hey guys.. i promise i searched & read a LOT, but never found quite what i was looking for.
so like the title says, my 01 7.3 won't start. it's not cold here though, like 72 today.. so i checked & it has fuel @ the filter, changed it while i was there. do i just need to go ransack the underhood fuse box now? switch relays around & what not? the batteries aren't holding up to the repeated cranking (not a whole lot really, like 10-15 tries). is that maybe a sign that they (or one) need to be replaced?
any tips of stuff i can check with hand tools & a multimeter would be great. thanks in advance.
i'm at my mom's right now, going to go home & put the jump box on em for a while here shortly..
Check your volatge of your batteries. You need at least 10.5 volts if I remember correctly to start the truck. The 10.5 volts is needed to have the pcm work. It will crank with less voltage but not start. If you have 10.5 volts or less try jumping it or charge the batteries.
Check your oil level in the hpop make sure it is full.
Are you getting fuel to the engine, when you turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump prime the system.
Is your wait to start light working.
Do you have a chip with valet setting, if so make sure it is not in valet setting.
If possible scan for codes, see if you have any codes saved in the pcm.
You can check the gpr's but I doubt that is the problem. 72 degrees the truck should start with out the glowplugs.
thx like i mentioned headed my buddy's shop to borrow a multimeter. man i hope it's the batteries because that's easy but **** they aren't cheap! and do i have to replace both? i think i read that somewhere.
CPS is certainly an option. However I'd use the multimeter to check the batteries. Bigcountry is right - these trucks will crank but they just WON'T start without at least 10 v. Best thing to do is check the voltage while the truck is off and while cranking.
Take off the battery terminals, clean them REALLY well, and the posts. Charge which ever side you're not working on. When you're done check with the multimeter again. Once you start reading 11+ volts I'd start cranking on it again.
Never crank for more then 20 seconds, and wait about a minute between extended cranks. You don't want to add a starter to your list of fixin!
CPS is certainly an option. However I'd use the multimeter to check the batteries. Bigcountry is right - these trucks will crank but they just WON'T start without at least 10 v. Best thing to do is check the voltage while the truck is off and while cranking.
Take off the battery terminals, clean them REALLY well, and the posts. Charge which ever side you're not working on. When you're done check with the multimeter again. Once you start reading 11+ volts I'd start cranking on it again.
Never crank for more then 20 seconds, and wait about a minute between extended cranks. You don't want to add a starter to your list of fixin!
thx for that. i knew it would put a strain on it but you confirmed what i was thinking.
so i put the meter on them & the drivers side battery's putting out ~8 1/2 volts (jumps from .1 to .8). can i just replace this one? i'd like to get optimas but i haven't worked in like 3 months & my guarantee check ain't gonna get it right now.
okay so i went to wally world & got the same battery that was on the pass. side & she rolled right over & started. that's a relief but now i know i need a multimeter. i'd still like to know if it'd be best to replace both.. also what scanner do i need to pull the codes? thx again fellas.
i know everybody keeps seeing this & passing it up cause it was my stupid battery.. and i feel like a fool for not figuring that out on my own, trust me.
my last question for now is which battery should you jump? i was trying the pass. side since it was easier to get at the posts. i guess it didn't work because that wasn't the one that was dead, or what?
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