Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

Repacking the wheel bearings on a 2WD '99 SD

2K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  Karls03 
#1 ·
So I've been getting a little growl out of my bearings lately, so today I figured I'd repack them and do a oil change on the truck. Well so happens last night my driver side headlight died so I ended up picking up headlights too. So here's a install with a ton of pics for the repacking for all of you who haven't or don't know how. Here we go:

The first couple pics are really dark, for some reason my exposure was turned waay down on my camera so bear with me.

Here's the goodies: 5gal of Rotella 15w40, Motorcraft filter, diesel fuel supp and some jack stands.


Here's a bearing packer, you can get it at Sears for $20 or so. I got this off of Snap-On tools so I payed a little bit more. You can also hand pack the bearings, but I find that doesn't work as well as is a lot more messy.


First I started off by breaking the lugs loose. I think the stock lugs are 22mm but I have aftermarket ones, anyways I used a 21mm socket with a 25" breaker bar to break them loose, just enough so I can spin the lugs off once the front end is jacked up.


2WD front brake setup, nothing too complicated to take apart.


First I popped off the dust cover, used a screw driver to pry it out and hit it out the rest of the way with a hammer.



Next you want to pull the cotter pin out, usually can bend the one end and pull it through or can cut it off and install a new one. I didn't have any new ones around so I reused the old ones. :doh:


Next the retainer (don't remember the technical term for it) comes off.


Now you have access to the spindle nut. It's a 27mm and should turn right off, it shouldn't be on there gorilla tight, just snug. It's normal threads so it's lefty loosey. :thumb:


Next there is a washer that comes off, probably will be stuck to the smaller outer bearing. Remove it and then you have access to the outer bearing.


Now you have to remove the caliper so the rotor can come off, now you can do this 2 ways. You can take the caliper off and then the bracket or just leave the caliper connected to the bracket and take off the bracket bolts. I went with option #2. The bolts circled are the bracket bolts, both are a 21mm. Unless you have a impact gun/rachet you'll probably need a breaker bar to bust these loose. I used a 1/2" 21mm impact socket with my breaker bar to break them loose. Then I used the socket on a 1/2" rachet.


With the bracket bolts off, I moved the caliper behind the dust shield resting on the suspension. Never let the caliper hang from the brake line! ! :doh:


Bracket bolts and bearing washer(??)


Next the you have to pull the rotor off. It will slide right off, but before you do that be sure to pull the smaller bearing off and set it aside.

Here's the smaller outer bearing. Has a decent amount of grease still in it..


Make sure to wipe off the old grease from the spindle, make sure there is no rust, or any other objects on it cause it will be picked up by the bearings and more then likely cause noise.


Back side of the rotor where the bigger inner bearing is. There is a grease seal that holds it in. You have to remove the seal and bearing.


Now with that removed, be sure to wipe out all the old grease and put some new grease in it. Don't be shy with the grease either. :nod:


Here's the smaller bearing with all the old grease wiped off of it, followed by the larger inner bearing.



Majority of the old grease is out of the rotor, ready for some new grease to be installed.


Now here comes the messy part....packing the bearings with new grease. Put the bearing in the packer and push down on it with the white handle. It will in turn allow grease to be inserted into the bearing. Do the same thing with the smaller bearing and then set it off to the side to be installed later...


Should look like this after a couple of pushes. The packer will also push out any other old grease still in the bearings.


New grease installed in the backside of the rotor, remember don't be shy with the grease.


Inner bearing ready to be installed back into the rotor, then followed by the grease seal.


Should look like this. Then gently tap the seal back into place. Make sure it's flush or it'll come off...:doh:



Now you will have to install new grease in the front side of the rotor followed by the bearing. Also be sure to add new grease to the spindle, again don't be shy with the grease. You don't want any metal on metal contact.




Now slide the rotor on and make sure it's all the way on, it will sit flush on the spindle.


Now you're going to slide the smaller bearing back on and make sure it's it's flush with the rotor and race in the rotor. Now you will put the washer back on and then tighten it up. Now I was taught to spin the spindle nut on while turning the rotor the opposite direction until a couple times until it's snug...This has always worked for me but feel free to let me know if theres another way..


Install the retainer so it's aligned with the hole in the spindle so you can insert the cotter pin back in. It should only go back on one way so it'll line up.


Now insert the cotter pin back into the hole, once it's in be sure to bend up the end so it holds everything in place.


Next you will tap the dust cover back on and give it a spin. Make sure theres no metal on metal noise or growl.


If everything is good, now you can reinstall the caliper/bracket and be sure to tighten the bolts to spec...72 ftlbs


With everything back together, be sure everything is tight and now you can reinstall the wheel. Be sure to torque the lugnuts to 140 ftlbs. Take the truck for a drive and make sure everything is good, there should be no noise if everything was put together correctly.

I hope this can help all of you DIYers who want to do your own work.
 
See less See more
34
#3 ·
Great write-up, best I've ever seen!! Thanks for taking the time and effort to take and post all the great pics. This is the kind of stuff that is really helpful to lots of "first timers".

I would like to add: be sure to use high temp grease designated for use with disc brakes
 
#4 ·
Good point. Glad you guys liked the write up.
 
#5 ·
Thank you for this, noticed the Ex is making front wheel bearing noise so this will get tackled next week.
 
#6 ·
Great write up... in this fast paced world not meny people myself included have or take the time to share the details like you did. Yer a good man charlie brown!

Sent from my SCH-I200 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#7 ·
Pretty cool write-up, I, too, intend to take pictures as I go, but then I get caught up in the maintenance action and forget.

I have always wondered though, what's the purpose of the big gob grease on to the spindle? There's no bearing contact there, and as you mentioned, "wipe off excess grease". If it's for corrosion prevention, then you don't need that much, some, but not that much.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top