My first post so bare me please. I have an 07 that started out taking a while to start after bein parked for a few hours. I have IDS so I read ICP while cranking and would build pressure slow until it would start. This went on for a few weeks but I never trusted it to take a long trip I'd just beat around town with it and it never acted up while driving. I bought an Alliant HPOP icp and ipr. I used it one day to pull a small tractor 60 miles from home and when I got off the interstate it died when it went down to an idle. So I checked icp and it was around 16psi...far from 500. I changed the pump and ipr and now all I get is 87psi and that's it and it does take about 20-30 seconds of cranking for it to get to 87. I did check the ipr screen and was clean I've been trying this for 2 weeks and about to jump out my box! It has all the upgrades with standpipes and dummy plugs stc fitting studs deleted. Oil bowl fills quick and drain back valve holds but the lpop gauge does take a few seconds to come up but once it's up it jumps right up after another attempt to start. I don't mean to write a book but would a high pressure leak drain back and won't hold? bc icp drops to 0 right after I stop cranking it. I'd appreciate any help bc dynamite is beginning to look like my remedy lol
How did you know (or think) it was a HPOP failure? If that was all that you changed out (plus ICP and IPR) it seems that wasn't your problem. Did your new pump come with the new STC? The HPOP is a fairly simple and straight-forward repair; are you sure you work was complete, including replacing both O-rings? Since you changed out your IPR, that should be OK, but a simple check would be to retry with a known good one or even your old one.
Regardless of previous upgrades, you need to perform a leak check of your HPOP system. Your IDS should come in handy for closing the IPR and monitoring your progress.
I'm beginning to think the pump wasn't the problem too. I'm pretty confident in my work with the two o rings on the pump and yes the pump did come with an upgraded stc. I did try the old ipr and same result. I'm just puzzled on how a high pressure leak can cause what's happening. My next move was to go under the valve covers and leak test as you suggested. Anything on the low side would cause something of this nature? Like the lpop not supplying enough volume or pressure? Guess I could check low pressure with a mechanical gauge
So a high pressure leak could cause the sump to drain back? The oil pressure gauge does take 10-15 seconds of cranking for it to come up and once it's up the icp finally starts building slowly until hitting a wall at 87 psi after 30 seconds of cranking. No icp until dash gauge comes up. The long cold start was the preexisting symptom until it killed on the road. The gauge wouldn't come up right away and wouldn't start until it came up. I'm with you that the HPOP wasn't my problem but I just can't wrap my thoughts around a high pressure leak. When I get home tonight I will try an air test and see where that takes me. I appreciate the help
No. If you had no oil in the sump, let's say from a bad LPOP, then you would get no HPO pressure. The same result if you had a clogged screen in the sump. That doesn't happen unless you had done something really strange. You don't, by any chance, have a piece of plastic or debris in the oil outlet? That would give you oil to the filter, but not much past it.
Your slow rise in LPO pressure may be part of the problem, but it is frequent to have no gauge indication until after it starts.
You should get 500psi or greater in less than 6 seconds. There is no requirement to keep cranking after 10 seconds to get a start. All you are doing is cooking the starter.
I have changed the oil filter standpipe and I didn't drop anything or see anything other than the check at the top of the tube broken. The broken piece was still in place. I did this yesterday. I'm leaning more toward a HPO leak or plugged screen as you suggested. I also have a feeling I'm trying to diagnose two separate failures as one. Is there something in the filter housing that would drain oil back to the base other than flowing to the cooler/sump?
The only thing that will screw this up is a short filter or a tall cap (Wix). There was one member that was having some oil issues and he actually had the correct filter with the non-Ford cap. However, it eventually would build enough pressure to start. There is no drain-back from the HPOP sump. As I said previously, you would have had to contaminated your oil or use some thickening agent to plug the screen in the HPO sump. The air test should find the problem area.
100%. FL-2016 since I've owned the truck. I did change the cap when I bought the truck bc the previous owner used napa filters and this was 3 years ago no problems till now. I'm in the process of getting under the valve covers to perform a HPO leak test
I would have done the check before removing the valve covers. However, if you suspect the problem is under one of them, you would need to pull at least one regardless.
I did try before I started the tear down and the oil level in the rail hadn't changed but I'm going under the covers regardless. Also under the pump cover and probably under the oil filter housing to check the suction screen. Another thing I thought of after you suggesting my oil being contaminated is the oil that came in the Alliant pump. Didn't think it would hurt so I didn't let all of it drained before installing. Now my royal purple has a different color to it. You think that might be caused by air in the oil or the oil from the new pump?
The HPOP oil would not have caused a problem. I am somewhat surprised that such a small amount of oil would have influenced your Royal Purple oil color.
You and me both but did catch my attention nonetheless. My progress was stopped I'm being called back to work. Hope I can get to that leak test tomorrow...I've handled quite a few hydraulic injection failures and not a stranger to the lovely 6.0 but leave it up to the one I own to make me feel like an a$$. Lol
Finally had time to test the HPO system and found an already upgraded standpipe o-ring completely gone. I can now see how this would cause the symptoms the engine had. Never would I think this would happen after only 20k miles since the upgrade. I do appreciate your guidance and opinions toward my problem.
you upgraded your stand pipes and plugs 20k ago with the retofit kit, yes? and the O-ring on the check valve that goes into the tube blew? that is a first, i have read countless forums and web articals about the stand pipes and plugs, never a mention about that O-ring or the O-ring and the end of the tube that goes into the HPOP failing. i just did mine, i had one O-ring failure, driver side stand pipe plug, lower O-ring, i replaced both plug and pipes with the up gradeed, all the other O-rings where perfect ...all still had the little ridge on the outter edge of every O-ring.
whats next? stand pipe tube cracking?
I've had a plug o-ring go with the "hot no start" before but never would I suspect the check o-ring inside the tube go especially after 20k on it. I'll put a pic up when I get back home. Now I have FICM problems after a few days of running trouble free. I can never catch a break
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