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HPOP Oil Discharge Tube - Early 2004

23K views 16 replies 9 participants last post by  6.0 Diesel Power 
#1 ·
Hi Everyone - new member to this community, but have found great info here so thank you to you all!

Dealer diagnosed a bad HPOP on my early 04 6.0. I was only getting 350psi...so not enough to fire the injectors. Thing just stalled while driving. Dealer had control of the IPR with thier diagnostic system, and air leakdown did not five any obviouse results. They recomend new pump and ipr. With that I decided not to drop over 2k at the dealer.

I towed it home to fix myslef & have the HPOP out. Not Fun...didn't know I could bend in all those positions. Anyway, noticed that the IPR oring was pinched when the previous owner had it installed years ago, so not sure if that could account for a drop in pressure after all this time? I also found some small metal debri on the screen...but not enough to block it....I don't think?

So this leads me to my first two questions....
1) Is it likely that the pinched oring is the cause of my pressure drop....maybe not needing a HPOP?
2) Where would this small metal debri come from? The ball is still in the pump, and nothing looks obviouse to me.

As I was removing the pump, I removed the two bolts holding the discharge tube on the top of the pump and it simply swivels to the left to allow for clarence to remove the pump.

That leaves me to my last two questions...
3) Should it be this loose, or should it be snug & difficult to move? I'm not familiar with this configuration, so I want to make sure this is not the area of pressure loss before I put it all back together.
4) Before I pull that discharge tube out of there as well to inspect and replace any orings, how is it actually connected & how do you remove it without damaging it? Should I even bother?

Thanks for help! Jim
 
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#2 ·
A pinched o ring on the icp no, is the metal on the screen a brass color or metal color, if it is brass then it is the hpop, mine was the same way screen had brass on it, screen was good so i cleand it with carb cleaner and put it back on replaced hpop every thing is fine. With 350psi cranking there is definitly a bad pump. As far as the stc fitting yes it is loose just swivel it up and put the pump in and fire it up. There is a tool that looks like a hydraulic release for the ford slave cylinder
OIL LINE DISCONNECT TOOL - FORD 6.0L 3478 | eBay
 
#3 ·
Ok...so brass would be the pump then....I will check to see if it is magnetic today because I can't tell by looknig at it...

So at 350psi, you think it's gotta be the pump then? Hoping that will be it and nothing with the injectors.

I already ordered a new IPR, so guess that will get replaced anyway....but that's ok...because it's not easy to get to these and I already tore it all down.

Glad to hear the discharge tube should be loose...I've seen some recomendations to replace the discharge tube and the cover, but I'm not wanting to do that it if it is still good....

Did you order a Ford replacement pump or go for an aftermarket?
 
#4 ·
ok....the metal on the ipr screen ... almost all not magnetic. There were only 2 specs that were, the rest was not....but hard to say still if it was brass or what it was....it was hard, and black....so still thinking brass from the pump. Let me know what you think about stock or aftermarket pumps....have to buy a pump Monday for sure....my truck has been down way too long :mad:

Thanks again!
 
#5 ·
Those pieces if they were brass would look like brass(copper) colored. That may be pieces of plastic from the oil sump screen. The fitting that swivels has an o-ring that could be damaged in some way, hard to say.
If you want to check it, and still have the two wrenches that come with a die grinder the smaller one works pretty good as a disconnect tool. Altho there are only a couple of angels it will fit.
 
#8 ·
Ok...thanks everyone. I will put air to it tomorrow and post back with results. IPR is on order, will get HPOP Monday....all goes well I will have my truck on the road again by next weekend! If you need pics of anything torn down, more than happy to post them here...just let me know what.
 
#11 ·
If you are in there, replace the discharge tube anyways. That fitting should be snugginsh, not loose and wobbly.
 
#12 ·
you might consider replacing the cover. EXACT SAME SITUATION. replaced the pump and not the cover. truck died on me again and after gettin back in there today i see the cover is now rubbing through the j tube and actually put enough pressure on it to blow the dischrge o ring. I had only 50 psi cranking and no start after it died on me goin down the road. I dont know if a new tube would save you from this trouble or if you need a cover too. either way the pump must be a touch different than the old one.
 
#13 ·
Thanks - I decided not to break into it....the feedback I got was it is supposed to be loose so I figured one less thing to mess with.

I gotta tell you, this truck is a PITA to work on if you leave the cab on. Every single thing is hard to get to, makes you stretch and twist in ways that just aren't right.

I got it back together today...finally! Good news and bad news though. Good news is it starts & runs. Bad news is there is a loud hissing sound that is louder than the turbo wine....I suspect I did not get the turbo lined up right on the downpipe....so pissed....that damn thing took me 1.5 hours to not get it right! Now, my starter is bad too. It grinds & spins. I just can't win with this truck.

I saw a youtube video saying to use a ratchet strap to pull the downpipe in and line it up before putting on the clamp. Guess that is tomorrows after work project. Wish I would have seen that first.

Ford wants $413 just for the starter. I'm thinking of putting an aftermarket starter on....is this a bad idea? Advanced Auto or Carquest? Ebay has them too for under $100.

So dam frustrated....I've only put 1100 miles on this truck since I got it, & already have replaced batteries, PCM, HPOP, IPR, four tows, now a starter too. Is this worst case here...I mean my God...I've never had this much trouble before. I love this truck but not enough to keep this up...

Sorry for the rant.....I feel better.:tard:

Let me know if I'm on the righ track with the downpipe and any advise on the starter you can give...I plan to finish this up tomorrow (I hope)
 
#14 ·
Just loosen the turbo to where you have some play with it and then tighten down your up pipe then tighten back down your turbo


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#15 ·
Buy cheap. I really doubt the one from ford would last longer than four of the ones on EBAY or just one for that matter. Sorry about all of your trouble. I think some of your expenses came from misdiagnoses or you really do have pretty ****ty luck. My downpipe is aftermarket and lines up pretty easily so I cant help you there. You using a reinstall kit when you put it back on?
 
#16 · (Edited)
I will assume you mean you didn't align the turbo UP-PIPE (or y-pipe), since it is an extremely common mistake made by rookies, during re-install. I've probably posted it numerous times, but I'll post it again. DO NOT tighten the marmon clamp, thinking that it will bring y-pipe into alignment with the turbo. You need to align the two mating surfaces together FIRST, before you tighten the clamp.

You must be of a larger size and girth, to be complaining about how tight it is to work on this engine. All I can say is, if you think your F-Series is bad, try changing out a set of coolers on an E-Series van. You should see the battle scars on my chest after attacking one of those, when I take off my shirt. And I'm a pretty skinny guy.
 
#17 ·
Any tips on how to mount the new discharge tube to the HPOP?

The new tube seems just a tad too short and didn't seem to want to tighten down all the way. I ended up breaking the head off one of the bolts due to the back pressure caused by the offset fit of the discharge tube.

Should I attach to the HPOP first vs. swiveling it down onto the HPOP?
 
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