Easiest way to ID the engine?

[oldtimer550]

I just bought a 96 F250 4x4 ex cab with a "swapped in" diesel.
The original 7.3 crapped out, and this one was taken out of a bus...it has 60K on it. It looks nothing like my 7.3, it has a metal screw-on fuel filter on a mount to the left of the intake..
I suspect it's a 6.9...obviously, no turbo. I need to know so I can tell the next owner.

A little back-ground...
It starts right up, and runs well.

I paid $400 for this thing, so I had a parts donor for the OTHER F250 I bought with it...the cab rockers and fenders are toasted....the other is a 5.8 5 speed with a 9 foot fisher plow that has a mint cab and frame and such...the bed is crunched.
The diesel will donate the tires, the bed, the headlights, the bumpers, and then be ready for the scrap yard or sale to someone who wants the engine/tranny/transfer/axles.
What would the value of the engine and tranny be, if it has any real value?

[oldtimer550]

OK, did a bit of digging, and found this on identifying the engine:
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somewhere, the info on a quick ID was lost over the years.
one. take two 12pt sockets. one is a 7/16" the other is 1/2".
two. locate a head bolt, it's easy to find, the're 12pt. bolt heads.
three. see which socket fits on there.
if the 7/16 fits and not the 1/2, you own a 6.9
if the 1/2 fits and not the 7/16, you own a 7.3
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But what are the relative values of a 60K mile 7.3 or 6.9 with a good 4 speed auto?

[FordGuy100]

Yup, head bolts will tell you what kind of motor you got there.

Does the motor run? If its running, I would say anywhere from $500-750 depending on how it runs and the buyer. Auto tranny, a couple hundred. I would probably try to sell as a set. Once you yank the motor, the price goes down. Dont know how many people I've heard say DO NOT buy a used motor if you cant hear it run, and pay the full price. If you cant hear it run, pay scrap price, cause worst case, thats whats going to happen.

[oldtimer550]

It runs very well, I'm going to drive it home.