I want to build some LED tail lights using the stock lens and putting the lens tint on it and gutting the inside and run a bread board full of LEDs maybe in a pattern or something. I know you can only put x number of LEDs in a chain and then use a resistor to bring the load up to around 13.2 but after that I am completely lost. Anyone tried this or can give me some advice or help on this? I think it would look pretty cool! Oh, one thing I dont understand is how to make them two stage so I can have brake lights and running lights?
IF YOU WANT TO KNOW I AM DESIGN MY OWN LED BRAKE LIGHTS AND I WILL DO IT AND GOT IT ALL FIGURED JUST CALL ME AND I CAN DISCUSS IT WITH YOU PM ME FOR NUMBER
Oh yeah, for sure. I just want to make sure that I get all the wiring right so the brake lights and the marker lights work. Thats what Im not sure how to do
This will depend heavily on the type of LED's you are going to use. The forward voltage drop and the desired current draw will determine how many in each string.
If you PM me with more info I will be able to help. I am an Electrical Engineer. There are a lot of options for driving these. I noticed that someone else also offered to help.
The technique for parking/brake lights is typically to pull in some additional strings when the brake line is activiated.
Some truck LED lights use an additional resistor in series with the "tail" input lead (to serve as another voltage drop), and using doides to isolate the inputs from each other ( ie: so other park lights don't come on when brake lights are activated)
Some 4" sealed (?) LED Tail lights do not have the circuit board epoxied into the assembly, so you can cut off the lens, and pull the board for research and use the LEDS. on my '96 I made a 48 LED high mount brake light by canibalizing a 4" tail light and some proto board (I probably should have taken pics)
im just going to use several strings of leds one string for the park and find a middle mcd for them and for the brake get some with a higher mcd and find resistors to make the brightness on each perfect
:thumb: That'll work, keeps things simple too. When calculating resistor sizes, assume a nominal voltage of 14V. I did some experiments years ago assuming 12V, and had some bright LEDs with a very short lifespan. :doh:
yea im going to be safe because sometimes a alternator can spike and such so i going to go with 14.6 volts on my calculator just to be on safe side
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