Gauge Install

[Wed Turner]

So today I got around to installing two Autometer gauges that I picked up at Summit. I got a mechanical boost, and an electric fuel pressure. I've got EGT ordered, but it hasn't come in yet. Got everything installed and wired up and checked everything out and my fuel pressure is reading low. When I first crank the truck up, it jumps around between 36 and 44. Then it seems to settle in at a pretty constant 38 psi. It does move around some when I hop on it, but the most I see is about 42 psi. I haven't had a chance to check out what it reads on a WOT pull yet. I checked the power source to make sure it was getting good consistent power and according the the volt meter it's very steady. I installed the blue spring when I first got the truck just as a precaution. I figured it couldn't hurt anything. Now my question is, do you guys really think my fuel pressure is that low? I mean, I put down some very respectable numbers on the dyno for a stock truck. I would have thought that if my fuel pressure is as low as it seems, that I wouldn't be able to put down that much power. Any help would be appreciated, I'm a little scared to drive her right now.

[2003kingranch]

its low.
heres mine

idle


wot

6.0 fuel pressure test - YouTube

6.0 fuel pressure test - YouTube

[sargar]

Sorry Wed but it looks like fuel pump time for you. It would be a good idea to screw a mechanical gauge into it to test your sender and gauge but I suspect it is low. Imagine how good the EX would have done at PHP with about 70 psi of pressure!

[Wed Turner]

I've got another sender in my race truck that I'm going to try out when I get a chance. I think there might be some air trapped in there too which is causing it to jump around, but I don't think that it'll make it magically jump another 20+psi.

From what I understand there are two pumps on these trucks, right? One in the tank and then the one with the fuel filter mounted under the drivers door. Should I replace it with a factory one, or should I upgrade. I usually inclined to upgrade if it makes sense. I don't know that it'll really happen, but I'd like to throw a Powermax on this beast one day.

[sargar]

Pump on frame only. The tank only has the float for the gauge and the straw that the poor old pump has to pull fuel through.

Since Matt is so good at talking to people and getting us deals, we need a group buy on fuel sumps. Think about your pump, it is having to do two jobs. It has to pull fuel up, against gravity, to feed the pump and it has to pressurize the fuel and supply the heads.

A fuel sump would cure the gravity problem because it would use gravity to your advantage. I think we all need one. Don't throw yours away, it may be good for a future experiment. What if a fuel sump could help a failing pump by taking some of the load off of it? Somebody's kid could use that as a science fair project.

As far as a replacement goes. OE will work best for a stock replacement. Look at Matt's and Chris' trucks on the dyno....on stock pumps as far as I know. Are you going to tune beyond 1000 ft/lbs?

[HVAC SuperTech]

A stock 7.3 pump will support right at 450 HP. I know a 6.0 pump flows more than a stock 7.3 pump does, so I am assuming that replacing the stocker with a stocker you would be OK, even if you didn't do a fuel sump. If you did a sump, you wouldn't have to have a filter before the pump on a 6.0, but you would need one on a 7.3.

Sent from my Acer Android Tablet

[Wed Turner]

Originally Posted by sargar

As far as a replacement goes. OE will work best for a stock replacement. Look at Matt's and Chris' trucks on the dyno....on stock pumps as far as I know. Are you going to tune beyond 1000 ft/lbs?

In an ideal world I'd really like to get just over 500/1100 out of this truck with a Powermax turbo. In reality, that may or may not happen so I guess I'll just replace it with the factory pump. Found the part number on E-bay, now I've just got to see if I can convince my local Ford to match Tousley's price again. Looks like it shouldn't be too horrible to replace either.

I'd definitely be in for a group buy on a sump. Though I'm pretty positive that I'd have to drop the tank on my Excursion to install it. The one from XDP says you can do it without dropping the tank, but I bet they are figuring you have a truck and are expecting you to take off the bed. That's what I did when I wanted to change fuel pumps in my Ranger. Made things so much easier. Also thinking of maybe getting Trusted Performance's stage I fuel lines.

[sargar]

There are some no drop sumps out there. I know Bean offers one. Chris at TSD has a sump but I know nothing about it. If you drop the tank go ahead and cut the fill and vent necks off flush with the inside of the tank. Isn't yours 2WD? If so fuel pump should be easy with no front shaft to work around.

What you got for a race truck?

[Wed Turner]

It just hit me why the inner ring was made into a horse shoe shape. That's the part that allows you not to drop the tank. Interesting. Sorry, took a few hours and some sleep to figure that one out. Mine is 2wd.

Race truck is/was a 97 Ford Ranger. It has the 4.0 ohv engine and a Vortech V2 supercharger on it. Best time was a 13.98 but the poor old girl hasn't run in 2 years.

[Wed Turner]

Got the HFCM in my hands now. Love the parts guys at Alan Vigil Ford in Fayetteville. They didn't match Tousley this time, but they saved me $100 and had it in stock. You can't beat that.