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post #1 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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New diesel owner with some basic questions

Hey guys,

Just got my first diesel about 2 months ago and after figuring some stuff out on my own i figured i'd post here with some of the stuff i couldn't figure out (and my idiot friends who all give me differen't answers). Now bear with me guys i know some of these are common knowledge but i'm still learning...

1. Can't really feel a difference between 4 Hi and 4 Low when i use it...so what is the difference lol.

2. What's the proper way to engage my 4 wheel drive? I usually stop, put the truck in neutral, then reach down and shift that lever into neutral, then back up to 4 Hi. I'm not really sure of the right way though.

3. My buddy got his Dodge 1500 stuck the other day and we couldn't figure out the best way to pull it out. As in should i use 2WD, 4 Hi, or 4 Low. I just used 2WD and it got him right out but that might have been luck. So for future reference, what should i be using?

4. What's the fastest i can drive in 2WD with my front Hubs still locked?

5. I got my truck used and the guy wasn't sure of the exact lift, he just guessed it was a 6inch Pro Comp. I can't entirely tell...any thing i should be looking at specifically to get the exact lift?

6. Along with my question above, what's the largest size tire...diameter wise, i can put on without having to shave down anything?

7. I have 96,000 miles on my truck as of now, i want to get at least 320,000 before i even think of getting another. Just wondering besides regular oil changes, what are some other things i can do to increase the life of my 7.3? I run Diesel Kleen (Gray bottle) every tank BTW.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. You guys are great!!!

2000 F250 XLT SB SC Auto
6" Lift, 37" BFG KM2's, 18" V-Tec Raptors, DIY Intake, Muffler Delete,
Cortex 1950 (), Kenwood Stereo/Amp/Speakers, Extra Cup Holders!! ( )




115,000 miles and rolling strong
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 05:57 PM
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Well for 4 hi you can shift on the fly just don't be over 15 mph. For low park the truck put in neutral then 4 low. You will notice a big diff. between low and high. Low will have lots of torque. As for towing for rescue use 4 low and only lock the diffs if absolutely necessary, thats if you have auto and lock on your hubs. Never go at high speeds with the diffs locked. 4 hi is sufficent for snow and ice. If you are on a mud hole go 4 low.

2001 7.3 SuperDuty Lariat

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post #3 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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My bud told me if i don't lock my hubs (manual btw) that all the power being sent to my front axel while it's in 4WD won't be going anywhere if they're not locked. Then again he's just as clueless as me. Better clarification please?

2000 F250 XLT SB SC Auto
6" Lift, 37" BFG KM2's, 18" V-Tec Raptors, DIY Intake, Muffler Delete,
Cortex 1950 (), Kenwood Stereo/Amp/Speakers, Extra Cup Holders!! ( )




115,000 miles and rolling strong
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 06:03 PM
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1 When going into lo range make sure you are in neutral or park. It should be about twice as slow in lo range
2 You can go from 2 to 4 high in gear. No need to go to neutral
3 If you need wheel speed to spin the tires clean use 4 high. If you want to go slow and keep things more controled used lo.
4 Any speed is ok with the hubs locked in 2wheel. You will be spinning the axles in the front housing but that is ok. Dodges do not even have hubs to unlock. They always spin.
5 Contact 4wheel parts. They are a dealer for the pro comp parts and will be able to identify what you have.
6 I have no exp. with that so I have no idea. 6"~ 38s or so?
7 as the miles increase so will the maintenance I would change all fluids and repack the wheel bearings. Then just keep an eye on everything. JJ

04 F-550 CC 6.0 4x4 cab n chassis 4.88 XLT 193K
Money maker with utility bed.
97 F-350 CC 7.3 ZF-5 4x4 4.10 324K
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shooter04 View Post
My bud told me if i don't lock my hubs (manual btw) that all the power being sent to my front axel while it's in 4WD won't be going anywhere if they're not locked. Then again he's just as clueless as me. Better clarification please?
Correct. If the hubs are not locked in the front will not be pulling. JJ

04 F-550 CC 6.0 4x4 cab n chassis 4.88 XLT 193K
Money maker with utility bed.
97 F-350 CC 7.3 ZF-5 4x4 4.10 324K
Moves my stuff around.
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 06:06 PM
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1. 4 low is just like it sound. Its a lower gear ratio, should creep along compared to 4 hi

2. just put trans in neurtal and pull back into 4x4, can also do on the move but i never do.

3. pullin out people is all about preference and doing what it takes. If using 4x4 i use low side.

4. With the hubs locked in but 4x4 not engaged everything just free wheels. no real max speed but will lower your MPGs

5. What do you mean by "exact fit"? Are you trying to find the brand, size or both?

6. If it is a 6" lift im guessing you could run around a 35-38" tire with no rub issues

7. Keep the fuel filters changed, tranny fluid/filters changed. Tell your buddies to find someone else to pull them out! lol

Hope some of this helps ya, im sure others will chime in with different answers than mine but theres my 2 cents for what its worth.

Congrats on the new truck!
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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This might be an obvious question but i just don't get it,

Why does that lever down by my feet for putting my tuck into 4WD have a neutral position on it? If my truck is already in neutral what does that do? Put it in...omega neutral???

2000 F250 XLT SB SC Auto
6" Lift, 37" BFG KM2's, 18" V-Tec Raptors, DIY Intake, Muffler Delete,
Cortex 1950 (), Kenwood Stereo/Amp/Speakers, Extra Cup Holders!! ( )




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post #8 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 06:20 PM
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when you are towing the truck, say with a tow truck with the front lifted off the ground. You put the transfer case in neutral to disengage the connection between your trans and transfer case. This reduces heat build up in auto transmissions during tow. Could also be done when pulling behind RV etc...
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dieseltorkin View Post
when you are towing the truck, say with a tow truck with the front lifted off the ground. You put the transfer case in neutral to disengage the connection between your trans and transfer case. This reduces heat build up in auto transmissions during tow. Could also be done when pulling behind RV etc...
Your saying when i run my truck with that lever in neutral it completely disengages my front axel?

2000 F250 XLT SB SC Auto
6" Lift, 37" BFG KM2's, 18" V-Tec Raptors, DIY Intake, Muffler Delete,
Cortex 1950 (), Kenwood Stereo/Amp/Speakers, Extra Cup Holders!! ( )




115,000 miles and rolling strong
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-12-2009, 06:31 PM
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If you put that lever in neutral, it disconnects the transfer case from the drive shafts. You will go nowhere with the transfer case in neutral, unless you are being towed or rolling down a hill.

06 F-250XLT FX4. AccuFab Elbow, MBRP 4" exhaust w/ no kitty, AMSOIL/Injen Intake, IssPro Gauges in overhead mount, SCT X3 Tuned by Innovative, Edge Insight in dash pod, BYPASS OIL FILTER, ZooDad mod,

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