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2001 F350 CCSB Build

7K views 46 replies 11 participants last post by  Firth4X4 
#1 ·
Well here she is picked it up for $3500. 2001 F350 CCSB Lariat 7.3 4X4 Auto trans with mild lift and awful looking 20" wheels. Has unknown engine issue. I was told engine is locked up, but a 15/16 socket on the vibration damper bolt says otherwise. Also told has dead cylinder from starting fluid. Not sure whats wrong. Its been sitting for quite a while. Batteries are junk. I went into this truck on worst care scenario of pulling the engine and rebuilding which is going to happen im sure. But first lets see if it will fire up. Before it got dark last night threw the jumper box on it real quick only to hear the starter grinding away. Both bolts where way loose. Pulled it out to see if its still good, seems fine. Gonna throw it back in and tighten everything up and see what happens! Lots lots more to come!

PLANS:
Performance engine rebuild
ZF6 swap!
Ditch all the chrome!
Front end needs work too





 
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#3 ·
Were you located? Sorry random question.
 
#5 ·
Well started the tear down. Got the radiator and front of engine mostly apart. Anyone have a part # for a decent power steering pump pulley puller for these trucks? Gonna need one. Also seen the engine valley full of oil, looks like the HPOP has issues. More pics to come.
 
#7 ·
Shes out, a little sketchy with the harbor freight cherry picker maxed out.



Lonely under the hood now.



The "heavy duty" harbor freight engine stand is holding up to the DT444E!



Dont forget to remove the Y pipe that connects your two exhaust manifold up pipes or you will hit the cab! Learned the hard way!



Parts are piling up!



Found out why the engine valley is covered in oil! Right side HPOP line feeding the head is gone! Probably why it wouldnt start too! Doh! :frown2:

 
#9 ·
Finally got some time, she is tore down and ready to head to the machine shop which nearest one is over 100 miles 1 way so it might be a little bit.

Found my problem #5 piston caught it in time no damage to cylinder or head



 
#11 ·
What's your horsepower goal?

Got all kinds of fun stuff on the shelves. :scuffy
Numbers wise im not sure.

Full force stage 1's
Terminantor HPOP
Havent decided on what tuning yet
Turbo outlet and wicked wheel
Riffraff intake
Already have 4" turbo back

Need to find some forged rods so I can get this engine put back together first. Looks like it should clean up nicely to .010 over on the cylinders. Going to use the Motorcraft overhaul kit.
 
#16 ·
Project is not dead! OEM rebuild kit has arrvied and engine is back from machine shop. More updates soon.

Also tossed the 20's and went with 315's. Not big enough though so found a used set of 37's just need some wheels.

Pic with 315's:

 
#17 ·
Need more updates. Lol. Thinking I should of rebuilt the internals. But I can't go without my truck this winter. So much for mine suppose to be mechanically sound.

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#18 ·

Block is painted. Chose Ford semi-gloss black, blue, and gray.


Gray for the engine valley.


Black for the block.


Turned out nice.


Oil clearance on the crank is tits for a 200k crank that the machine shop only had to polish. STD bearings.


Piston oilers installed, then crank.


Hopefully some pistons tommrow!
 
#19 ·
Very nice.

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#20 ·
More progress!


Rod bearing clearance was also tits.


Highly recommend one of these ring compressors from ARP! This one is for .030 over stock bore.


Tight clearance between crank counter weight and piston skirt never realized it was that close.


And here we sit waiting for lifters and head bolts! Short block is done.
 
#21 ·
Looking really nice. And getting closer.

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#22 ·
Did you by chance run a weld around your oil squirters?
They are know for coming out.
 
#27 ·
Looks good.

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#28 ·
Looks great - all shiny new parts! I plan to do this to my 7.3 but I've never done such a thing with any motor. Silly question but what the hell do I say to the machine shop once I break everything down and bring it in to the shop? I honestly don't know - OP and anyone else, please school me. As far as buying an overhaul kit, I know that I have to break it down first, then buy the overhaul kit depending on the bore size - that's all i know reading some here and there. Thanks
 
#29 ·
Tear down your engine then take all the parts down there (block, heads, crank, rods, cam). They will measure everything and let you know what your bore size will be, bearing size for the rods/mains, measure the cam and see if its flattened out or not. They can do all the tricky stuff like pressing in new cam and rod bushings etc, even the injector cups. So when you get everything back you start assembling. All my machine work cost me $1700 that is all new everything in the heads, block .030, balance crank/rods, etc. Ford overhaul kit HIGHLY RECOMMEND its $1100. And you will need LOTS of misc gaskets, hoses, seals, new parts, mounts. Plan on a minimum of $4000, I am going to be more like $6000 with performance injectors, HPOP, turbo, all new fuel and oil lines, etc. It aint cheap but it beats $60K for a new Super Duty bogged down with emissions! And you can have pride in knowing your truck inside and out.
 
#31 ·
6 grand!!! Not to bad. You buy you overhaul kit from the Ford dealer or from a vendor?
 
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