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6.0 Shorty race truck!

10K views 42 replies 12 participants last post by  Orin250 
#1 ·
Bought an 06 6.0 powerstroke regular cab long bed xlt model. Has 270,000 miles on it and when driving would cut out and stall. Paid 3,250 for it cash and was able to drive it home! Once home I changed the oil and ended up with a no start issue! I was able to diagnose it as a lpo issue. So I replaced lpop and engine front cover! Started the truck but still had the same problem of it cutting out and now had a thump noise from intake! Thinking its a lifter I decided to pull the motor. Once pulled I dropped the oil pan and lookey what I found! Lifters and cam all checked out.




 
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#2 · (Edited)
Little bit of an update here! Engine is all tore apart! Sent the heads to the machine shop and have new lifters on the way. Studs and gaskets will be next on the purchase list. I have the 20mm dowel pins... I'm also gonna be cleaning up the block and painting it.




 
#3 ·
whats the power goal on this build.

I love old beat up work trucks turning into something unique, and

being a 6.0 just adds to that uniqueness.
 
#4 ·
My goal is to make this a fun but reliable daily driver. Right now my goal is set at around 500rwhp and I'm confident I can get there with 155cc/30% and a Powermax. First I'm gonna put it back together bullet proofed and drive it for a while to weed out any other possible issues. While I'm doing that the short bed coversion will come into play! Once that's completed the turbo and injectors I listed will be installed. At that point the truck will be an extremely fun and reliable DD!
 
#5 ·
Look up Stroked Lightning for some pics if you want to see what it can be! Gene (WEWELD) in CA has done several of the SB conversions.
 
#7 ·
Thanks slated4greatness I'll be checking them out! Also the pmaxx is a very cost effective turbo for my build and a fuel system hopefully won't be needed right away. If it is needed then I plan on running a sump kit with a 6.7 pump with a inline filter and a DD reg return fuel bowl delete.
 
#9 ·
Well got my heads back from the machine shop! No cracks, valve seats are solid and not leaking. Also got a new set of lifters and a reseal kit for the whole bottom end!
I should also mention that the previously thought 20mm dowel pins are in fact 18mm. Measuring them with a tape measure is ineffective, the correct way is with a digital caliper. This is important so that you don't order the wrong head gasket kit! I will get a picture soon of the correct measurement.

 
#11 ·
Update here! Started putting the engine back together today. The Victor Rienz kit was high quality, I was impressed. It included everything to reseal the bottom end, including the front and rear cover. I first power washed the oil pan, sec. oil pan, and front and rear covers to get all the grease and grim off. Then with new gaskets and seals she went back together. Also I soaked the new lifters in clean oil for about an hour before installing.




 
#12 ·
Got everything organized into bags and marked them that way I don't lose anything. Also tore apart the turbo, and am going to be sandblasting the soot off. And lastly I power washed the rocker boxes, valve covers, engine bracket mounts, and the turbo pedestal.


 
#13 ·
Headgaskets have arrived! I went with Felpro over OEM, it is a high quality gasket and have heard many using these over the OEM. I guess I'll find out for myself! The part number is for 18mm dowel pins. Note: that these gaskets don't come with new dowel pins or the stand pipes(like the oem kit does). I'll be getting these separately this week. Also the ARP head studs are here!

 
#14 · (Edited)
I obtained the special tools to install the front and rear crank seals. These tools are essential to install these seals. Then installed and torqued the new crank pulley bolts and also installed and tourqued the new flywheel bolts. Next thing was turbo clean up. I ended up just using a die grinder with a red pad to remove the caked on soot. Then made sure to coat the surfaces in anti seize. Lastly I got the block prepped! This was a tedious process. I first scuffed the surface using the die grinder and a yellow roloc bristle disc. Then I sprayed the block down with wd-40. I used a sharpening stone, covered in wd-40, to clean the rest. In combination using the disc and then the stone and then the disc and stone again multiple times, I think it turned out very good. It is important to not get to carried away with the disc. Also with the stone you must have even and light pressure and cover the entire block going from front to rear and then back to the front. I would continue this until I noticed the stone getting gummed up, at which point I would clean and use the pad before lubing and using the stone again. Also the last pic is the finished product. The marks are stains left in the block, this is ok as long as the surface is smooth!






 
#15 ·
I would definitely replace that unison ring, looks to be severely worn and will cause problems, as far as the deck surface its hard to tell but looks like you need to spend more time with the stones to get it a little smoother.
 
#16 ·
^^^What he said....on both accounts.

I know you said you're planning on upgrading it later anyways, but the ring being wore out like that will keep the vanes from being in the proper place and performance will suffer. A new unison ring is cheap and you're there anyways.

And yes, those stains look a bit too dark to be what I'd consider acceptable. The darker it is, the more material is there (creating an uneven surface). If this is truly a race truck that's going to see some big power and high cylinder pressures, the more time you can take here to set yourself up for success, the better you'll be :thumb:
 
#17 ·
I shoulda mentioned that the ring is indeed bad, however I'm gonna run it for now to get the truck running, the powermax won't be far behind that. As far as the block cleaning goes, the surface is smooth and the pic can be deceiving. I haven't set the heads on yet so I'll check again for smoothness before this weekend when the heads go on. Thanks for the replies guys!
 
#18 ·
No, I'm not. I apologize if my comment is breaking some rules I haven't been on here in years. I will delete or edit it if necessary. Just trying to help this young man out any way I can as I'm also from Michigan.
 
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#20 ·
I'm very knowledgable in bulletproofing 6.0s and have a handful under my belt, I also work on 6.0s almost daily. I appreciate the constructive criticism and will take all of it into account. This was my first time cleaning the block with the stone. This build is going to consist of many different companies parts as I explore different options. This is my personal truck so I'm trying a bunch of different things.
 
#21 ·
What made you decide to go with a Powermax and not something like a KC turbo?
 
#24 ·
Im going to go with the powermax because it's a proven, reliable, cost effective turbo. Future future plans I'm thinking a non vgt at which point I can sell the powermax easily......
The heads went on today! I'll post up pics in a bit!
 
#25 ·
Here I go guys, bare with me! First off I ordered Felpro dowel pins and oem dowel pins(Felpro right...oem left). Felpros dowel pin came with rust on it and oem was quality. I cleaned up the Felpro dowels with Emory cloth and installed. Next came the head gaskets. Note that the numbers on the bottom left of the gasket face up. I sucked out the stud holes and also blew them out with air. Next was to thread in the studs. Note that all the studs are the same length and that the holes are the same depth which means they should all stick out the same amount!!! If they don't then liquid or dirt is in the hole. Next came installation of the heads which slipped right on with ease. Starting the small 5 bolts at the top of the head for insurance to keep the head from moving. The rocker box, pushrods, spring bridges, and rocker arms were installed next. I did started the rocker arm bolts but did not torque yet. Using the included ARP lube I lubed the stud threads, washers and nuts. These were tourqued in a sequence and pattern and end result is 210lb-ft. I then tourqued the rocker arm bolts and the two rocker box bolts. At this point the glow plugs went in and were torqued. Next all the injectors were resealed lubed with clean engine oil and installed and torqued. I'm still waiting on standpipes and dummy plugs to show up so stay tuned!







 
#26 ·
What are you using for top end gaskets, know you used Victor gaskets for the bottom end and felpro for head gaskets.
 
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