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lift blocks and axle wrap

8K views 22 replies 7 participants last post by  Ramsmoker 
#1 ·
I just bought a 01 crew F250 and it has lowered spring mounts in the front and 3 inch lift blocks in the back...I hate lift blocks. Even slow take offs I get a grrrrrr and a vibe from the rear end bouncing around, I'm sure the sound is the u joint suffering and I really want to lose the blocks but keep the lift. And with the ts chip, mbrp 4" exhaust and intake I've just bought the problems only going to get worse. Does anyone know if any vendors sell 3 inch lift springs that retain the stock load capacity? Most of the "traction aids" I've seen look kind of hokey, does anyone have a setup you like? I also dont want to do anything to make the ride stiffer.Also, what shocks do you guys like. Thanks guys.
 
#2 ·
ill let the other guys chime in on the lift stuff, but just so you know that vibration and slight groan you get on takoff isnt from the blocks.....its from the lift itself changing the driveline angle. What you need to do (assuming you have a two piece driveshaft) is shimm the carrier bearing down a quarter inch at a time untill it goes away....ANY lift, spring or block, will create this vibration
 
#3 · (Edited)
Bilstein shocks and velvet ride springs = better then stock ride while maintaining stock load ratings.

Lift blocks = suck
Stacked lift blocks = Dangerous

Which do you have?
The lift, not the block, is what is causing your driveline vibrations. You'll need to shim your driveshaft. Do you have a 1 or 2 peice driveshaft?

Edit: Once again, Marc is TOO fast for me at work!
 
#7 ·
Axle wrap from lift blocks especially taller than 4" will destroy a set of springs. Been there done that. The spring gets weaker and weaker and the wrap-up gets worse and worse. It doesn't cost that much to buy a good set of springs with the proper height built into them. Anybody stacking blocks is simply sitting on a time bomb waiting to go off. I have seen far too many heavy duty trucks spit out their lift blocks especially in high hp setups.

Driveline angles are also critical and need to be addressed.
 
#9 ·
You sure stuck that "yet" in there didn't you! Keep your fingers crossed.:bluewink:
 
#10 ·
i aint scared. bds didn't offer a 4inch lift spring for the rear. i guess i could get 6 inch springs and take all the blocks out.
 
#20 ·
I would NEVER use ONE block up front... and have stacked blocks in the past on my lil Mazda... but I was young(er) and dumb(er) back then... haha. :D

This was 2 years ago, when I was 18. HAHA.
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the info guys,I have not been able to find the springs, can somone give me a link, I found the BDS web site but they dont list 3" lift spring, there 3 inch lift system says it used blocks for the rear. , all the negatives you mentioned are exactly why I hate lift blocks...too much abuse to the center section of the spring. I suspect that the blocks have been in place for a while and they have already weakened the spring to the point that they should be replaced. I've always felt that blocks are bad news. Thanks guys
 
#23 ·
Lift

Lift blocks aren't as bad as you think. The material there made of is the biggest problem. I welded my blocks together and capped both ends with T-1 plate. This stops the rolling and crumbling of the casting. Next is traction bars, take a look in my garage. Easy to build at home. Next is the sway bar and spring eyes. Change all, front and rear to Energy urethane. Mine has 6" blocks in the rear and 5" hangers in front with extra leaf's. Rides and handles great. With the right pitman arm you will eliminate the wander common with lift and big tires.
 
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