2006 powerstroke hard warm start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:47 AM
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2006 powerstroke hard warm start

I have a 2006 F-250 with a 6.0 Powerstroke, it runs GREAT but it seems to roll over for a long time before it starts and when it is warm I have to use starting fluid to get it started back again. any suggestions?
I have done a few updates, the High Pressure fuel pump and the plugs in the heads, the only thing I can think of is the EGR delete has not been done yet

Last edited by VinceS1964; 02-22-2014 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceS1964 View Post
any suggestions?
Yep. Lets start by never squirting your 6.0 with starting fluid again...unless you really really really want to do headgaskets.

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Originally Posted by VinceS1964 View Post
I have done a few updates, the High Pressure fuel pump and the plugs in the heads, the only thing I can think of is the EGR delete has not been done yet
There is a HFCM that resides under the truck, on the frame rail more or less under the drivers seat..then there is a High Pressure Oil Pump that is in the valley of the engine under a cover below the turbo. (don't know which one you did)

On the HPOP, there is a fitting that basically should have never been used. It is basically the same type of fitting you see on air-lines in the garage (Snap-To_Connect or STC). Now think back ... how many air-lines have you heard leaking? That is my point.
A small leak in the High Pressure Oil System would give you the "long crank to start warm" or "No-start warm." This isn't to say that your STC fitting is definitely the problem. There are other parts that will give the same symptom. That is the standpipes and dummy plugs. The only way to pinpoint which one it is would be to test the HPO system with compressed air, command the IPR valve closed and listening where the leak is.
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Old 02-22-2014, 12:37 PM
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This is a pdf of the procedure. Keep in mind that the HPOP pictured will differ from you have because it is an 04 engine. The pump changed in 05, and had that dumb fitting on it...the oil rails are the same.
You will also need a fitting for the oil rails. You remove the ICP sensor and introduce air into the rail that way. The threads for the sensor hole are M12 x 1.5
You will have to make your own pigtail to command the IPR. Use straight 12 volts, but only for about 25 seconds at a time..then let the IPR "rest."
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:12 AM
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I have replaced or updated the hpop fitting and also the standpipes in the heads and not sure if it goes with the problem at hand but I am losing coolant also not sure where it is going but seems to be low after every time I drive it ?
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:43 AM
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I would like to have my truck bullet proof and i wanted to know where is a good place to order all the parts for it and would that make the truck more reliable.
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:45 AM
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Where do you purchase all the part to have my 06 ford f250 bullet proof.
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceS1964 View Post
I have replaced or updated the hpop fitting and also the standpipes in the heads and not sure if it goes with the problem at hand but I am losing coolant also not sure where it is going but seems to be low after every time I drive it ?
The hard-to-start-hot pretty much nails the fact that one of your problems are oil delivery related (in the HPO system). Standpipes, dummyplugs and for the year, the STC fitting are the usual suspects..however not the only ones. The air-test is the only way to nail down where the leak is.

For the loss of coolant, that is probably a failed Oil cooler AND a failed EGR cooler.
Yes, both.
The oil cooler is a liquid/liquid style cooler. The coolant flows through to pull the heat out of the hot oil. The design of the oil cooler is such that any garbage that is in the coolant will stick in the oil cooler. Over time the amount of garbage in the coolant passages of the oil cooler slows the coolant flow. The EGR cooler gets its coolant flow directly from the oil cooler. Slower moving coolant and the high temperatures that the EGR cooler encounters quickly lead to a failure. The EGR cooler cracks internally and begins to leak coolant. When the EGR valve is closed, the coolant will flow into the exhaust, up through the turbo and out the exhaust pipe as steam or liquid.
To check your EGR cooler for leaking, park the truck on a decline. Pop the EGR valve out. If the soot on the EGR valve or in the intake is anything other than a dry packed powder, your EGR cooler is gone. If you can't determine that, leave the truck like this overnight and check the bottom of the hole for the presence of moisture.
If you replace just the EGR cooler, you reacted to a symptom and have not addressed the underlying cause. A new EGR cooler will not last long unless the oil cooler is replaced at the same time.

This is the failure that has given the 6.0 it bad reputation. The coolant flowing from the failed egr cooler leaks into the intake manifold, into the combustion chambers and pops the head gaskets. You will need to pressure test the cooling system to determine whether or not your head gaskets have been compromised.
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