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To NOS or Not To NOS that is my ???

2K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  LTJDS 
#1 ·
Just finished my most recent Dyno Run and pulled off,
390 RWHP with an outside Ambient Air Temp of 92*F.
NXT STEP ???? NOS ????
My motor makes peak HP in Chip Setting (position 4) 75hp. I still have 100hp, and 140hp, but they are not capable of yeilding higher #'s
I think a small conservative 50 or 75 Shot of NOS might eliminate the overfueling I can see on the Dyno @ high RPM and Speed Levels.
Possibly running a Shot "O" NOS in the 100hp and 140hp setting will even out my fuel curve and yeild a smoother power band on the Dyno.

Anybody have (+) Positive exp with low HP dry shots of NOS.
Reliability ?????
Is water/meth safer?????

I GET TO MANY PEOPLE THAT SAY ONE THING OR THE OTHER WITHOUT REALLY DISCUSSING REAL WORLD BENEFITS OR RELIABILITY CONCERNS.
:ar15: THANKS FOR REPLIES IN ADVANCE.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Adam

I'm goin with the NOS ,
I'll let ya know how it wrks out..........:chicken: I am NOT ! ! ! Spray Away
 
#9 ·
I'm goin with the NOS ,
I'll let ya know how it wrks out..........:chicken: I am NOT ! ! ! Spray Away
Dude - I like the way you think. LOL!!!

I'm with Adam, that's why I'm going with water/meth but I'd really listen to what TJ and Tim have to say, they know their stuff. I'm pretty bold when it comes to mods but there is a limit......I'd like to skip finding out what it is. :D
 
#4 ·
You might wanna be a little careful. I see you have an '02 which means you have a very good chance of have PMR's instead of forged rods. PMR's can handle 400 hp safely. They might handle more than that but like you said youre not a :chicken:.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Connecting Rods, right? excuse my ignorance, What is (PMR) ? ? Powdered Metal R_______? rods?
I am maybe a little:chicken: some of you guys are starting to Scare ME :eek:
I am not going larger than a 50 or 75 HP DRY SHOT MAX.
Heck, I think they even make a 30HP jet.
Just want to light the tires from a dead start without having to raise the RPM to 2K and take my foot off the brake. (TURBO LAG ? )
I am hoping to just solve my over fueling conditions as opposed to obtaining any magical HP figures.
Maybe a 30 or 50 HP jet is all I need to even things out.
Any comments or suggestions on maintaining reliability are
REALLY APPRECIATED.

PS: The use of this NOS set up will be on Weekend Cruising Nights and for Dyno runs. It is my HOPE :hail: and prayers that periodic use with such a limited HP level 30,50,MAX depending on Dyno results.
I ran 390 RWHP with a 92*F Ambient Air Temp. I think that a 30 or 50 HP jet will not raise the HP levels to much maybe 420-445 HP ????

Minimal Weekend Use with just enough JET to clean up my Dyno CURVE. Always keeping in mind to use the smallest JET needed to obtain the desired results.

AGAIN ANYTHING ANYBODY CAN RECCOMEND THAT WILL HELP STRENGTH AND RELIABILITY IS :D GREATLY GREATLY APPRECIATED.

Thanks for your replies in advance:D :D :D 90% of my drive time will and should Dyno at under 400 With Out NOS,
Expecting to only test the limits of my OEM PMR Connecting Rods.
If anybody knows a good shop in the Lower Half of Florida, That could give me a price on changing my stock 02' rods, Please let me know.
 
#7 ·
Yes we are talking about the connecting rods. They can handle 400 horses safely. You might be safe just runnin the NOS on the weekends or dynoing it. I've read that they can handle 450 but Im not sure on that. As far as a shop to put forged rods in I'm sure GAW can do it. If you do have forged rods put it you might want to have head studs done at the same time
 
#8 ·
Keeping in mind that I'm not speeking from experience, as I'm about 60 hp behind you. But have read about alot of guys windowing blocks with PMRs Powder metal rods (connecting) on other sites. 400 rwhp seems to be the consensis of the max hp you want to throw at those rods. If you have forged don't think so though because of your year, then 500rwhp seems to be what your upper limit is.. You can find this out right from the horses mouth by giving DI a call and talking with David, I see your running some of his stuff good guy who won't mislead to make a sale. At any rate sounds like you got a strong running truck and good luck with what ever you decide to do.. Later Tim
 
#10 ·
If you are going to spray you need a burn on your chip in the position you will spray with a reduced timing.The cylinder pressure spike is pretty abrupt with the nos.:chicken:
It is a fast way to drain the oil though & rust proof your underside of the truck at the same time!:eek:
I busted one with forged rods with only 450 & no spray!:Shocked:
 
#11 ·
You might wanna think about getting big oil too that might help out with the top end h.p.. Big oil might clear up the smoke so you can run the higher hp settings on your chip. You can try the stealth from Beans (see your sticks came from them), there's the terminator, and I think there's another one but cant remeber right now.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for all the input and feedback GUYS....

I will see about getting a custom TUNE to run when on the JUICE.
I will check with GAW (about installing Rods) but I thought he did not want to go that DEEP, Seems he is much more interested in Bolt on Equip. Maybe I can change his mind or at least get a refferal from him.

Like I said earlier Weekends and Dyno runs ONLY, and at this point that 30hp shot is looking safe, but a 50HP jet with tuning is what I am aiming for.

Thanks EVERYONE for your words of WISDOM and Experience.
It seems that it is a matter of WHEN and not IF the NOS will be to much. :eek:
So new forged rods are on my List of upcomming MODS, (not much left to change anyway) :bluewink:

Now I just have to keep her together until I get the Time and the Parts.
Until then I am gonna be as conservative as my Right Foot Allows.

THANK YOU ALL ,, STAY SAFE AND ENJOY YOUR RIDES :D :D :D

PS: if anything Blows Before I get to changing my rods I'll be posting my tragedy so others may learn from my errors.
I don't want to think about that for now.

I don't need a rust proof undercoating, heck I don't even have snow/salt problems in Sunny Fla. Just Kidding LOL
 
#14 ·
What is BIG OIL ???? Thanks
 
#15 ·
Uh oh.....lets not have this thread end up like the LAST big oil discussion we had. :lol:

I'll let the smart guys explain it to ya. :)
 
#16 ·
The high pressure oil pump drives the injectors. Most stock pumps are sufficient, unless your getting into heavy modding. You will notice on your truck that it probably runs like a raped ape untill you hit wide open throttle, then it boggs down. You might also notice that your truck feels like it has more power at 3/4 throttle than it does at wide open throttle. Running the mods you have the stock HPOP is being taxed beyond its ability. Putting an aftermarket pump, weather it be a single or twin pump system, is probably your best option and probably should be your next mod IMO. Big oil isnt for just everyone, but with your mods you would benifit from it....
 
#17 ·
There are a couple of threads with pretty extensive discussions of big oil, just use the search function of the forums.
 
#18 ·
Dieselsite is also working on one single big oil pump (the Pulse)that just bolts into place but no word as to when it will be released its in its final testing last I heard. Big Oil is a touchy subject here some think its good others think its just hype or over kill. I personally feel in order to take advantage of your higher chip settings (120-140) thats the way to make it happen as for me I'm going to hang tight until I see how this single pump from Dieselsite proves to be but I think all the bugs are worked out of the twin HPOPs. Atleast I don't here much on them breaking down anymore. I do know that every person that does have big oil is amazed by it... Its an expensive mod for sure... but I don't need to tell you how expensive modding these things really are, LOL your in neck deep now buddy:sorry: :sorry: Later Tim
 
#20 ·
Would "BIG OIL" raise my HP fig even Higher ????
390RWHP is alot more at the Crank. Are these PMR's rated to crank 400 or RW 400 ?
Earlier I was told about the HPOP and poss upgrading, Don't think it's a bad idea (open to all suggestions). BUT:bluewink: I don't seem to have the problems MARC was talking about. Specifically the 3/4 stronger than full throttle, If I do it is not that noticeable as of yet.

I am gonna see what happens with the Dry Shot.
I think the fuel /HP curve I am seeing on the Dyno is effected by Overfueling and the OEM computer goes through a decycling mode because their is not enough air to go with all that Fuel.
Hence the idea that the O2 in NOS will fix that air problem. If the Upgraded HPOP is going to raise HP even higher, it will probably be a Mod I do AFTER upgrading my PMR's.

AGAIN 2 ALL who have replied Thank you, THANK YOU, THANK YOU.

I'll start a new thread after I have the NOS Installed.
If someone could let me know if the HPOP upgrade will raise HP, what is the expected average raise seen, if applicable.

Thanks Guys,,,
 
#21 ·
he HPOP wont raise your horsepower per say by its self. It just allows for proper fuel atomization IF its not getting that already. Basically, it maximizes your injectors and your chip. It doesnt give you more horsepower, it unlocks what may still be sitting there with the mods you already have....
 
#22 ·
Thank YOU MARC. messg rec'd
Is it 400 Rear Wheel or 400 at the Crank ? If anyone knows It's You.
 
#23 ·
Yes it will increase your hp figure. As far as it not increasing hp by itself the jury is still out on the subject. Some guys are doing testing on an otherwise stock truck to see if it does add some more ponies. The safe level for PMR is around 400 rw. Some guys say 425-450 but no one I know of has broken a rod at 400, at least on straight motor. The drugs (N20, 'pane and meth)do take their toll on these rods. If it were my truck (I know its not) and my wallet the first thing I would do is the rods, head studs, pushrods, and a bigger turbo or compound turbo setup (I know you just bought a new turbo). Drugs are great for instant power increases but the cylinder pressure spikes it causes aren't the best thing for an engine. But anyway your original question as to NOS or not to NOS, my 2 cents is not to.
 
#24 ·
Yes I Agree

I have talked with my main mechanic, and after all the posting I am gonna play it safe and do the Rods First. It will be a couple of months, but safe is MUCH better than SORRY. Man I am sorry we dragged this horse through the MUD so much, BUT I guess this is how we learn.
The truck is already WICKED FAST ENOUGH.
Gonna wait and enjoy what I have, and do the right strength things b-4 goin any further or I could be out of a truck or at least a motor for awhile.I am gonna check with David at Diesel Innovations (Snow White) 2 see what rods he reccomends.
THANKS AGAIN FOR EVERYBODY'S TIME AND INPUT
I'll post changes as revalent THANKS GUYS
I want to be able to enjoy my ride so caution is waranted. BE SAFE:D
 
#25 ·
If you going to go thru the rod deal spend the extra $$ & buy the Crower billet from DI & you need head & main studs also,pushrods & a rev kit for the valve springs,dual HPOP's,530 BD injectors.Now she is ready to do whatever you want without trashing it!Or you can just buy my motor ready to run for a deal!:D
You did say you wanted to step it up!:chicken:
With this combo you can spray it like a roach,2 stages~large ones!:eek:
 
#26 ·
Thanks ,,

I will check (I believe you mean Diesel Innovations, David Lott) for the propper rods and head studs, and The HPOP upgrade is on the list.
Gonna Start Saving BIG COINS:twocents:
I am going to put in the SSBC 8 Piston Front Calipers on NEXT, and maybe add 2 more 12" subs to my stereo while I wait for Part$ Money. I expect the strength mods to cost 3-4K :eek: !!!!
Thanks for the motor offer, I'm gonna opt for keepin my BABY 4 Now.
I do appreciate the great info/feedback. Enjoy your Ride:D ,ltjds
 
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