Ok, I want to delete my egr but I'm still under factory warranty. What I want to do is be able to delete my egr but put it back to stock if I need any warranty work. Obviously I want to delete my egr to prevent any problems, but I need to still be able to return to stock when I want to. My question is, Are there any delete kits that I could take in and out without replacing my manifold? Or should I just go with a full manifold delete kit and keep my existing manifold and swap back and forth. Also approximately how long would it take me to delete my egr with these kits? Thanks.
Well what I'm saying is I'd "delete" the delete kit if I needed warranty work. My question is how difficult would it be to do? I can swap my turbo back to stock, my ficm, install my cat and muffler, reprogram back to stock in probably little over an hour and take it to the dealer if I need work done. I just wonder how much more time it would be to take the egr delete on and off and if it's even possible...
Easiest thing to do is just get the block off plate from River City Diesel. It goes between the up-pipe and egr cooler. It just blocks off the exhaust gases from going into the egr cooler. From the outside it looks factory but still functions like a delete. Only thing about that kit is it doesnt prevent your egr cooler from springing a leak internally and blowing coolant into your intake :doh:...
If you just want the egr to stop flowin I would just get the blocking plate...its like $15. Its a lot of work and a huge pain to have to return it all back to stock. And like previously stated Im also a tech at a Benz dealer in florida and its pretty easy to see when things have been tampered with....hate to see ya not get those expensive PSD parts covered.
I would say a 3-4 the hardest part is swappin the up pipe but once you have had the bolts on the up pipe off once then it shouldn't be all that bad. If u delete the egr cooler then that should elemanate the biggest concern for goin back to the dealer anyway!!
Is that uppipe tough because the location? Any good ratchet wrenches work good for that job? Any recommended tools for that other than some extensions. You guys use 1/4" or 3/8" drive for these components?
The bottom bolts are pretty simple. Its the top bolts you will have trouble with. The heat shield can be bent around so you can get there but still rough. Mine weren't real bad to get loose but I know people that have ben in the mud a lot that had a hard time getting the top ones loose and they cut them off reccomend wd-40 or something like it and let soak a while. New bolts from ford won't be cheap either!!
i can tell you being a ford mechanic even if returned it back to stock all the parts you put on wouldnt match the rest of the engine compartment . we would question it anyway . we isnt the stupidist people out there , it ticks me off when people try to cover up the mods they did and act like we cant fiqure it out . thats what we are payed and trained to do, thats my own personal rant soory to tick anyone off and dont take offense to it .
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
5.4M posts
265.8K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Ford F-series owners and enthusiasts with a Power Stroke diesel engine. Come join the discussion about performance, bulletproofing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!