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1999 F250 first 7.3L

25K views 137 replies 15 participants last post by  GETFURIOUS 
#1 ·
Picked up a diesel again finally! Got this 99 late build 7.3 couple weeks ago. Changed all fluids n filters minus coolant, need to order few more parts.

Does need brakes bad... Gonna go with ford rotars from sunrise and generic pads since I don't tow very much at all.

After that I need to address a Vaccum leak or defective part, either pump, reservoir, solenoid etc. the ac and heat wrok great just stuck on defrost haha.


Also the doors and stuff seal, but anyone ever stick any thicker padding to tighten up the fit with the suicide doors. When you close them they won't move or rattle, but going down a bumpy road it's not bad but not up to my standards haha. More picks soon stuck in Denver til tomkrrow
 

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#2 ·
Also...
I was gonna stick with green coolant and the sca addative, but with a build date of 2/99 I was thinking doing the cat ELC like I did with my previous 6.0.

So I was thinking:

-4 gal of zerex cat elc, ton of distilled water. I'm not doing a chemical just tons of drains and refills til it's clear and clean.
-Thermostat and gasket
-billet thermostat housing and gasket
-dual alternator hose

Someone said I have the early 99 front end, but the late engine. Should I get more numbers from engine or something to make sure?
 
#6 ·
From research seems you are correct. I leave Denver in couple
Hours I'll see if I have the round or squarish u bolts up front.

Also I read a lot about how I can swap the hub assembly and rotors to a late 99 version. With that being said...

1. Do I need to change out calipers and pads too? Or would it go like this.

Remove old hubs,rotors, install late models and pads/calipers are irrelevant?

2. I have rear disk breaks (thought it was odd for a 99) do I need to leave e99 rotors there or will I need to do custom work to swap to late models?
 
#7 ·
Well ordered new rotors and pads for front and rear. Probably fasted $423 I spent in a long, long time lol... I'll be sure to show you had bad the current rotors are when I take them off. Makes me wonder why the previous owner cared so much about fluids and filters but ignored the brakes.

After that I'll be doing the cat elc swap.


For that I'll need:
4gal elc
Tons of distilled water
Thermostat/gasket
Dual alt hose

Is it a good idea for the billet thermo gasket housing or is that just a shiny want?
 
#8 ·
yes get the billet housing don't bother with an aftermarket thermostat though. Use a good layer of rtv with the new housing and make sure you have a square oring.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Wow! Just did front and rear rotors and pads.... Forgot how much work it al was. Wasn't super difficult, just kind of tedious and stuff by myself. But for brakes being. Half the price of motorcraft in really impressed with fit and finish.

Plus rotated tires since they looked like haven't been done in a it...
Next is coolant flush, changing to ELC, dual upper rad hose and new thermostat housing and t stat.
 

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#13 ·
So I'm sitting in truck waiting for wife to finish her tan and I start digging through papers in glove box. (Only had truck a few wks)

I have the original owners original purchase contract from ford! This dude paid over 36k cash in 1999 for this truck hahaha.

I felt bad. Original owner passed, and family fought over truck so estate manager sold it. But just kinda cool to find something like that in near perfect condition over 17 years old in a glove box...
 
#18 ·
Well replaces the leaky vacuum reservoir and the burnt out vacuum pump and voila! AC IN DA FACE!!! haha feels good and man it must of been like that for long time, lots of dust and stuff.

Next week pwr steering flush with Mercon/Dex III

Brake fluid flush with valvoline synthetic dot 3

Coolant flush (remove green, put in ELC)

Ps anyone know where to get elc cheaper? I used to go to napa but $18-23 a gallon now!! I paid $14 a gallon only 2 years ago for my 6.0 lol...
 
#19 ·
Couple weeks ago changed brake and coolant fluid. Also found out brand new pwr steering pump so that was cool.

Also I replaced my drivers side needle bearing becuase on cold morning I would get a him sound that would go away when I turn my
Hubs in.

But my old needle bearings were fairly nice with Greece. No grooves on axel shaft thankfully.


Next is clean and reseal the camper wheel that came on. I was thinking the clear qwick seal?
 
#20 ·
Well been a few months but since then removed the camper and she looks like a real pick up now.

Also got a glow plug fault code on bank 1 so blue99stroker offered to help me fix it.

Got 8 glow plugs, 2 UVCH's, and 2 valve cover gaskets and few misc I rings.

She do for an oil change too and she also tower a flat bed trailer of furniture for 6 hours average 15-16mpg not bad for 5-6k crap haha
 

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#22 ·
well my wife and I are finally committing to beef up our dwindling travel savings and we are going to take a 1-3 month travel up to Alaska or down to south America and we have been reading and reading and not sure which would be more fun but either way I have a build list so far....




-draw tite front hitch

-tru cool trans cooler

-edge insight cts with egt probe

-pmf shackle 2-3in level kit (haven't measured, ANYONE have issues or feel the bash bar is worth/needed?)

-X5 285/75R16 bfgoodrich MTs

-AIS Intake by ford (lots of dust/dirt roads/mud/debris)

-DIY Truck bed-I have some drawing but we will be living in the truck bed because I have a good condition camper shell it will be insulated with lots of accessories with 12v plugs, LED's, solar, extra battery backups we are considering a military trailer or pop up camper but they are $$$$

-super winch 12k synthetic rope, some snatch blocks, and wire kit to run winch on front/back

-escaper buddies

https://www.amazon.com/Innovations-20333-Escaper-Orange-Traction/dp/B00AV2HONS

anyone use these ?:|


-on board air system most likely via air comp, tank and extra lines/fitting/etc

-still looking what jack would be the best and I fear a custom front/rear bumper might be needed for extraction/recovery and adding storage etc

-I plan on getting a satcom phone and or my HAM radio license for emergencies

-added fuel filter for risky diesel?????

-12vt inverter with 12vt fridge I found some really reliable ones for under $400 that have been dropped driving down highway and start chilling in less then 15 minutes

the list will be slowly edited.
 
#23 ·
not a whole lots of changes for the truck but...

Changed the front dif with fresh 75w-90 full syn Valvoline, and changed the rear with Valvoline 75w-140 full syn with limited slip additive.

in about 10-15 days gonna change the transmission and t case fluid.

Could I disconnect the one of the trans cooler lines and get a few extra quarts of old trans fluid out when I drop the pan and change the filter, fluid n gasket etc?
 
#25 ·
Ok cool, I am just really nervous flushing the transmission at any of the shops or the dealer here since im almost 130k and no idea when it was done. so figured:

drain fluid, (approx. 8 quarts) replace fluid n filter, drive around few hundrew or few thousand miles, replace fluid alone again,

then eventually Id like to add the 26 row 6.0l trans cooler.

I guess myself and few others have had really bad experiences with flushes so how do you feel about what I wanted to do listed above Corey?
 
#27 ·
so do you think if I do the following I will be alright?

1. get new motorcraft trans filter and pan gasket (I know its reusable but its 17 years old so why not)
2. drain fluid and replace filter and gasket
3. poor 8 or so quarts of dexmerc by Valvoline in and check etc.

drive 500 or 1000 miles or so and drain fluid again but leave filter and replace fluid again

call it good and then at 150k just drain and replace fluid n filter every 30k after that?
 
#28 ·
6.0 trans cooler should be here Nov 1.
ordered oem pan gasket and trans filter (mine are almost 18 years old :/)
picking up 13 quarts of dexmerc from napa in couple hours.

I'll be sure to post pictures and reviews and im leaving for Idaho in couple weeks towing 84 4runner so i'll have plenty of ******* shenanigans to post up.
 
#29 ·
You could go with that.. I prefer amsoil ATF especially on high mileage 4r100 transmission fluid changes (if I absolutely have to change the fluid.. I normally like to leave it alone for as long as possible).. I have seen 4r100's start shifting differently after a full service (high mileage 4r100's). The reason I like amsoil is I've never had a problem with the tranny acting differently afterwards...
 
#30 · (Edited)
hmmm I haven't actually ordered the napa dextron but I am also only replacing the pan fluid about 8 quarts, 2 quarts in the t-case, and 1-2 quarts for the extra large trans cooler.

ugh is the amsoil stuff mixable what what im assuming is the original mercon in my truck? I called Ford, and called numerous shops from the area, none reported trans service, just a warranty job on steering pump and replacing upper/lower ball joints. I thankfully have $ set aside but id rather not put it in the transmission right now. my dream truck is a 4dr so just trying to maintin my supercab while I have it etc.


ugh you guys and making me double minded. I am doing the napa dextron and I'll report back after a 1900 mile drive lol.
 
#31 ·
okay sorry I didn't notice that you said you weren't doing a full fluid change.. i agree with just adding a little bit of fresh dextron.. That's probably your best bet I definitely wouldn't mix ATF.. But Amsoil makes amazing ATF.. The engine oil is a little overrated IMO tho :)
 
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