Long story so sit back and grab the popcorn cause it's a good one. Stick with me because I've had just about every problem this truck has to offer in a very short time and something special I am currently dealing with that could get much worse. I'm hoping to have you guys help me with. I bought this truck with 92,000 or so not knowing too much about the 6.4 and no time to do any research because of a job. I couldn't get financed for a 7.3 and I needed 3/4 ton or bigger, diesel, and a long box for my job and this one was a good deal. I think I'm starting to see why now. All work was done by yours truly so please ask questions if you'd like and I'll see what I can do. Not too many pics. Lost phone when job wanted it back...
First. I got to experience death wobble. That was fun... Started with stabilizer shocks and a tie rod end, no change. Then replaced the other tie rod ends and sent a prayer to the man upstairs. We have all heard this before. Took care of the drag link, new shocks, ball joints and a brand new set of tires for a real pretty penny but it fixed my issue. Thought I was in the clear after that." Wanted to recover from this blow and hurry up and get the egr/dpf delete. Googled every question or problem and each one I have googled 100 different ways. So when fuel mileage went down to about 7 mpg, white smoke, no boost. Drained oil for second time since dealership screwed me. Changed about 250 miles after initial purchase. 15 qt sump capacity and I drained about 20 qts. I worked for an oil company with a damn good product proven by analysis. I sent my sample in and sure enough <10% fuel dilution and wear counts thru the roof
i had the truck scanned by the local go to guy and had zero engine codes and injectors tested normal but he told me to check for leaking lines, bad o-rings you know the drill and then he blamed the egr/dpf for the fuel dilution. I know it sprays on the 7th and 8th and excess gets by the rings and into the crank. I also know about the dpf filter getting boogered up with soot and problems with egr valve but 5 qts is more than the egr valve so I kept digging. Pulled a car fax on my truck come to find out the previous owner never serviced but luckily enough when he did it was logged at a dealership over on the west side of Washington st. Water in fuel come to mind for anyone? Well it should because he had to get a Hpfp replaced at 40,000 miles.
First steps I suppose with fuel in system caused by at least a couple things was an egr/dpf delete since its the first on everyones to do list or should be if your state allows it. I got a screaming deal from Rudys on a mini maxx tuner w display, intake elbow and block off plates and a 5" flo pro exhaust. All of these jobs have been done cab-on and I actually invented a couple new cuss words never before heard. For the egr-coolers: once degas bottle is off the wheel well is key. I actually removed my tire and got it out of my way jacking it up a bit helped give me a little more room to get pissed off and throw things but it wasn't too bad I went with a 3/8 breaker bar and cut out a hold in a cheater pipe for the handle to fit thru for the cooler to up pipe. A Modified wrench trick I guess but the company I worked for has a penetrant that is like pb blaster on crack. Came off real quick. Ended up cutting out up pipes later for turbo removal and my buddy is a machinest so we are fabbing up the same thing I've seen other guys post and going to just tap the ebp sensor straight into the up pipe. *side note. Interested in the 6.0 exhaust manifold conversion but can't get off topic because this fuel problem is trying to ruin my life due to the loss of my job and no money, time or options plus the big fat truck payment and all the other bills everyone deals with I need to figure something out. If I fix the truck I get my job back no issues. Next I pulled the turbos. The back bolts for those up pipes still suck *** but I ended up getting the bolts off. Stripped one pretty good and just welded a nut onto it and got it off that way. I think I used a combination of wratchet wrench, 3/8 breaker bar and another pipe that had a bit of a bend to it for space issues and then a good ol fashion box end wrench and another wrench on top of it. Got the turbo on the ground. Don't try and lift the bastard yourself. Even if you can lol I believe you but that's a heavy MF i went an got the neighbor and had a six pack in my hand. Works every time. Turbo was severely oil coked. Dug into it and my nozzle ring assembly was smoked. Almost like someone melted it on purpose. Uhm the nozzle ring assembly has a 6mm 12pt socket to remove the u-clips that rotate to open and close the veins. No a 6.5mm 6pt won't work and I tried every standard size even somewhat close because I had all those sizes but some *** munch walked off with my one 12 pt 6mm. Three auto parts stores and nobody had one. Anyways plan on purchasing chra to replace the guts my housing were okay but too much damage to rebuild myself. Spturboost is an awesome site not real popular from the research I have done but Kevin is awesome. Explained to me how the system works more in depth and its shortcomings. Going with a 360 degree thrust bearing instead of the 270. (Common failure point) and upgrading to their billet wheels. About 862.99$ for both CHRAs upgraded. Rock auto was like 60$ cheaper I think for bone stock reman CHRAs and they were one of the most affordable I had found.
As of right now I have the hp pump sitting there in the back of the engine flipping me off haven't taken it off because the I will have access to a trailer and a hoist for about 2-3 hours for one day cause a guy owes me one and I don't want to waste my chance. I have the mounting assembly for the pump, hardline and o-rings for the injectors and could get the lower fuel pump for about 169.96$ and injectors with line for 239.95$ each. both without an upfront core charge. I'll kinda try to list off symptoms and you guys tell me what you think.
fuel filter on frame rail when pulled after initial purchase had weird patterns almost like a cheetah. Non oem of course which is most likely where this started. I replaced filter & cap with oem. The Fuel/water separator was plugged up and wouldn't drain. Diving head first thru forums I found someone who had the same issue on the plugged up part so I pulled mine cleaned it out real nice. It had a thick almost gel like bacteria build up (Google an image if you haven't seen it yet) and went to ford for the install kit. I got two things to stress if you want to do this.
1.) you need to kit the gasket stretches and it's a *****. I thought I could maybe make it work cause someone posted they made it work. It doesn't just buy the part and save yourself the trouble.
2. Pay attention to how the dtrm goes into the housing I found the diagram on the 6.4 powerstroke bible. I have it in my books on the iPhone
There is also rust on outsides of the fuel rails and a little bit inside fuel bowl. I know the procedure. Complete fuel system. Both pumps, all lines, scrub both fuel bowl and tanks, fuel rail and probably injectors. My truck wasn't running right but it was still running. No missing, never once failed to start, never died on me while I was driving. I had an ic boot pop off twice while driving. I knew my turbos were probably going to be bad because I had very little boost pressure and the best video to explain what the noise sounded like was a YouTube video titled "powerstroke turbo howl" nothing else quite fit the bill. Idled a little bit rough but it was also constantly on regen or trying to get me to go fast enough for the bastard the turn on again which is why I'm stuck here. Any help or advice on where to go on this one would be appreciated. Moses is a cold MF during this time of year and if I don't fix it now the truck will sit all winter or I will be working in 5 min incrementents and I do not have a garage big enough. Outside with rust and water in system plus winter weather and then thinking about the 24,000 psi combination makes me sick.
Holy **** I just finished and went back through to see what I had done. I'm sorry I just kinda started typing and didn't stop until I was done I suppose
Symptoms
First. I got to experience death wobble. That was fun... Started with stabilizer shocks and a tie rod end, no change. Then replaced the other tie rod ends and sent a prayer to the man upstairs. We have all heard this before. Took care of the drag link, new shocks, ball joints and a brand new set of tires for a real pretty penny but it fixed my issue. Thought I was in the clear after that." Wanted to recover from this blow and hurry up and get the egr/dpf delete. Googled every question or problem and each one I have googled 100 different ways. So when fuel mileage went down to about 7 mpg, white smoke, no boost. Drained oil for second time since dealership screwed me. Changed about 250 miles after initial purchase. 15 qt sump capacity and I drained about 20 qts. I worked for an oil company with a damn good product proven by analysis. I sent my sample in and sure enough <10% fuel dilution and wear counts thru the roof
i had the truck scanned by the local go to guy and had zero engine codes and injectors tested normal but he told me to check for leaking lines, bad o-rings you know the drill and then he blamed the egr/dpf for the fuel dilution. I know it sprays on the 7th and 8th and excess gets by the rings and into the crank. I also know about the dpf filter getting boogered up with soot and problems with egr valve but 5 qts is more than the egr valve so I kept digging. Pulled a car fax on my truck come to find out the previous owner never serviced but luckily enough when he did it was logged at a dealership over on the west side of Washington st. Water in fuel come to mind for anyone? Well it should because he had to get a Hpfp replaced at 40,000 miles.
First steps I suppose with fuel in system caused by at least a couple things was an egr/dpf delete since its the first on everyones to do list or should be if your state allows it. I got a screaming deal from Rudys on a mini maxx tuner w display, intake elbow and block off plates and a 5" flo pro exhaust. All of these jobs have been done cab-on and I actually invented a couple new cuss words never before heard. For the egr-coolers: once degas bottle is off the wheel well is key. I actually removed my tire and got it out of my way jacking it up a bit helped give me a little more room to get pissed off and throw things but it wasn't too bad I went with a 3/8 breaker bar and cut out a hold in a cheater pipe for the handle to fit thru for the cooler to up pipe. A Modified wrench trick I guess but the company I worked for has a penetrant that is like pb blaster on crack. Came off real quick. Ended up cutting out up pipes later for turbo removal and my buddy is a machinest so we are fabbing up the same thing I've seen other guys post and going to just tap the ebp sensor straight into the up pipe. *side note. Interested in the 6.0 exhaust manifold conversion but can't get off topic because this fuel problem is trying to ruin my life due to the loss of my job and no money, time or options plus the big fat truck payment and all the other bills everyone deals with I need to figure something out. If I fix the truck I get my job back no issues. Next I pulled the turbos. The back bolts for those up pipes still suck *** but I ended up getting the bolts off. Stripped one pretty good and just welded a nut onto it and got it off that way. I think I used a combination of wratchet wrench, 3/8 breaker bar and another pipe that had a bit of a bend to it for space issues and then a good ol fashion box end wrench and another wrench on top of it. Got the turbo on the ground. Don't try and lift the bastard yourself. Even if you can lol I believe you but that's a heavy MF i went an got the neighbor and had a six pack in my hand. Works every time. Turbo was severely oil coked. Dug into it and my nozzle ring assembly was smoked. Almost like someone melted it on purpose. Uhm the nozzle ring assembly has a 6mm 12pt socket to remove the u-clips that rotate to open and close the veins. No a 6.5mm 6pt won't work and I tried every standard size even somewhat close because I had all those sizes but some *** munch walked off with my one 12 pt 6mm. Three auto parts stores and nobody had one. Anyways plan on purchasing chra to replace the guts my housing were okay but too much damage to rebuild myself. Spturboost is an awesome site not real popular from the research I have done but Kevin is awesome. Explained to me how the system works more in depth and its shortcomings. Going with a 360 degree thrust bearing instead of the 270. (Common failure point) and upgrading to their billet wheels. About 862.99$ for both CHRAs upgraded. Rock auto was like 60$ cheaper I think for bone stock reman CHRAs and they were one of the most affordable I had found.
As of right now I have the hp pump sitting there in the back of the engine flipping me off haven't taken it off because the I will have access to a trailer and a hoist for about 2-3 hours for one day cause a guy owes me one and I don't want to waste my chance. I have the mounting assembly for the pump, hardline and o-rings for the injectors and could get the lower fuel pump for about 169.96$ and injectors with line for 239.95$ each. both without an upfront core charge. I'll kinda try to list off symptoms and you guys tell me what you think.
fuel filter on frame rail when pulled after initial purchase had weird patterns almost like a cheetah. Non oem of course which is most likely where this started. I replaced filter & cap with oem. The Fuel/water separator was plugged up and wouldn't drain. Diving head first thru forums I found someone who had the same issue on the plugged up part so I pulled mine cleaned it out real nice. It had a thick almost gel like bacteria build up (Google an image if you haven't seen it yet) and went to ford for the install kit. I got two things to stress if you want to do this.
1.) you need to kit the gasket stretches and it's a *****. I thought I could maybe make it work cause someone posted they made it work. It doesn't just buy the part and save yourself the trouble.
2. Pay attention to how the dtrm goes into the housing I found the diagram on the 6.4 powerstroke bible. I have it in my books on the iPhone
There is also rust on outsides of the fuel rails and a little bit inside fuel bowl. I know the procedure. Complete fuel system. Both pumps, all lines, scrub both fuel bowl and tanks, fuel rail and probably injectors. My truck wasn't running right but it was still running. No missing, never once failed to start, never died on me while I was driving. I had an ic boot pop off twice while driving. I knew my turbos were probably going to be bad because I had very little boost pressure and the best video to explain what the noise sounded like was a YouTube video titled "powerstroke turbo howl" nothing else quite fit the bill. Idled a little bit rough but it was also constantly on regen or trying to get me to go fast enough for the bastard the turn on again which is why I'm stuck here. Any help or advice on where to go on this one would be appreciated. Moses is a cold MF during this time of year and if I don't fix it now the truck will sit all winter or I will be working in 5 min incrementents and I do not have a garage big enough. Outside with rust and water in system plus winter weather and then thinking about the 24,000 psi combination makes me sick.
Holy **** I just finished and went back through to see what I had done. I'm sorry I just kinda started typing and didn't stop until I was done I suppose
Symptoms