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Newbie :) No overdrive PSD tranny

22K views 25 replies 13 participants last post by  ipz2222 
#1 ·
Hi guys this is my first post here hope someone can take me throughout the right direction. My rig is a 2001 250 7.3 PSD with 75K miles I was driving along the motorway when suddenly my overdrive came off, this happen after a toll stop, the thing is that the trans. isn’t shifting the overdrive also a few minutes after the overdrive light began to flash. After that I stopped immediately and checked if there were any leaks on the trans. but none, after the stop when I shifted from drive to park I noticed the RPM’s went up for about 1sec probably 200 RPM’s from normal (this happened once). I also checked the trans fluid level and it was ok. I then turn off the engine to see if it will reset somehow the overdrive flash and it did but the trasn. still wasn’t shifting to overdrive. What kind of trouble shooting do you guy’s recommend to start with? Any fuses, solenoids, relays, sensors ? Any help I will greatly appreciate.

P.S. The truck is stock except for 4” exhaust.


Josue
 
#2 ·
Have you pulled any codes?

I am by no means an expert but everyone has told me when you O/D light blinks, the tranny is done... hope this isn't the case for you.
 
#4 ·
I think another option would be the O/D switch on your column. It unscrews and there are a few wires inside that connect to the button. This may need to be replaced. I had a similar problem, where my O/D light started blinking however my O/D was working. I had gotten water on my GEM module. Does your tranny fluid smell burnt or is it NOT Pink or a rich red color? If it is, you may have more problems.

You have a 2001 which has the "mechanical diode" which is basically a one way clutch that usually slips between several gears not just O/D so I don't think that is your problem.

I'm sure Marc will be on later, and hopefully he can shed more light on the situation. If all of your other gears are working fine I don't think your whole trannies shot, but hey I'm not the ford mechanic... Marc is :D
 
#5 ·
No burn smell on the tranny fluid and is still rich red :) , the tranny shifts ok the other gears except for the last gear or O/D. By the way what is the GEM module stands for and were is located ? I checked the overdrive switch and looks good for me. Also that’s interesting what you told me there about “mechanical diode” , since new she always used to slip the fourth gear or O/D but just very slightly.
 
#9 ·
Hi guys, I got her scan today and got the followings codes: P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off , P0745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction. The guy that scan her who is a tranny repair tech. he told me that I need to replace the solenoid bank, he also told me that my tranny (4R100) ford did a revision, he showed me a tech. manual of the tranny and told me about the modifications that has to be done if the tranny has to be overhauled. What do you guys think ?
 
#10 ·
Doing some research I found this in the dieselmann's page.

2001-2002 Trucks with 4R100 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Codes:
Some trucks build between 1-1-01 to 5-1-02 may exhibit a flashing OD light and possibly harsh shifting, with any or all of the following trouble codes: P0740, P0741, P0743, P1744. This may be due to high resistance in the torque converter clutch solenoid, which results in lower torque converter lock pressures. The transmission solenoid body should be replace with P/N F81Z-7G391-CB to correct. Broadcast Message 3559

Probably I should give it a shot to replace the solenoid body, it doesn’t look so hard to change. Have you guys change this before ?
 
#11 ·
Good news, got her fixed today, basically my solenoid block was messed up. It's very easy to change, hopefully I got lucky that I didn’t blow the oil seals form the converter since that part regulates the tranny fluid pressure to the converter. Hope this thread helps anyone having the same problem. Ford P/N F81Z-7G391-CB It cost me $175 (in Puerto Rico).

Cheers :punk:
 
#12 ·
my 01 had the tork out of it at 85,000 truck was still all stock whin tork went out it burnt my forwerd cluches up and tosted a trans that would of been my guss on yours sound like you got lucky. grate time to put a shift kit in and save up for a triple disk tork if you ar going to put some serious HP to it. put some gauges in to you can see the temps ther a killer
 
#13 ·
I've had a similar thing happen several times and when I took it to Ford (under warranty at the time) they said it was the rear wheel speed sensor. I only had this problem after I had them (Ford) recalibrate the speedo for 35" tires. I finally got fed up with this happening and had them recalibrate for stock tires and no more problems.
 
#15 ·
I've seen more solenoid problems from 98 up than before. Since you have 2 solenoid codes and both solenoids are on the solenoid block, I would change that first. Changeing it can be a little frustrating. Getting your hand over the crossmember to grab the connector, then releasing the lock on the connector and pulling up at the same time, ouch. Lay a rag over the top of your hand, there's sharp edges under there. remove the pan. The block has torx head screws and 1 10 mm nut.. come across the crossmember with a hammer and lightly tap down on the top of the connector while takeing your other hand and pulling down on the block. It will be messy.
Here is where your 1 problem is. There is a gasket under the block and if it tears while pulling the block down, you're in trouble. You might be better off paying someone to do this.
 
#17 ·
The light will start flashing and you will lose overdrive if the wires from the OD switch on the shift handle are broken at the column as well. Found that out the hard way hahaha.

Gord.
 
#18 ·
Well it could be wires but if you have codes like I did on mine I’m pretty sure your solenoid block has gone bad, first thing to do is check for codes if there is no codes you should check wiring. I’m not an auto mechanic (thought I’m aircraft mechanic) but I did it myself and it's not so hard to replace.
 
#20 ·
ford diesel tech, fyi, the coast clutch piston has nothing to do with 4th (o/drive). It comes on when you press the od cancel button and let off the throttle to coast or decelerat. It goes off when trans shifts to 4th.
It does however rip the lip off as you said but then you have no coast hold back.
 
#21 ·
do the solenoid pack first 95% of the time that is the problem at least in my dealer and when that dont fix it the tranny guys get to find the problem there is two of us and we have a few of these piston problems along with other concerns ,in o/d the fluid lows thru the coast clutch buy does not over come the return spring pressure if the piston is ripped you will lose 4th gear check the fluid flow charts
 
#22 ·
I'm bringing this one back from the Dead... Sorry..

I'm getting some problems that have me worried.. Seams very close to this topic.

First I've had the O/D switch go out, didn't have O/D and the light was flashing..

But right now, After a hard day in the mountain a couple weeks ago, Long story short.. I shifted into 1st gear on the down hill grades to save my brakes some.. Pretty much went up and down a Steep grade several times that night.

Now no O/D.. But I'm not getting any flashing and everything still feels decent..

If I let the truck sit all night, It runs perfect in the morning and most of the day.. Then If I manual SHift into 2nd, or 1st then back to drive... I lose O/D.. Also once in a While I've had it Hang in a Lower Gear and not shift up until I lift the throttle.. ie.. first gear will hold high RPM's until I Back off the throttle then it shifts??

I'm hard on Rig's.. Very hard, I've had this Tranny up to 250 couple times Pulling a Toy hauler camper up in the moutains, but Pulled over to let it cool down at 250.. I've smelt Burnt Tranny Fluid before.. Not Saying I don't deserve to have my tranny go out.. But I don't think that's what's happening..

But it's still strong, Just this weekend It pulled a loaded trailer with 3 tons of Rocks...


Does this sound like a Soloniod would be a Good thing to fix? I can't afford 175 bucks if I need to rebuild a tranny..
 
#26 ·
If the light does not cycle on and off when you press the button, the switch may be bad. It's easy to change. There's a small ring that holds the switch in, just take your knife blade and insert it into the groove around the switch and slowly work the ring off. The switch then just pulls out. Go get the switch from the dealer first to see how it's made. If that does't fix it, you have a broken wire in the shifter. A little more difficult to fix but still possible. Any general repair shop or trans shop can handle that for you.
 
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