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Intercooler / 6.0 trans cooler instal pics

3K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  CHUCK 
#1 · (Edited)
Heres a couple pics of the install.
I didnt remove the bumper as some do for the install. I used Banks techni cooler pipe kit. I had to buy the Ford factory intercooler boots, 3 1/4" to 3''. I also had to cut an 1" off the ends of the I/C pies and weld a bead around them to prevent blow off. The AC condesor brkts were shortened and straightened. The support bracket/ hood latch assembly was cut out and replaced with a piece of flat stock. Instead of bolting bottom support brkts to the rad. support, they were welded to the frame. Any questions, pm me, and I'll answer to the best of my ability.

everything removed


holes cut in rad. support


ac condensor brkts cut and straightend



flat stock used for the hood latch. I actually cut the top of the support and welded in the flat stock



1" square stock with a nut welded to it for the bottom I/C support. Welded directly to the frame.


I bolted the top of the I/C to the rad support...sorry no pic.

couple more pics....









A big Thanks to my friend Wes, who allowed me the use of his shop and tools.
Also, a thank you must go out to my org. friends who also helped with their knowledge when I ran into a problem.
 
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#2 ·
Hows she running and how much cooler are egts?
 
#4 ·
Nice write up. Congrats.
 
#5 ·
hey chuck couple things how muxh money was invested in everything and do you have more pics of the inercooler pipes in the engine bay
 
#6 ·
I dont recall exact prices. I've had the I/C for about a year now. The pipe kit was around $600 with overnight shipping. Even though is a banks kit, I ordered thru Boyer Custom Trucks ( real nice people, and easy to deal with ). The two I/C boots from Ford were $55.10 each. i'll get some more pics of the engine bay Tuesday.:thumb:
 
#12 ·
nice man. this is what i plan to do too. I ordered the pipe kit from banks. DO u have the ford part number for those boots?
 
#13 ·
I see you mounted it a bit higher and a further forward than I typically mount them. I'd be interested to see where you had to cut the pipes shorter? Was it because the couplers you had were longer or because the pipes hit the cooler fittings? Had you had shorter cooler fittings would they have fit without being cut?
 
#15 ·
No, shorter boots wouldnt have made any difference, the pipes were hitting the I/C. If the I/C "fittings" were 1-1.5 shorter it would have been fit better. The pipes were cut and inch back from the end. It didnt leave alot of flat surface for the clamp to tighten onto the passenger side pipe. If both the I/C "fittings" and the pipes were shortened an inch, the fit would even be better, due to the lenth of the Ford boots.

The top mounting points on the I/C is pushed back aganist the rad. support. I dont know how you would set it any further back.
 
#17 ·
Are the pictures showing the clamps on the IC fittings with the cooler pulled out or is that where it sits? I usually have it close enough so that you put the clamps on from behind the core support. That's why I said it looked like you had it mounted further forward. I usually have the top attached with some flat bar brackets so it's nearly up tight to the top of the support and the lower brackets I make usually sit only about 1/2" off the frame rail where your box tubing and the nut you have welded to the top of the box tubing looks like you're about 3/4"+ higher than I usually do it. I wonder if it sat lower if the 1" wouldn't need to be taken off and maybe that's why some have to cut and some don't. Not so sure how well the rubber on the IC is going to fair with the small amount of contact that the nuts you have them sitting on provide. It might be likely to wear through the rubber over time.

Are the Ford couplers you used the longer ones with the 2 or 3 steel rings in the middle? With the length of those I don't see how they would even work with the pipes nearly touching the fittings on the cooler. They'd need to be a good 2-3" away from each other. The upper couplers are made to work with pipes that are right next to each other and may have worked better if the pipes are so close together. You didn't get any pics from behind the core support looking straight down on the pipes comming through it did you?
 
#20 ·
Ah 10 4. BTW try hooking your boost line in on the fitting on the discharge pipe. It will usually see a little more boost there first and help with response.
 
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