After getting the truck started, I figured out that the clutch was fine, however the engine was in poor health and that the transmission was stuck in fourth gear. I thought that maybe some shift forks were broken, but after pulling the trans, this is what I found...
On the left you can see the old input shaft and on the right is the new one. The transmission wasn't stuck in a gear, it was stuck in direct, which happens to be fourth gear. $700 later in trans parts and a lot of cleaning, I rebuilt the ZF 5-speed and it works great.
After I fixed the transmission and 4-wheel drive, the truck was drive able, but just barely. It was seriously lacking in power and pep. So I decided I was gonna rebuild the engine in it, because I'm a full time college student and work full time during the summers, it took me awhile to save up enough to start that process. To make it Easier on my self, I bought a truck that has all the same components in it that my uncle was going to scrap, it was an old farm truck and I paid $400 for it. It only had 270,000 miles on it, so I decide to rebuild that engine instead.
This is what I got back from the machine shop and I went to work right away.
Broadway Machine in Oklahoma City did all the work for me. The block and headed were resurfaced, the cylinders were bored 20 over, the center line of the crank was straightened. Heads were completely rebuilt and pressure tested, both the crank and cam were polished, and the rods were straightens up on both ends.
I also bought the engine rebuild kit from them, it came with
Mohle pistons
Clevite bearings
Lifters
All the seals and gaskets
The last picture I posted, the engine has all its internals done. I decided to go with an aftermarket T-500 HPOP and Stage 1.5 Full Force Injectors.
Turbo was next on the list to rebuild, but I had a lot of trouble separating the center cartridge from the exhaust housing. Everywhere I looked, the only advice I could find was to tap on it with a hammer. Well, that's crappy advice because of a few reasons-
1- considering the amount of heating and cooling cycles that a turbo with 270,000 miles on it has gone through, it is rust welded together.
2- There is not a good place to tap on the housing or cartridge without deforming the steel.
Because of this, I built a puller for it instead.
It worked better then imagined. Let me know if I should go into more depth on how it works.
I decided to go ahead and convert this truck to an electric fuel pump. I'm going to use AN line and fittings for my fuel lines that run on top of the engine. Once I get the two lines made that run from the back of the heads, I'll install the turbo, get the engine on the hoist, and install the up pipes. Once that's done, it will be time to set the engine in the truck.
Here is how the truck looks now
I also have purchased a full exhaust kit from Riff Raff Diesel, made by Diamond Eye Performence.
Thank you, I was really happy with how it turned out.
To get were im at now, its taken me approimatly 1.5 years. However, i'm a full time college student and work full time during the summers, so time and money are pretty large constraints for me right now.
Riff Raff has been an awesome resource for me to get parts at a good price.
I haven't updated in awhile, but I've made some progress.
So I got the engine and transmission installed in truck. I had some issues with getting it to start for the first time. Come to find out, the main ground for the PCM goes all the way back to the radiator support bracket..
Once I figured that out, she ran like a champ.
This last weekend I got the accessories put back on the engine and I made my repairs to the radiator support bracket.
Thanks man
I love the red too, at first I wasn't sure how it would turn out. I'm kinda making the truck an international theme, so that's where the red and black paint scheme came from.
Sorry for the delay on updates, but I got the fuel system finished up.
When I was doing research on how to do my fuel system, I liked what other people have done, but I didn't want the fuel pump to run constantly when the key is in the on position, also i didn't want to just have a switch in the cab that I had to turn on all the time. So, i called on some of my fellow engineering friends that have experience in electrical circuit design. Together we designed a separate "brain" for the fuel pump. once the key is in the on position, the fuel pump kicks on for about 10 seconds to prime the system while the glow plugs are cycling. Once the timer runs out, fuel pump shuts off. Once you start the truck, there is an oil pressure switch that signals the fuel pump to continue running.
Ill start with pictures of the plumbing of my fuel system and then move to the wiring part.
I pieced my fuel system together my self with the help some research. I have an aeromotive regulator, AN lines and fittings for the top of the engine and rubber hose running back to the fuel filter setup.
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