it's afixed to the springs....

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigcountrysg View Post
They are a double bar design meaning they have two bars mounting to the axle but only one mounting point at the frame. Making them look like ladders. Hence the reason why they are called ladder bars.
Yeah, I believe the ladderbar style is more effective, but I don't really have a problem now, figured adding another 70 hp though is going to make it one though. Also, the single bar is simpler...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TANK'S 250 View Post
the length you will need is 7'1" for proper arch when the springs compress.
Ok, great - why though?
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TANK'S 250 View Post
bigcountrysg- For traction bars,..it is normally attached at the 6:30 position,....if he mounts it where you are suggesting,...it will zero effect in prevent axle wrap.

the length you will need is 7'1" for proper arch when the springs compress.


Maintain...if you want some REALLY good quality bars....with HEIM joints,..and all the proper grade 8 hardware....at a ridiculously good price...PM me.
+1 for Tank's mounting position.......If you mount at 9:00 you will have no effect in preventing axle wrap.
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  #9  
Old 04-30-2008, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TANK'S 250 View Post
bigcountrysg- For traction bars,..it is normally attached at the 6:30 position,....if he mounts it where you are suggesting,...it will zero effect in prevent axle wrap.

the length you will need is 7'1" for proper arch when the springs compress.


Maintain...if you want some REALLY good quality bars....with HEIM joints,..and all the proper grade 8 hardware....at a ridiculously good price...PM me.
When I make them I make the double bar style. So when they mount they mount centered on the axle tube at 9pm. But the bars are at the top and bottom of the axle tube.
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Old 04-30-2008, 07:00 PM
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bigcountrysg - I'm not "seeing" what you mean...I can't picture it in my head.

I was responding to what he was building..and the pic he posted.

And with a single bar design,...the ONLY spot to attach it to the axle...is between 6:15 and 6:45 ..to be effective.


Here is a "good read" on traction bar systems..

Google Image Result for http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/susp/axlewrap/soa4.gif
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