TANK IS TEACHING,...anyone wanna learn?

[TANK'S 250]

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PART NUMBERS:

99-04






05-07

Locking hub: # PPA-GF33



08

08 Diff cover-8C3Z-4033-A
You will need new bolts to fit them on an earlier model however, as the bolts on the stamped steel diff covers arent long enough.
Bolts stainless hex head 5/16 18, 1 1/4 inch long.

[TANK'S 250]

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GEAR RATIO CHART



NOTE: This chart is based on engine rpm at 65 mph with the transmission in a 1:1 gear ratio (Third with a three-speed manual, Fourth with a four-speed manual, or Third with an Automatic). Remember, the actual rpm indicated in the chart will be slightly higher (between 100 and 300 rpm) on vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission. This is due to the slip present in an auto transmission's torque converter.


Also needed to take into consideration is, the WEIGHT and ROLLING RESISTANCE of the LARGER tires.

[TANK'S 250]

TRANSMISSION GEAR RATIOS 05+

The TorqShift 5-speed auto

1 st ....3.11 : 1
2nd.....2.22 : 1
3rd......1.55 : 1
4th..........1 : 1
5th......0.71 : 1

It also utilizes an alternate 4th gear, overdrive on 2nd gear of the 3 speed automatic component (0.72 x 1.55), that is 1.10:1 that is used under cold start conditions to aid engine and transmission warm up.


The 6-speed manual

LOW........... 5.79 : 1
1st..............3.30 : 1
2nd............ 2.10 : 1
3rd............. 1.30 : 1
4th................. 1 : 1
5th..............0.72 : 1

[TANK'S 250]

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BUSHWACKER CUT-OUTS


OK....here we go.

I special ordered my truck, and I got it straight from the plant,..brand new...

A month before I received the truck, I already had a plan,...I wanted NO lift, 36's and Bushwacker cut-outs....so I had the parts in the garage,...before I even owned the truck.

My wife told me I had to wait a week,...before I dove into the project,...I lasted 6 days, before I started cutting.

Now...for the record...I have NEVER modified any vehicle before this point,....so everything I have done to my truck up to now,..has been my first time....

So... if I can do it....anyone can do it.

First off...have someone help you...it's easier,..they won't have to do much,..if anything they'll be there for moral support,...and to fetch you beer.


Things you need,...

1. Standard garage tools....wrenches, sockets, utility knife, screw drivers,..etc
2. Nibbler....to cut the fenders...NOT A SAWZALL!!!!!...
3. Sawzall...to cut the bumpers
4. heat gun...to custom mold the inner fender well liners if needed
5. 3lb hammer...short handle
6. misc...tape, paper, rags, sharpie, tape measurer....and maybe a grinder(make things easier).



stock vs 36's (no lift)





This is how much room I had, trying to stuff 36's under the stock suspension,...obviously something had to go....turning radious was....ummmm....yeah.....ZERO...lol






Now the nerve-racking part....like I said...I had never done this before,..so I was cautious.

They send FULL directions and a TEMPLATE with the Bushwackers...so don't worry.

The first fender took about 4 hours,.,...I cut a little,...had a beer, cut a little , had another beer,...etc etc etc

In this pic,...I was no where near the "actual" cut line...I was just testing the nibbler, and getting used to it at this point....so don't freak out...lol




After doing the testing,..and knowing what I know now...IT IS VIRTUALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO SCREW THIS UP....there is soooooo much room for error...a monkey could do this entire thing blind folded.


OK....here are some pointers.

tape off to prevent accidental scratches.




I also used HENRY 208 Roofing Mastic(brush on roof tar) to treat the cut edges....I HIGHLY recommend you do the same....3 years...not one spot of rust...do it.

Don't worry...the flares completely cover it.





As for the bumper...you have to do that last,..and you have to "eye-ball" a good line to cut,...use a grease pencil to draw a line that you'll want to cut....try to follow the arch of the flares...I didn't get mine exactly how I wanted it....but I made my own bumper...so it doesn't matter about matching once you put an aftermarket bumper on.

The flares come with a rubber edge molding, that goes between the flare and the fender,...I had some left over,... so I glued it to the cut area on the bumper.




Finished product:







Before:





After:




Schrapnel:



I think I covered everything,...hope so.... but if ya need anything else...let me know.

[Rodslinger]

Tag..........

[UNBROKEN]

Originally Posted by TANK'S 250

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EGR CLEANING AND REMOVAL



#1...this is an electrical part...I have to advise to disconnect both batteries...no point in taking a chance with your electrical system.
#2...get one of these:



It's the worlds cheapest gear puller...they can be picked up at any Autozone, for under $10, and they are good to have around. Since most of us don't have access to the Ford puller...this will work...you just have to get creative with it.

Here's your target:



You can see the plug on the EGR...obviously, unplug that.
I also had to remove my boost gauge line.
I removed the plug that goes to the unused (in my truck) controller for the throttle plate thing. I just did this for easier access .

Remove the (2) 8mm bolts out from the ears on the bottom of the EGR valve.
Both mine were different...I don't know if thats the norm...but I made sure to put them back into the holes they came out of.

Now..rotate the EGR until you can get the tabs on the puller onto the ears on the valve.
I had to use a pair of Channel Locks to do this.
Now put the puller in place...something like this:



Now is where I had to get creative. Since this is NOT the correct type of puller...you obviously do not tighten the center bolt...if you do that...you'll destroy the EGR and won't even get it out.
What I did was put a small pry bar under the center of the puller and GENTLY pried it against the intake elbow. I put a folded up towel between the bar and the elbow for some cushion...you definitely don't want to break that elbow.

Anyway...I just put some pressure on it and it popped right out.
Nothing to it.

Now the nasty part.......here's what I found:



Gets kinda ugly in there huh?
Well...when you get it out...just go to town with a can or two of carb cleaner. I also used a small interior cleaning brush to get into the tight spots.
Once you get the crap out you can pull the valve itself out and clean the valve face and the seat. Actually, there are 2 valves and seats on one shaft....you'll see.
I guess the cleaning part is a no brainer...just clean till the black crap is gone.
After I got done...I had this left:



Once you have it looking like that...put it all back together.
Re-connect the batteries and you're done.
It takes about an hour to do.

Some things to note:
Be careful...you don't wanna break this stuff....it's expensive....
There are 2 o-rings on the valve....be careful not to nick or damage those.....new O-Rings (kit number is 3C3Z-9P455-AB)...if needed
You'll notice on the last pic...there is a gasket on the valve that seals it to the intake.....do not damage this. If you do...it won't seal right and hot, pressurized exhaust gases will shoot out into your engine compartment.
Again..I am NOT a diesel tech...use this info for your own good and at your own risk.
Don't blame me if you break something.

Since I wrote that...I can send you the pics to edit in if you like.
That was what...4 years ago ?
Man...we had just really started to mod the 6.0's then.....I still HAD an EGR. LOL

[SuperStroked]

Originally Posted by UNBROKEN

Since I wrote that...I can send you the pics to edit in if you like.
That was what...4 years ago ?
Man...we had just really started to mod the 6.0's then.....I still HAD an EGR. LOL

my how things have changed....

[ductit]

That is a ton of GREAT information. Thank you

[Me2000]

Pinion nut............................................... ..220-280 ft-lb

I am pretty sure that is not correct. When I replaced my pinion seal, the pinion nut was tightened until there was a certain amount of drag on the bearing. It wasn't anywhere near 200 foot pounds.