Hey guys I got the funds so Im gonna do some stage 1 injectors in my truck from DIY injectors. Ive helped do injectors in cummins before but never a powerstroke and was looking over the instructions and had a couple questions I was hoping could be answered. Hopefully these dont sound like dumb questions. I noticed the HPOP reservoir and crankcase should be drained. where is the HPOP and crankcase drain located?
Also I know you need to remove the oil galley plugs and it says one of the plugs on the outside of the valve covers on the oil rail should be removed for air to go in, where is that located?
I noticed also to use a large syringe and tubing to go down the injector bore and into the cylinder and remove all the fluid then crank the engine a couple times after to remove the rest. How do I hand crank the engine? and will that just push the rest of the fluid out the bore and I clean it up with a lint free towel?
I also noticed that with the glow plugs out and injectors back in I should turn the engine over to get the rest of the fluids out of the cylinder. Do I hook the wire harnesses back up to the injectors then hook up the VC gasket to the harness running to the solenoid before doing this?
Also with cranking the engine as said above do I leave the oil galley plugs out as well and replace them once oil is coming out of them. Then put the valve covers back on and turn it over?
Im sorry for all the questions Im just trying to get it all straightened out, thanks for the help
yeah Ive watched it a couple times, the whole removal of the injectors I understand, its some other write ups where the engine is still in the truck like Im going to be doing that I was worried about. The part about draining the crankcase and HPOP resevoir- Ijus dont know where the drain for the crankcase and where the resovoir are. And also purging the air and fluids from the cylinders is confusing me and thats the two things that arent shown in his videos
yeah, i hear ya on that. i am also sketched out on doing it myself, that is why geoff is going to help me do it. i would hate to hydro lock the engine just because i didnt get all the oil out of the cylinders, just thinking about it makes me nervoushnoes:
yeah no kidding the whole hydro locking of the engine is what is really scaring me, it seems like the injectors on the cummins I helped out with were so much easier, there was no worrying about oil in the cylinders
Hey dont worry Im kinda thinkin about going that route too, Id really like a powerful powerstroke and a powerful fummins the best of both worlds
And I PMed Maintain and Pipelayer Im hoping they can answer all my million questions since I know how knowledgable both of these guys are with this stuff
ya well maybe way down the road i might just transplant a 12v into mine.... might be a better way to go bc i will have a VERY hard time parting with my truck when the time comes
I used my handy-dandy hanes manual for injector removal tips. They are very vice to have around.
Remove the valve covers and find the galley plugs. Let the oil drain before removing any injectors.
The syringe is a good idea. After installing the injectors, replace the galley plugs, remove the glow plugs and crank the engine over a few times to blow the oil out. I shorted the starter relay to spin the engine without it fueling.
This is all I did when I did mine, but many people have other tips and hints also.
Hey guys I got the funds so Im gonna do some stage 1 injectors in my truck from DIY injectors. Ive helped do injectors in cummins before but never a powerstroke and was looking over the instructions and had a couple questions I was hoping could be answered. Hopefully these dont sound like dumb questions. I noticed the HPOP reservoir and crankcase should be drained. where is the HPOP and crankcase drain located?
You don't necessarily need to drain the oil from the engine crankcase. You will however need to drain the oil from the HPOP reservoir and the oil galley rails in the head. I have seen this done using a small tygon tubing mounted in a bucket with a lid on it then use a vacuum on the bucket to create vacuum on the tygon line. I used a small pump shaped like a football that has connactions on each side. Most outboard boats have a similiar one on the fuel line to pump fuel to the motor. It was slow but effective. The HPOP reservoir is on the top/front of the engine in front of the fuel bowl. It has an allen wrench plug in the top of it. Inside of it is the gear that turns the HPOP that is mounted to the back of the reservoir inthe valley. Suck as much of the oil out of there as possible. A large syringe or turkey baster with a tygon line on the end of it also works.
Also I know you need to remove the oil galley plugs and it says one of the plugs on the outside of the valve covers on the oil rail should be removed for air to go in, where is that located?
Remove the valve cover and remove the oil galley plugs to drain the oil from the galley lines under the VC. I removed both. You can also remove one of the plugs on the top/inside of the head to allow air to in. I removed my ICP on the front/top of the drivers side of the head. It is plugged into one of these holes.
I noticed also to use a large syringe and tubing to go down the injector bore and into the cylinder and remove all the fluid then crank the engine a couple times after to remove the rest. How do I hand crank the engine? and will that just push the rest of the fluid out the bore and I clean it up with a lint free towel?
I used my handy hand pump but a baster with a hose on it will work fine. Suck out as much oi and fuel out of each cylinder you can thru the injector cup. Now install the injectors. Now fill the galley plugs on the outside of the VC with oil till it drains back out the holes inside the VC then plug them all up with all air removed. Be sure you have the GP's removed at this time. Then you can place the VC back on the engine with atleast 2-4 bolts in it. (trust me you need something to hold that VC on there). Hand tight is fine. You do not need to hook up any wires yet. Then spin the motor over with the starter. This will pump any oil/fuel out that you missed. Now remove the VC and install the GP's
I also noticed that with the glow plugs out and injectors back in I should turn the engine over to get the rest of the fluids out of the cylinder. Do I hook the wire harnesses back up to the injectors then hook up the VC gasket to the harness running to the solenoid before doing this?
See above ^
Also with cranking the engine as said above do I leave the oil galley plugs out as well and replace them once oil is coming out of them. Then put the valve covers back on and turn it over?
Do not leave the galley plugs out when cranking. That will only make a mess and pump more oil in there. See above^
Im sorry for all the questions Im just trying to get it all straightened out, thanks for the help
No problem with all the questions. Ask away. I think I may have some of my injector pics in my thread. This is not a very hard job at all and should not be any reason to be afraid of doing this. If you can change a spark plug and change your oil you will be fine.
Pop valve cover off. Remove oil galley plugs. Remove under valve cover harness. Repeat on other side of motor.
By this time the oil has drained out so go ahead and pop the injectors out. Just the oil deflector and bottom hold down bolt is all you need to get out. Remove the glow plugs as well. Rebuild the injectors and put them back in as the video states. Once that's done leave the glow plugs out and do not hook up the injectors and you can purge the cylinders by cranking it over a few times. Should only get a mist out of the glow plug hole. When that's done finish everything up and start it. You can start it with the valve covers off and I recommend it since I had a glow plug wire short out and if I didn't notice it then it would have taken out the whole UVCH instead of just the glow plugs and then my truck would have been down longer!
Thanks Maintain, Neal and Pipelayer I really appreciate you guys all taking the time to help me out!
Maintain I have one or two more questions, on top of what you told me do I still use a syringe and get all the fuel out of the cylinders before installing the new ones like Neal said?
Im not sure if you didnt mention these cuase neal already had or not and Im not trying to say anyone is wrong cuase obviously you guys all know what you are talking about which is why Im asking the experts.
Do you reccommend draining the HPOP reservoir first too
Also would you reccomend removing a galley plug on the top of the head as well and then fill it with oil til oil comes out of the galley plugs inside the valve cover like Neal said?
And sorry one last one when purging the cylinders with the glow plugs out I leave everything unplugged as far as the injectors and do II leave the connection t the Under valve cover harness that connects on the outside as well?
Thanks again for all the help I just really want to be sure I do this right
Do not drain the oil or anything other then the oil rails.
Reinstall injectors, reinstall oil galley plugs, leave glow plugs out, crank motor a few times to purge cylinders. Put glow plugs in. Refill hpop res. Start truck... do not need the valve covers on.
Change the oil after you get her running right though. Expect a hard start so have a battery charger nearby. Prime the fuel system too by turning the key forward until the WTS light goes out or you hear the fuel pump stop running and repeat at least 5 times. It will run rough for a few... so let it idle and then drive it slowly for a few miles. Don't drive hard otherwise you can score the tips.
Here's my first start up after I put my new motor in. First crank it fired off. I filled the HPOP res, I filled the heads with oil, and I primed the fuel system.
... Prime the fuel system too by turning the key forward until the WTS light goes out or you hear the fuel pump stop running and repeat at least 5 times.
Thanks again for all the help Maintain I really appreciate all the help, I know I have a million questions and I really appreciate you taking the time to answer them. I only have a couple more Im just trying to clarify everything.
Do you by any chance have a picture of where the HPOP reservoir is located Ive been trying to find it but I just cant see it, Im sure its right in front of me.
Did you use a syringe to get fluid out of the cylinders. Then after I purge them like you explained I put everything back together. For filling the heads with oil do I just put oil into the oil fill cap on the valve cover or is this done a different way (hope this doesnt sound like too stupid of a question)
Then I prime the engine and start her up and then change the oil once its running right
Do you by any chance have a picture of where the HPOP reservoir is located Ive been trying to find it but I just cant see it, Im sure its right in front of me.
Yes it's right in front of you. It's just in front of the fuel bowl. It's the rectangular shaped box with a small allen head or similar plug in it. Just open that up, and fill it with a small funnel. No funnel small enough? Roll up a peice of paper like you're making a funnel and use that :thumb:.
Did you use a syringe to get fluid out of the cylinders. Then after I purge them like you explained I put everything back together. For filling the heads with oil do I just put oil into the oil fill cap on the valve cover or is this done a different way (hope this doesnt sound like too stupid of a question)
I just purge the cylinders by cranking the motor over without the glow plugs in. No syringe needed and nothing more then a "MIST" of fuel/oil comes out of the motor if you pull the oil plugs and allow them to empy prior to pulling any injectors.
Then I prime the engine and start her up and then change the oil once its running right
Just fill the HPOP res and get ready to crank. Will probably need battery charger. Don't crank for more then 15 seconds or so and let the starter rest for at least 1 min between cranks like that. It will start, just won't seem like it :lol:
Thanks again maintain that pretty much clears everything up I thought that rectangular part was the reservoir when I was looking, I feel very confident now in removing the injectors. Thanks again for all the help you have no idea how much I appreciate it. Just one last thing when purging do I leave everything meaning the injectors to the wiring harness of course the glow plugs and the harness that attaches to the valve cover on the outside of it unplug then plug it all back in after purging.
oh man, and one more question that i really have no clue about. how to tell if the plungers and other parts are still in good working order? and how important is it to have them flow tested to measure proper flow?
I am sorry I gave you some extra steps that were not necessary. You do not need to drain the reservoir. I told you this because I changed my HPOP at the same time I did the injectors. It is not necessary.
Also it is not necessary to draw fluid from the top of the cylinders if you spin the motor woth no GP's in. I did just because it was me. That is an option left to you. I filled my rails with oil and plugged them up and it helped with the startup. It started on first crank and ran fine. I would suggest as Maintain suggested to change the oil later after it is running fine. It may take as much as 50 mile of driving to clear up but if you refill the rails it may only take a few miles. I would also recommend you clean the FPR screen in the fuel bowl after you do this. I cleaned mine when I had it apart and then had to do it again after it was running. Strange I thought but it worked for me.
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