I'm gonna do what I hate to see people do. . .beg for help with a very low post count.
1995 7.3. 200,000 miles. New (10,000 miles ago) valve cover harness and #8 injector.
Truck was warm, ran home to grab a tool out of the shop, came back out and it idled *horribly*. Killed the truck. . .and it hasn't started since.
Replaced fuel filter and CPS. Drained fuel bowl and the fuel pump seems to be working. . .fuel goes back into the bowl.
Switched tanks, thinking bad fuel, and still no start.
WTS light comes on and tach moves on cranking.
White smoke while cranking.
I did drive through several large puddles on the way home (hey, it's been so long since we had rain here in Oklahoma I couldn't resist playing in it some!)
That give enough clues for somebody to make a SWAG?
I had somebody suggest the GPR, but the fact that the truck wouldn't start when it was a operating temperature makes me think it isn't the GPR. . .
1) Unknown. . .but fuel *gushes* out of the drain when cranked
2) Never. . .I'll try that this evening
3) It cranks fine. . .slower now that I've been fighting it for 3 days, but still fast enough (in my opinion) to start. I figured I could have the lovely Mrs. Jack pull it with the tractor to rule out a low battery/crank speed.
Unless the tractor can pull it fast the PCM needs to see a minimum of 300 RPM before allowing the IDM to fire the injectors. On the side of the fuel bowl is a Schrader valve that if you pull out the stem you can add a real fuel pressure gauge. On the cheap you can waste a tire gauge without removing the stem to see what the cranking pressure is. These stock fuel pumps are two stage. The first is a high volume low pressure stage that pulls from the tank and fills the bowl. Then the fuel is pulled back from the bowl and the pressure is stepped upped to about 55-60 PSI right before it is sent to the heads.
I'll check the valley again this evening. . .there *is* fuel around the upper valve cover bolts, but that is (I think. . .I didn't notice it before) from where I had the old fuel filter resting while installing the new one.
Kinda depends on quality of the delivery of said fuel. White smoke more or less means the fuel is too condensed (thick if you will) or the cylinder too cold for proper self ignition of the fuel. With poor fuel pressure at cranking speeds the injected fuel may not be atomizing very well and big fuel droplets are harder to burn cold. Or the injector is not delivering enough fuel for self ignition.
No a bad one wont always make it stop altogether. Ive had a bad one and friends have had them. Typically it just runs like crap. Depends which parts are all shorted or corroded. Try and swap it with a buddy that has same one.
Okay. . .I've got parts (gauges, fittings, etc) ordered to check oil/fuel pressure. Thank you Amazon Prime!
I'll check that stuff and give an update next week. I'll clean the fuel screen this weekend while I'm resting. . .even if that isn't the problem I'm sure it needs cleaned.
Thank you, gentlemen.
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